[编辑 Editor 吕大人 英译 Translator 刘大人 摄影 Photographer 黄大人 资料 Sub-editor 郑大人]
就像大人今日会到访此处，全因之前数回与新山咖啡业者、友人畅聊时，问及他们内心可有自己非常欣赏的好咖啡时，竟不约而同地给了大人同一个答案: The Brew Orchestra。这下子大人可好奇了，能受到同业的认同与访客的赞赏，本非易事，若不亲自尝试感受，殊为可惜啊！
Call it coincidence, destiny or even fate, paths can cross and lives change forever, yet chance encounters aren’t necessarily accidental. Having met countless like-minded fans and foodies, as well as industry experts in F&B and related fields, it isn’t always when everyone would agree on their favourite beverage, but one name stood out in unison when we ask for the best place to have coffee in town. Leaving nothing to chance, we have decided to head to The Brew Orchestra to find out what brings so many people from all walks of life to gather… here!
The Brew Orchestra 位处新山百合花园商业区内，L型玻璃黑框长窗优雅地区隔开室外的商业气息，车水马龙瞬间化为无声影像。走过长廊推门而入，娴静专注而优雅的氛围宛若乐章序曲徐徐绕耳，尤以顶上那看似竖琴的弦线装置，搭上工业风的灯具后，颇有拨弦之际知音顿时亮起心灯的画面，那不正是大人今日的感觉吗？
Stepping into this coffee establishment located in the heart of Taman Molek is akin to entering a grand concert hall, with its lovely and warm ambience instantly setting the tone and getting us into the right mood to enjoy fine coffee. This ceiling made of strings and brass is inspired by the string instruments of an orchestra, and the gentle curves are reminiscent of the way strings bend at the bridge of the violin, as well as the arched ceiling vaults in a traditional orchestra hall. The light bulbs hang off the stringed ceiling are akin to musical notes floating in the five lines of musical scores, while wood is used throughout to create a warm and conducive environment to enjoy a magnificent performance, whereby the stage is set for the barista to perform his “magic”…
Isaac 正是这里的主人，专注地做咖啡一直是他最在意的事。留澳多年，他不讳言 The Brew Orchestra 确实融入了澳洲的咖啡文化，「澳洲毕业后，由于非常喜欢当地的咖啡文化，所以选择留在当地一段日子汲取咖啡文化，之后也到了韩国。」品一杯参赛等级的咖啡在这里毫无难度。
现已是咖啡品质鉴定师与精品咖啡顾问 (Licensed Q Grader & Specialty Coffee Consultant) 的 Isaac 仍旧将店内主力倾注於黑咖啡中，室内一隅的多幅奖状并非装饰，更似提醒自身不断超越自己的意念。这里的咖啡皆不附糖，因为 Isaac 自始至终心中所追求的乃是其中最自然的「甜」与「干净度」。「泡制咖啡的机器很重要，磨盘的速度不一样，味道就会有所改变。近年来，大众品尝咖啡的口味已日渐提升，因此我们引进了这目前全球只有100台，由Apple电脑的前产品设计师所研制、可调控磨盘速度的磨豆机。」
Meet Isaac, the orchestra “director” and the brain behind the brew. Back from Melbourne where he trained as a baristas, and one of a handful in Malaysia holding the highly coveted Q Grader license (a coveted qualification in the world of specialty coffee), Isaac is also the winner of the Malaysian Aeropress Championship in Year 2014, and proudly represented Malaysia in the World Aeropress Championship in Seattle, USA the following year.
When not serving his competition beans, Isaac who specialises in the use of various artisanal brewing techniques is a firm believer in getting the beans to their drinkers in just-right condition and spends time and effort honing his technique and the inherent sensitivity to help patrons appreciate how to drink and taste it. With the aid of the limited edition Lyn Weber EG-1 with precise control over key variables that affect profiles in the cup, this one in a hundred commercial grinder in the world actually help make their brews sweeter than ever, even without the use of sugar in the equation. Don’t just take our words, you have to come taste the difference!
将于今年11月迈入三周年的 The Brew Orchestra 所采用的皆为优质单品豆子 (Single Origin，单品咖啡意指原产地出产的单一咖啡豆所做出的咖啡)，在味道与余韵上更显与众不同，「咖啡其实也受季节和收成期影响，丰收季后第一批最好的新鲜豆子经过专业烘培后，口感风味极富层次感。」Isaac 向大人娓娓道来。这杯口感顺滑的 Magic (RM11) 牛奶比例甚少，喝一口了然于心。
Striking the first chord for our inaugural visit after nearly three years in the business is Magic – a popular brew from Melbourne which in this rendition is a double strength cappuccino. According to Isaac, the cuppa uses the current crop from the single origin beans from Ethiopia for the best taste, and we felt the resulting taste is still smoother-tasting even with lesser milk. The curtain had not yet quite risen, but the “Overture” was already being played.
“创意”咖啡 Rolling In The Teap
大人打趣戏称这为「英式鸳鸯」的 Rolling In The Teap (RM21) ，滋味好令人难忘。「在茶中灌入热奶，之后再将之倒入冻结成冰球的咖啡中，这就是大人刚提及的英式鸳鸯啊～ 靠向杯缘那一瞬间奶茶香味扑鼻而来，浅尝一口后竟有香料味出其不意侵袭大人的味蕾。千万别着急，待咖啡球完全溶解后即可静享，此时滋味最佳。」
Think of this as a role reversal, where ice coffee ball is rolled in warm tea-infused milk and housemade syrup. The end result? A unique English “Yuan-Yang” fusion that somehow have us lost for words (speechless, it was that extraordinary), and our tongues literally Rolling In The Teap… whatever that may be!
这杯店家得奖作品 Interstellar (RM24) 可谓咖啡中的 cocktail 啊！「咖啡融入了浆果茶、香草茶与伯爵茶后，再加入柚子糖浆，后以分子料理的概念将橘子气体注入杯中。大人好喜欢这杯刺激感官的饮料，触目所见是咖啡，闻之是橘子，尝后是柚子，好奇妙。」
Designed to entice our taste buds and gastronomical senses, this unique Interstellar concoction resembles more like a mixed cocktail than coffee. Try blending your bergamot carbonated espresso with vanilla, earl grey and berry tea, and further infused with housemade yuzu syrup and mandarin juice in true molecular fashion. There you have it, a special beverage that still looks like coffee, smells bergamot and taste of yuzu. WOW!
这是杯来自埃塞俄比亞豆子的手冲咖啡，有着浆果、梅子、杏桃等水果余韵。「追求手冲咖啡的纯净无杂质感？这杯被大人们尊称为咖啡界山泉水的手冲咖啡必会是你的心头好。」手冲单品咖啡风味固然独特，咖啡师在此的角色更是举足轻重啊！眼见 Isaac 手法娴熟地将水温、水量与计时的各种变化掌控至极致，怎叫人不期待？
A key “player” in their coffee repertoire, the hand-crafted Filter by Isaac has won over a cult following of coffee enthusiasts locally by serving the best coffee brewed from the finest single origin beans and brewing techniques. While we have yet to attain the level of finesse in detecting the berries and flowery notes (that hints of berry, plum and apricot) from our cuppa, we know our cup of coffee will be a great one.
鸡肉香卷 Chicken Roulade
The Brew Orchestra 在呈献食物细节这档事上丝毫也不见马虎，道道清新别致。大人心想，认真的人做什么都是值得期待的。今日来的正是时候，这可是新鲜出炉的晚餐料理，着实太精致了。「经真空低温慢烤10小时的鸡腿肉，紧将红萝卜与蘑菇捆卷其中后再缀以罗勒、薄荷叶等调制而成的青酱，皮脆喷香肉嫩汁淳，一口咬下滑腴弹牙，好吃至极。自家酥炸的红薯片犹如盐烤迷你马铃薯与烤番茄顶上的华丽帽子，酥脆质爽，差点抢走了鸡肉卷的风采啊！」这道鸡肉香卷 (Chicken Roulade, RM36) 滋味绝非浓妆艳抹。
After working quietly for several months upgrading their kitchen and sourcing for some of the best ingredients in town, the same stage is now set for a rousing ovation as The Brew Orchestra presents their long awaited main course menu. First up is the light, juicy and tantalising Chicken Roulade – an extremely time consuming dish but definitely worth every effort when we dig in to it. Fastidiously prepared using sous vide free-range chicken thigh stuffed with carrot and mushrooms, salt-baked baby potato, sweet potato chips and slowed roasted tomatoes adding the “crowning glory” flavoured in an invigorating salsa verde sauce and jus. With the sous vide technique, the natural chicken flavour and juices were sealed and fork-tender, with sounds of “encore” echoing in the background asking for more!
厚切香猪扒 Thick Cut Pork Chop
第一道就如此精彩，大人不禁引颈期盼下一道如何战胜刚被抚慰的味蕾啊！厚切香猪扒 (Thick Cut Pork Chop, RM34) 单是外观便已不负众望，350g的特厚猪扒以大蒜、迷迭香及百里香深入腌制后，再以真空低温烹调至肉质软嫩锁汁，雪白凝脂。「红萝卜被处理地非常细腻出色，有股异香。艳丽的食蔬想必是色彩心理学大师之作，披上蜂蜜芥末醬后的紫甘蓝超对味。此时唯一可做的，即是趁热享用啊！」原来此处深藏不露，料理等级直逼 Fine Dining。
If the first presentation is anything to go by, we certainly had high expectations for the follow-up dishes. Fortunately, the 350g Thick Cut Pork Chop did not disappoint. Deeply marinated with garlic, rosemary and thyme, the meat was again tender and flavour locked from being cooked sous-vide. The salt-baked carrots and carrot puree is a big highlight of the dish, together with sauteed bacon and green peas and honey mustard cabbage adding another dimension of flavour to the dish. Pardon our shallow palate, this sure got our taste buds excited, and we will definitely come back for this again.
柚子三文鱼 Atlantic Salmon
店家出手即不凡，连吃两道高水准料理后的大人，食欲大开。口感软嫩无比的柚子三文鱼 (Atlantic Salmon, RM42) 底下匿藏葡萄干北非小米饭 Couscous，「完整鱼皮离身后煎至金黄薄脆，令人惊艳！糖渍后的火炙三文鱼肉抹以柚子蛋黄酱呈现近乎熟透的溏心状，佐以软而不酸的橘子，好吃得一发不可收拾。点睛之作乃是以橘子皮晒干后捣碎的细粒，自然香甜引食欲。」
We also appreciate Isaac’s enjoyable attempts at complexity & creativity, best illustrated by the Atlantic Salmon served with crispy salmon skin, yuzu mayonnaise and green beans. The salmon confit was poached in olive oil and torched perfectly, flaky, nicely golden and juicy in the middle to our liking, and add these to the blueberry couscous with lemon vinaigrette dressing, we have yet another delicious culinary masterpiece.
北海道鲜带子意大利面 Hokkaido Scallop
采用了刺身等级的北海道鲜带子，这一道意大利面 (Hokkaido Scallop, RM38) 滋味实在迷人。丝丝面里缠着樱花虾米 (Sakura Ebi) 与裙带菜 (Wakame)，咸香淡雅。「佐酱就是面食的灵魂所在，店家这回祭出新山极为少见的压箱底极品自制日式高汤味噌酱 (Dashi Cream Sauce) 果然不同凡响！太提味！必尝！」
The pasta was cooked perfectly, but the star was definitely the sashimi-grade Hokkaido Scallops. The scallops were so fresh, super tender and very sweet, while the al dente bite of the pasta was flavourful and well-balanced and enhanced with Sakura Ebi, Wakame and the meticulous care of serving with a specially curated Dashi Cream Sauce that’s almost unheard of in JB, every detail was faultless! Seriously, the taste of the scallop was unforgettable and still lingers on many hours later!
终极布朗尼 The Ultimate Brownie
睽违已久的终极布朗尼 (The Ultimate Brownie, RM18) 终于重披战袍上阵对垒饕客的味蕾，攻势凌厉，大人口中城墙彻底被攻陷了！「终极布朗尼的真身乃以馥郁香浓的黑巧克力特制而成，再以松饼姿态出征，浓厚微苦止不了口。喷烤过的甜脆焦糖附身剖半香蕉之上，软糯可口！香草冰淇淋适时中和了咖啡份子，随意撒泼的干炒杏仁、南瓜籽与饼屑简直突击了大人的心防，喷香口感层次大提升！不枉大人等你多时！超乎水准的原料只能说这价格太有诚意。」
Guess who’s back?! Our grand finale saw the return of The Ultimate Brownie who has undergone a massive makeover for over a year is finally back even better! Using waffle machine to create a crusty exterior with deep pockets that holds the signature espresso caramel sauce, all this while maintaining its moist dark chocolate internals! Served with bruleed bananas, toasted mixed nuts and premium vanilla ice cream, resistance is futile!
The Brew Orchestra 如此释义：咖啡馆里，正奏着纯粹和谐的味觉交响曲。
A final word from the conductor himself, “different beans have different brewing methods using different equipment and they all come together here – just like how different musical instruments form an orchestra.” Wise words indeed from Isaac, and coupled with such deep-rooted passion towards his food and beverages, we have no doubt the culinary interpretation from The Brew Orchestra will surely be as sweet as a song.
The Brew Orchestra
Address: 19, Jalan Molek 1/5C., Taman Molek, 81100 Johor Bahru.
Reservation: +607-358 8234
Time: Sun – Thurs 8.30am – 10.30pm / Fri – Sat 8.30am – 11.30pm