封存于岁月中的味道:值得等待的干式熟成牛肉滋味 Better with age: the science behind the holy grail of steak!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人]

Chef Sean Lauw
Current:
Executive Chef, The Wine Gallery & Dine
Previous: Trained in London and specialises in modern European cuisine
Born in Johor Bahru, Johor

牛肉要几分熟? 这问题想必是多数人在点选牛肉时需要回答的问题。但如今在新山品尝牛肉时,除了几分熟外你还能选择「牛肉要几天熟?」莫非牛排也像品尝佳酿一般,封存得越久越显醇香?

Food is best served fresh, right? But Chef Sean who specialises in dry aged steaks, begs to differ.

The Gallery Wine & Dine 身为新山第一家推出熟成牛肉的餐厅,咱们当然得请 Chef Sean 为看官们阐述何谓熟成牛肉 「牛肉的熟成方式其实分为湿式与干式两种,其差异在于湿式熟成采用真空包装,而较为传统的干式熟成则将切好的牛肉部位直接储藏在温度、湿度与风速受经验丰富的主厨所监控的冷藏熟成室 (约1-2°C),酵素酶将逐渐释放使牛肉中难以咀嚼的组织分解并嫩化肉质,表层则会随着熟成时间而流失水分及变得干硬,经熟成后的牛肉即会变得酥软甚至有股蓝纹乳酪的味道。」

Reputed to be the only restaurant in Johor Bahru to age their own beef, the special Aged Beef cuts has been receiving raving reviews, and it has certainly lived up to them. The highly precise technique is known as “dry-aging”, where the meat is left to mature for a minimum of 28 days in a climate-controlled space in-store, through a natural stage of tenderising itself to reach the perfect texture and flavour. The process may be lengthy to elevate the premium steak to even greater heights, but Chef Sean does a near-exemplary job, and its ongoing popularity is testament that makes the effort well worth it.

“With wet ageing, the meat is vacuum packed and aged in its own juices, as opposed to dry ageing where it sits on a rack exposed to air,” Sean says. “In dry ageing, there is no protective packaging around the meat, so moisture evaporates from the muscle to create a greater concentration of flavour.”

Chef Sean 随即展示一块已熟成了28天的牛肉,表层确实呈干硬棕红纹理,「Sirloin一般不能熟成太久,28天已很足够; 而和牛则能熟成45至60天。」

由于处理干式熟成牛肉极为耗时与耗资,因此多选用经过精挑的高品质牛肉部位,而油花纹理越多,熟成后的牛肉风味则越佳。一般干式熟成了28天的牛肉在过程中会缩小约20%,熟成得越久,可食用部位则会变得越小,因此价格也随之高昂。 进行烹煮前需将硬化的表层切除 (如图所示),建议点选3分至5分熟才能尝到熟成牛肉最浓郁独特的滋味。

“For cuts such as the T-bone and sirloin (as shown), dry ageing helps bring out the best in their flavour,” Sean shares. “Beef can be aged from a few days to as long as sixty days but twenty-eight days is the standard dry ageing time for us, at a specific level of humidity and temperature (between 1-2°C).”

“During this period, the meat will shrink in size by about 20% due to the loss of moisture and develop a dry crust on its surface. Once the ageing period is complete, we carve away the crust leaving the aged meat which is now juicier and more flavourful.” Sean explains.

这一道熟成了28天的香烤澳洲和牛排只以胡椒与海盐调味 (Special Aged Beef Cuts, Market Price) ,搭以传统棕酱与特调黑椒芥末酱的匀和体、薯片、盐抹番茄及三色咸味深重的海盐:红海盐为辣椒口味,黄海盐为西芹柠檬口味,黑海盐则为黑炭口味。「熟成牛肉的肉质极为出色,嫩中带有嚼劲,实在无需太多的酱料缀饰,顿觉原来美食也能如此被期待,大人咀嚼到脂肪部位时还能尝到一股香气!好吃到极致啊!」

The “dry-aging” results in mouthwatering red meat cuts that burst with umami-rich juices when bitten into, that the steak complements just about anything from the gourmet chips, salted tomato and accompanying homemade special sauce. Out of curiosity, we rub our steak with a dab of naturally flavoured sea salts provided, from a choice of red (jalapeno), yellow (celery) and black (activated charcoal), and voila, the resulting steak tastes even more tender and oh-so-juicy! A wise move indeed…

欲想品尝新山仅此一家的熟成牛肉 (Aged Beef),看官们可点击详阅更多关于 The Gallery Wine & Dine 的美食推荐:视觉与味觉的交汇点,新山滨海繁华景致内的明星美食佳酿 The Gallery Wine & Dine: A fine showcase of JB’s culinary substance & style!

In time to come, how well you like your steak prepared may no longer be measured by the degree of doneness, but also the level of ageing! Whatever your choice of tipple, type of occasion, simply looking for somewhere to take a special friend for a romantic evening or just wanting to treat yourself to a more upscale dining experience, The Gallery Wine & Dine is the perfect place to do just that, and more…

此篇报导同时也已编入《MENU》中的「讲究.不将就」系列第86页 (限量发行,非卖品。版权所有,翻印必究):杂志大人2017年最新力作出炉啦 -《MENU: Find-dining in Johor Bahru 识食物者为俊杰》now serving…

Following the launch of our latest <MENU>, “Find Dining” in Johor Bahru has never been easier. May we present our “Chef Specials” on Pg 86 for you to savour premium steaks unlike any other… Bon appétit!

[星期。五动全城] 据闻这儿拥有全新山只此一家的熟成牛肉 (Aged Beef),大人今日傍晚就为此慕名而来!入夜之后在各式酒饮如威士忌、红酒、香槟、生啤等的伴随下气氛更显热络,大人真的好喜欢 The Gallery Wine & Dine…

Posted by MAGistrate 杂志大人 on 25hb November 2016

 

The Gallery Wine & Dine

Address: Jalan Tengku Petrie 1, Kawasan Strait View, Johor Bahru.
Reservation: +6014-612 8399
Time: Sun – Thurs 4pm – 1am /  Fri – Sat 4pm – 2am

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