备受行内推崇的手冲单品咖啡:感受手与豆子间那不急不缓的互动 Brewing better coffee manually, one cup at a time

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人]

Isaac Loh
Current: Cafe Owner, The Brew Orchestra
* Licensed Q Grader, Specialty Coffee Consultant
* 2014 Malaysian Aeropress Championship – Champion
Born in Johor Bahru, Johor

咖啡的滋味常为人所引述用以回顾人生所经历的每个阶段,或顺遂、或高潮迭起,这也是为何品一杯咖啡总能让人百般滋味在心头。而每一杯手冲咖啡里的酸、甜、苦、涩等细致层次变化,更是好此杯中物者最无法抗拒的迷人之处。

Brewed coffee is hot again, and we’re not talking about press pots. The hand brew, where coffee is pour over by the cup, on demand and by hand, is the new darling of caffeine culture.

从豆子的挑选、磨豆、水温、水质、注水时速等步骤,该如何让知音品尝到手与豆子间那不急不缓的互动,专业咖啡师绝对是风味与余韵的最终决策者。「手冲咖啡其实并没有任何硬性规则,看似简单却也极其考验咖啡师的呈现方式。由于每一个微小的变量因素皆会影响咖啡风味,因此咖啡师一般会根据自身的经验与技巧来做泡法的调整。」

When it comes to making hand-brew coffee, a true enthusiast like Isaac Loh doesn’t settle until he has brought out the best flavour the beans can offer. The process starts with analysing his pour over, tasting for imperfections and noting areas of improvement, followed by small and measured adjustments to his recipe and brew again, and again, until the coffee is near perfect. “The hand-brew method allows us to control the speed of the pour, giving the water more time to come in contact with the grounds and therefore, making a richer and more flavourful brew,” Isaac says.

在新山,Isaac 的手冲单品咖啡备受行内推崇,专注地做咖啡并追求其中最自然的「甜」「干净度」一直是他最在意的事。「没有所谓的捷径,始终都需多作测试、多喝才能累积扎实手冲经验。一般会先做杯评比较,才不至于消耗太多豆子。」 手冲一杯独特的单品咖啡或许只需短短数分钟,却是咖啡师透过日积月累、聚精会神用心练习、闻香、轻啜、慢饮、品味而所出的心血之作。眼见 Isaac 手法娴熟地将水温、水量与计时的各种变化掌控至极致,专注神情下所呈现出的纯净无杂质手冲单品咖啡怎叫人不期待?本身也是 Q Grader 的他说「更重要的是开心地享受过程与咖啡的品质,无需太在乎或比较方式。」

“We take our time producing our coffee, by constantly refining our technique, coffee- to-water ratio, coffee grind, water quality, the contact time between the coffee and water, water temperature and filtering. Done right and with the proper selection of beans, the method will consistently deliver a perfectly extracted, smooth and clean- tasting cup every time,” Isaac explains.

Dedicated to serving only the best coffee brewed from the finest single origin beans and brewing techniques, we know our cup of coffee from Isaac will be a great one.

位处新山百合花园商业区内的 The Brew Orchestra,L型玻璃黑框长窗优雅地区隔开室外的商业气息,车水马龙瞬间化为无声影像。走过长廊推门而入,娴静专注而优雅的氛围宛若乐章序曲徐徐绕耳,尤以顶上那看似竖琴的弦线装置,搭上工业风的灯具后,颇有拨弦之际知音顿时亮起心灯的画面,那不正是大人今日的感觉吗?专注地做咖啡一直是 Isaac 最在意的事。留澳多年,他不讳言 The Brew Orchestra 确实融入了澳洲的咖啡文化,「澳洲毕业后,由于非常喜欢当地的咖啡文化,所以选择留在当地一段日子汲取咖啡文化,之后也到了韩国。」品一杯参赛等级的咖啡在这里毫无难度。

就像大人今日会到访此处,全因之前数回与新山咖啡业者、友人畅聊时,问及他们内心可有自己非常欣赏的好咖啡时,竟不约而同地给了大人同一个答案: The Brew Orchestra。能受到同业的认同与访客的赞赏,本非易事,若不亲自尝试感受,殊为可惜啊!

看官们可点击详阅更多关于 The Brew Orchestra 的餐饮推荐:咖啡馆里,正奏着纯粹和谐的味觉交响曲 – The Brew Orchestra: A fine symphony of coffee & food that is music to our ears!

Stepping into The Brew Orchestra located in the heart of Taman Molek is akin to entering a grand concert hall, with its lovely and warm ambience instantly setting the tone and getting us into the right mood to enjoy fine coffee. The ceiling made of strings and brass is inspired by the string instruments of an orchestra, and the gentle curves are reminiscent of the way strings bend at the bridge of the violin, as well as the arched ceiling vaults in a traditional orchestra hall. The light bulbs hang off the stringed ceiling are akin to musical notes floating in the five lines of musical scores, while wood is used throughout to create a warm and conducive environment to enjoy a magnificent performance, whereby the stage is set for Isaac to perform his “magic”…

Back from Melbourne where he trained as a baristas, and one of a handful in Malaysia holding the highly coveted Q Grader license (a coveted qualification in the world of specialty coffee), Isaac specialises in the use of various artisanal brewing techniques is a firm believer in getting the beans to their drinkers in just-right condition and spends time and effort honing his technique and the inherent sensitivity to help patrons appreciate how to drink and taste it.

Having met countless like-minded fans and foodies, as well as industry experts in F&B and related fields, The Brew Orchestra stood out in unison when we ask for the best place to have coffee in town. Don’t just take our words, you have to come taste the difference and appreciate the fine symphony of coffee & food that is music to our ears!

此篇报导同时也已编入此册中的「讲究.不将就」系列中第92页 (限量发行,非卖品。版权所有,翻印必究):杂志大人2017年最新力作出炉啦 -《MENU: Find-dining in Johor Bahru 识食物者为俊杰》now serving…

Following the launch of our latest <MENU>, “Find Dining” in Johor Bahru has never been easier. May we present our “Chef Specials” on Pg 92 for some artisanal brew and culinary interpretation that will surely be as sweet as a song.… Encore!

[大人爱美食] 连咖啡师都大力推荐的咖啡你又怎能错过?就连最新推出的精致晚餐大人也太喜欢啦!大人还要告诉各位看官们,The Brew Orchestra 睽违一年之久的 The Ultimate Brownie 再度重出江湖绝不能错过!不得…

Posted by MAGistrate 杂志大人 on 17hb Oktober 2016

 

The Brew Orchestra

Address: 19, Jalan Molek 1/5C., Taman Molek, 81100 Johor Bahru.
Reservation: +607-358 8234
Time: Sun – Thurs 8.30am – 10.30pm /  Fri – Sat 8.30am – 11.30pm
NON-HALAL

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