被豢养地不像话的挑剔味蕾,所沉溺回味的,是这儿的味道。A nook in the cityscape to celebrate good food @ The Replacement – Lodge & Kitchen

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人]

或许是到了一定的年纪,开始发现这世上实在是有太多让人无法预测的事,能够睁开双眼迎接每日的晨光,都是值得为自己喝彩的小确幸,善待自己最好的方式有很多,享用一顿美好的早餐即是其一。

晨早的朝气还得有早餐的加持。身为不能缺少早餐暖胃的人们啊,独处或结伴而行,内心侧重的必是:这绝不能是一顿乏味的餐点。有了味滋润的胃,脸上的神情瞬间启动,就好似上了发条的转轮,嘴角与耳际的距离,变得好近。

Brunch is fast becoming a staple in most of our daily lifestyles, allowing for a late morning sleep-in especially during weekends; but being a huge devotee of the all-day availability of these breakfast-lunch combos, we found ourselves regularly exploring every nook and cranny of the city to find old and new establishments alike!

以时速百米的步调慢行入新山的老街们,这里终究没有因为年事已高而失去了往日的风华,「百废待举」在这条信手拈来皆是历史的道路上,丝毫没有成长的空间。位于罗咪街 (Jalan Dhoby) 的街角高龄双层旧楼宇,两年前年轻的主人对其一见钟情,决定相伴而生。披上一袭纯白墙纱的 The Replacement – Lodge & Kitchen,复古建筑内倾注了北欧的简约,素雅而美,令人着迷。光有颜值怎行?被豢养地不像话的挑剔味蕾,最沉溺回味的,是早餐的味道。

【大人小分享】二楼的住宿空间已对外开放,延伸阅读:入夜后在新山老街赏星月轨迹,留一宿 The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen – Bed and Breakfast: for the wanderlust to rest between wanders!

Possibly the first of its kind in Johor Bahru, The Replacement – Lodge & Kitchen is one of the most Kinfolk-inspired and photogenic cafes around to see showcases of old town vibes while hanging out and sipping speciality coffee and all-day brunch. Kudos to Edward and his team for giving JB a nook to celebrate good food and for the wanderlust to rest between wanders.

Hazelnut Latte & Pina Colada Tea

微甜的 Hazelnut Latte (RM11) 与以经典鸡尾酒为创作灵感的特殊茶饮 Pina Colada (RM22),香涩的滋味久留口中,简而言之「少了酒精的温热鸡尾酒。」

并非伪装,而是致敬。真喜欢这杯热腾腾的 Pina Colada

For the coffee infused enthusiasts, different flavours such as the Hazelnut Latte can spare us from the pain of lack of choices, but we seriously recommend you to check out their artisanal and boutique tea selections. Fret not, this Pina Colada tea is caffeine-free and alcohol-inspired (no alcohol content in its ingredients or its preparation), so we can continue dreaming of cocktails and cabanas. Infused with creamy coconut and carries the notes of tangy sweet honey pineapple, this lush tropical tea certainly has us counting the days until our next island getaway!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

法式芝士火腿三文治 Croque Madame

这一道从 Croque Monsieur 衍生而来的 Croque Madame (RM22.90),原是著名的法式芝士火腿三文治,字义上可分为先生与女士版本。在 The Replacement,顶端缀以朝气太阳蛋的乃属女士版本,「焗烤至酥脆金黄的三文治,火腿香气在嘴里肆意奔走,芝士味浓而不腻,与食蔬沙拉一唱一和,整体好和谐。」

Every Francophile would have eaten a Croque Monsieur (the French rendition of a grilled cheese sandwich), so how about a Croque Madame which is exactly the same, but with a fried egg on top? Every bite was pure satisfaction, with thick, tasty French ham coupled with sweet, savoury cheese plus béchamel sauce, topped with moist egg sunny side up! Mmmm, be sure to devour this while it is hot.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

西班牙鸡肉香肠马铃薯 Chorizo Hash

千姿百态的,不光是咱们人类,蛋亦然。每一度的增减温,柔情似水或硬朗结实,唯有破壳后才能知晓其真性情。这颗号称摄氏63度的水波蛋,戳破后顺势攀附在西班牙鸡肉香肠、马铃薯与菌菇上,浓情化不开。Chorizo Hash (RM22.90) 上桌时携伴同行,「一软一脆,麦香浆果面包与之真是门当户对啊!」真心喜欢,是无法掩饰的。

Adding to the already popular brunch menu, the Chorizo Hash brings spice to the usual eggy brunch menu. We really enjoyed the spicy sautéed chicken chorizos for that extra kick we need to wake up in the morning, and the potatoes, mushrooms with lemon thyme and brown butter provided great texture and substance to the delicious dish. Glistening with yumminess when topped with 63ºC sous vide egg and muesli toast on the side, we are in for anything with soft egg, especially when the oozing yolk and soft slithery whites mingle harmoniously with the chorizo-specked potatoes. Absolute perfection!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★☆

鳗鱼包子 Unagi Bao with Fries

这道取经自墨尔本的创意料理 Unagi Bao with Fries (RM29.90),以自制的中式包子微煎后搭配烤鳗鱼,顶层的明太子酱经火炙后与鱼籽同缀鳗鱼皮衣上,底部则铺以翠玉菜丝,趣致的中式汉堡与西式餐点的最佳配角 – 薯条同在一起,意外深获好评,「据悉这可是馆内人气料理哦」。若不喜鳗鱼,亦可点选搭配软壳蟹的版本。

For an alternative way of eating our favourite unagi, check out the fusion-inspired Unagi Bao with Fries derived from Melbourne’s sidewalk cafes. Using fluffy and soft pan-seared homemade bun stuffed with grilled unagi and salmon roes, each bite is like unleashing a umami bomb in your mouth, with dense notes of saltiness and sweetness. Served with lemon vinaigrette dressed salad and topped with mentaiko sauce, you can also try out the soft shell crab version which has also received rave reviews.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★☆

烤焦糖吐司 Brûlée Caramel Toast

另一道主人家在墨尔本尝过后即念念不忘的精致料理 – Brûlée Caramel Toast (RM18.90),一尝钟情的完美结局当然是让新山的味蕾们也能共襄盛举。外脆内软的口感,与大人最爱的焦糖布丁相似,只不过主角之一变成了吐司,搭以莓酱与雪糕,「衝着对焦糖布丁的莫名钟爱,这道甜食无需取巧就味上心头了。」

Another Melbourne-inspired creation and a revelry of sweet, savoury and buttery, with a textured toast that’s not soggy, the Brûlée Caramel Toast is The Replacement‘s answer to the classic French dessert but with a French toast twist. Topped with summer berries and vanilla ice cream, the result was sinful but oh so good.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

西班牙甜炸吉拿棒 Churros

人气最鼎沸之料理莫过于中译为西班牙甜炸吉拿棒的 Churros 啊!一开业即热卖至今的滋味,共有4种蘸酱:Salted Egg Yolk (RM16.90), Salted Caramel (RM14.90), Dark Chocolate (RM14.90), Hazelnut Nutella (RM14.90)。「一上桌就得鲜尝才能体验那脆甜而不油腻的灵魂口感。」

Affectionately known as the Spanish doughnuts and also popular in many other countries, these crunchy golden Churros are served warm at just the right temperature and tasted really crispy on the outside yet soft on the inside. Dusted in a light coat of cinnamon sugar and served with a choice of Salted Egg Yolk, Salted Caramel, Dark Chocolate or Hazelnut Nutella by the side, the churros are good enough to stand on its own and made for the perfect end to our meal.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

【大人小分享】额外增点任一蘸酱需另付费 RM5.90;单点 Churros 则为 RM9.90。

慕名而来的人客们显然没有打算让位子闲下来,一副你站起我坐下的节奏,与馆里的选乐与咖啡机冲泡声响好搭调。贪恋 The Replacement 的正能量早餐氛围?放心,这儿日落前皆属白昼,是一处极适合推荐国内外好友恣意休憩的文青食馆。那,日落后呢?

From 10am to 6pm, The Replacement still dishes out its signature churros and coffee, but come 7pm, it’s “replacement” now morphs into a tapas bar serving tipples and small plates at night where we can dig into Spanish tapas with Asian ingredients.

Night at Replacement

当大地披上夜幕后,七点霓虹灯初上,The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen 也随之与晨昏线同调,纯白墙衣不再似白昼高调,气温失去了张牙舞爪的蛮力,识相地降了几度,可那渐层的紫霓让谁也无法再伪装内心的炽热。

若说历史让淳朴老街充满了知性的专利,那 Night at Replacement 的诞生则让老街一瞬间逆龄了好几岁。醒神咖啡香,六点准时谢幕;微醺酒香,七点准时登场。主人因眷念着旅行时的美好小时光,进而生念把当时的情景都给迁进了馆子里。为分享而生的何止是酒饮,精心混搭烹制的开胃小食 (Tapas) 更是称职地不得了,美艳不可方物之余,滋味更是难挡。

【大人小分享】Night at Replacement 的食材由获清真认证的供应商提供,并竭力以本地时鲜上桌。以下所示价格皆未含服务税与消费税。

Come to think about it, there are few sights more impressive than a city at night shimmering under the bright glow of illumination, or buildings reflecting the vibrant colours of the twilight sky. Wherever we are in the world (and JB’s included), any town will be transformed as day turns into night, and there are amazing scenes and moments to be captured. If there’s something that always hits the spot when paired with post-work drinks such as hot tea, craft beer, mocktail and Japanese highball at this point, it’s tapas.

Night at Replacement 的夜饮组合分为4部曲:Japanese Highball (RM30) , Craft Beer (RM30), Mocktail (RM18)  Hot Tea (RM12)。

不得不赞这儿的开胃小食,滋味远超大人所能预见,丝毫不因是下酒菜而马虎。那趣致的包子,远看还以为是鸡蛋汉堡呢!原来是 Night at Replacement 一套二式的当家小点 – 冰淇淋汉堡 (Signature Fried Bao with Ice Cream, a set of two: Matcha & Milk, RM18)!「炸得酥脆的包子搭上冰淇淋,一冷一热简直嗨翻唇齿间!切记,这是道一刻也不能等的小食噢!趁热进食!品尝冰淇淋汉堡就别顾及仪态了,大口大口吃才脾涼舒爽啊!

完整美食笔记延伸阅读:忙碌因夜晚而息,夜晚为相聚而生。大人今夜与新山罗咪老街 “Night at Replacement” 有约 What happens when day turns into Night at Replacement?

Starting with the Drinks section of the menu, drinkers will be glad to hear that Night at Replacement offers a growing but well-curated selection that is both modest in length yet wide in variety for you to imbibe: Japanese Highball, Craft Beer, Mocktail and Hot Tea.

Depending on the season, you can enjoy the most excellent produce for that time of the year in a good variety of conceptual tapas dishes. May we also suggest before you pick up your tabs for the evening, be sure to try their Signature Fried Bao with Ice Cream that comes in a set of two with Matcha and natural Milk goodness. With just the right blend of sweet and savoury, the Night at Replacement‘s interpretation has a pleasantly warm and cold interplay sensation with a creamy texture and smooth consistency that is best enjoyed while it’s “hot”!!!

喝酒吃菜配话,日子特别愉悦,大人发觉 Night at Replacement 的 Tapas 料理倾向将本地食材里那最鲜的滋味与佐料的天然香气二合为一相辅相成,极具心思,值得推荐。「谁说老街没有 Night Life 呢?姑且不论您是在地人抑或是旅人,7点后的时光请记得与这儿有约。

Two years on, The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen is just as fantastic, if not more so with the newly introduced tapas menu. Regardless if the clock strikes 7pm, do not leave Jalan Dhoby without some HTHT or having a hearty meal, day or night.

The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen

Address: 33 & 34, Jalan Dhoby, 80000, Johor Bahru
Business Hour:  10am-7pm (Mon-Thu); 10am-6pm, 7pm-12am (Fri); 9am-6pm, 7pm-12am (Sat & Sun)
Email: thereplacementlandk@gmail.com

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Terms and Conditions
• Valid from 9 June 2017 to 31 May 2018
• Valid from 7.00pm to 11.00pm daily
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结案陈词 Verdict
  • 环境 Ambience
    8
  • 价格 Price
    7
  • 食物选择 Variety
    7
  • 服务态度 Service
    8
  • 味道点评 Taste
    8
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