发觉每种原料的美好:用时间淬炼出的惊艳好滋味 You’ll never look at a plate of food the same way again

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人]

Chef Shawn Shum
Current: Executive Chef, Rowan & Parsley
Previous: La Brasserie, The Fullerton Bay Hotel (Singapore)
* BATTLE OF THE CHEFS, Asian Food Festival 2016 – Main Course II (Beef) – Silver
– Main Course I (poultry) – Bronze
Currently residing in Johor Bahru, Johor

对于一般烹饪新手来说这特异功能看似遥不可及:发觉每种原料的美好,就地取材加以钻研,想要什么味道就创造什么味道,俨然就是味觉魔法师所能为,但这对善用运用手边食材的 Chef Shawn 来说却总是信手拈来。许多匠心独具的风味如发酵过的糖蜜滋味黑蒜、用虾子匀和提炼的虾油、铁观音茶盐、猪肉香盐,三文鱼皮饼等,每一样调味法宝皆让人目眩,颇有「看山不是山」的境界,眼见为证、初尝鲜后才发现这不愧是用时间才能淬炼出的惊艳好滋味。

Thanks to modern food technology, ingredients are available in many varied and exciting forms. From fermented black gold (garlic), prawn-extract oil, Tieguanyin Oolong tea-infused powder, “pork salt” to crispy salmon skin chips, food will never be the same again with Chef Shawn in the house, with each form having its own distinctive texture, flavour concentration and application possibilities.

敏锐的味觉、对自身专业有所求、热爱关于料理的一切细节,「打从烹调、走出厨房、端上桌、第一口至食毕的时间皆经过精密计算。」Chef Shawn 即使对待微小如调料也坚持自行研发。

From plant to plate, the outdoor landscaped garden at Rowan & Parsley is the source of many organic ingredients that go into his carefully crafted dishes.

在这所被我们誉为土地里长出来的独立美食工作室里,对厨房内场要求极高的 Chef Shawn 如是说道「厨房乃餐厅的心脏,食物里若透过炉具大火烹煮就会产生一股不锈钢铁的余味,这将间接破坏食物的本味,若以大理石间隔开炉具并用长时慢火来创造味道,久煮三至四小时也不会焦糊,滋味更清香均衡。」

More than just a restaurant, but a culinary workshop, Chef Shawn takes pride in designing his own kitchen – the epicentre at which his creativity, inspiration, collaboration and innovation all begin. In addition to being an efficient workspace, the design, look, and feel follows suit in many ways, with the French Cooktop adding consistency and sophistication in the open-exhibition kitchen located within the restaurant. “French cooktops are used to keep dishes warm without altering their flavours or burning them, as certain food can take on a metallic taste after being cooked in metal cookware,” Shawn explains.

综合了各种食材后再将五味平衡,坚持将最好最轻的味道留给味蕾舌尖的记忆,就是 Chef Shawn 的独家技艺。「厨师对于烹调食物的先后次序也需控制得宜,就好比先放盐与后放盐,最终将呈现两种不同的结果。」

Chefs today are at the forefront of the increasing emphasis on flavour layering when designing recipes, with advanced technology adoption and focus on the visual and aromatic aspects of gustatory perception having taken explorations to exciting new frontiers. As Chef Shawn pushes the edges of the flavour envelope, he aspires to create new dishes that will satisfy the demands of an ever more perceptive consumer palette.

踏入了 Rowan & Parsley Food Atelier 这扇门后,门外的喧嚣早已不得而知。这是一所从土地里长出来的建筑吗?大人不禁莞尔一笑,因为一分钟前的车水马龙,仿如上个世纪的事。自然生态里的表与里,既对立而又相生相依,在这里就是最佳注解。就如同费时半年打造的落脚处,你我以为的大门入口竟是厂房的原后门,而后门才是前门。

这家开业已有两年的独立美食工作室,鲜少为自己发声与接受采访,食客到此多为口耳相传特地前来。线上媒体对其褒贬不一的食评或让人踌躇,然而坚信大自然必有其规律的工作室,却屡受旅居於本地的国外人士垂青,西式精致餐点在新山这块茁壮的土地上有其安身立地之所吗?然而,餐饮业的争名逐利,似乎并不存在於 Sam 与 Shawn 的经营字典里。

看官们可点击详阅更多关于 Rowan & Parsley Food Atelier 的美食推荐:土地里长出来的独立美食工作室 Rowan & Parsley – from plant to plate, a greener culinary pasture awaits…

Step into the tall cast-iron gates of Rowan & Parsley Food Atelier for what feels like a secret enchanted garden, a welcome breather from the hectic city surroundings. As we walk up the pathway to the front door of Rowan & Parsley, we passed by small trees, a cluster of long stalks that might be weeds, a few flowers and other assorted greenery along the manicured walkway. What you may not notice is the bushel of soon-to-be fruit buds on the trees. Wild herbs and plants creep around the brickwork, and the purple and red blossoms are actually edible flowers with a sort of sweet spring and summer flavour.

Make no mistake; the restaurant is no stranger to the masses, thanks to the avalanche of online “publicity”, but despite being in operation for nearly two years, Rowan & Parsley is still pretty much an unknown quantity when it comes to a whole new culinary culture that is well ahead of time. It is, therefore, heartening that we now come across a growing minority like Sam and Shawn, who values simplicity and authenticity over sheer gimmicks, and just biding their time to get things (and taste) right. For those who are uninitiated and willing to experiment, it pays to hear their side of the story.

此篇报导同时也已编入此册中的「讲究.不将就」系列中第88页 (限量发行,非卖品。版权所有,翻印必究):杂志大人2017年最新力作出炉啦 -《MENU: Find-dining in Johor Bahru 识食物者为俊杰》now serving…

Following the launch of our latest <MENU>, “Find Dining” in Johor Bahru has never been easier. May we present our “Chef Specials” on Pg 88 for you to savour premium steaks unlike any other… Bon appétit!

[大人爱分享]这是土地里长出来的建筑吗?崇尚自然有其规律的 ROWAN & PARSLEY food atelier 美食工作室堪称新山最有氧份的餐厅,快随大人用力呼吸唤醒味蕾!With sustainability fast…

Posted by MAGistrate 杂志大人 on 25hb Julai 2016

 

ROWAN & PARSLEY Food Atelier

Address: 17, Jalan Cenderai 20, Kawasan Perindustrial Kota Putri, 81750 Masai, Johor.
Tel: +607-382 1760
Business Hours:
Mon – Sun  (11.30am
– 10.30pm) * 4pm – 6pm serve drinks only.
Set Lunch (Mon – Fri, 11.30am – 2.30pm, RM28 nett with 3-course)
Brunch available on Sat & Sun only.
NON-HALAL

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