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含泪推荐!劲辣过瘾吃不休,“新”心相“印”的苏拉威西好滋味 Savour the fiery & exotic taste of Sulawesi Cuisine @ Mount Austin

含泪推荐!劲辣过瘾吃不休,“新”心相“印”的苏拉威西好滋味 Savour the fiery & exotic taste of Sulawesi Cuisine @ Mount Austin

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人  资料 Sub-editor 郑大人]
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苏拉威西,这个曾在中学地理课上得熟背以应付考试的名称,不晓得各位看官们还记得否?咱们的邻国印尼素有千岛之国的美称,这个在东南亚面积最大的群岛之国,岛屿数目颇为惊人,竟有逾17000个!而位于东部的苏拉威西岛就是其一,岛形神似英文字母中的K,按世界岛屿面积计算,可位居全球第十一大岛。

咦?为什么大人突然给看官们上起地理课啊?噢其实是喜欢到处觅食的大人,有次途经茂奥斯汀商业区时恰好瞄见这家名为 苏拉威西 SULAWESI 的餐馆,敢以岛名挂帅,想必这儿的滋味非常正宗吧?一般上大伙儿熟悉的印尼菜系不外是巴东咖喱、巴厘岛烤猪等,苏拉威西菜系在本地似乎并不普遍,好吧!愈发好奇的大人终于忍不住啦,速速起轿!

Sulawesi probably rings familiar from our high school geography textbooks but fret not, this is no lecture on one of the main islands of Indonesia, and the 11th largest island in the world. With four spindly arms spinning outward, Sulawesi’s spidery K-shape is distinctive and easily recognisable.

So what’s the big deal on Southeast Asia largest archipelago nation comprising over 17,000 islands? The sheer diversity of people, culture, and different foods is astounding, from the more familiar Nasi Padang to grilled meats and ribs from Ubud, Sulawesi cuisine remains an unknown quantity… but not for long! In fact, it has already arrived at our door steps, all it take now is to point your GPS to Mount Austin, and SULAWESI quietly awaits!

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这餐厅面积不小啊!楼高五层的角头商业单位就位于茂奥斯汀和丽园大道旁,常取此道者稍加留意就能瞧见,若不熟悉印尼地域名称,或许看官们一时之间并不晓得这里其实是家正宗印尼美食餐馆。据说 苏拉威西 SULAWESI 菜系堪称全印尼最辣菜系,环岛的优越地理条件使苏拉威西素以海产闻名,大人开始忐忑又期待了…

这家 苏拉威西 SULAWESI 餐馆其实在印尼两大城市雅加达与万隆皆有设点,由于近年来新山早已跃升为许多海外餐厅进军马来西亚的首站,创办人慧眼独具当然也毫不犹豫就将业务延伸至此,今年6月2日才开张的海外首家 苏拉威西 SULAWESI 餐馆,四个月后大人终于有幸站在这美味领地里等待惊喜。为了这家正宗美食新据点,创办人还特地将印尼的厨师团队调往本地,太有诚意啦!只有在地人才能烹调得出最在地的滋味啊!只能说新山人实在太有口福啦!

Occupying a 5-storey corner shop lot with a prominent frontage along Jalan Austin Heights 8/8 in Taman Mount Austin on the way towards Taman Setia Indah, Sulawesi Cuisine first opens its door on 2 June 2016 as the first ever overseas outlet outside of Jakarta and Bandung. For the uninitiated, Sulawesi cuisine is probably one of the spiciest in Indonesia, and the dishes are typified by the heavy use of meat, fowl and fresh seafood as well as the generous use of spices. Local foodies and explorers seeking a refreshing side of Indonesia will now find something to like from this region and reasons to cheer without needing to take the next flight out for some truly authentic Sulawesi adventure!

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大啖美食前,让大人为看官们先彻查环境吧!除了底层的开放式用餐环境,其实餐馆的二楼也设有两间冷气包厢 (需预约,也可依据食客要求调整部分菜色),较小的包厢可容纳8-12人 (最低消费RM600),大型包厢则可容纳16-20人 (最低消费RM800),若将屏风全数开启,两间包厢也可合二为一成为超大型包厢,绝对适合阖家聚餐、公司聚会噢!若是看官们正在计划筹办更大型的自助餐宴会 (可容纳达150人),大人建议:就包下整个二楼吧! 😀

Thanks to Bryan, our “tour guide” for the day, we began our two-hour journey to check out the alfresco dining area at the ground level. Taking a peek at the second level revealed a much more comfortable air-conditioned setting with two private dining rooms thrown in for good measures. The smaller room accommodates up to 8 to 12 pax with a minimum spending of RM 600, while the bigger room can comfortably host a party of 20 starting from RM800. Alternatively, we can also request for the partition to be open for those in need of an even bigger space for family parties. For event planners looking for your next product launch or company dinner venue, the entire level is also open to food catering options up to 150 pax. Sounds good enough for our next party heh!

新鲜进口海鲜 Air-flown seafood from Sulawesi

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这些海产都是从印尼苏拉威西岛进口的哟,看看手掌般大小的老虎虾、外形像艘小船的盒子鱼还有俗称鸡腿鱼的剥皮鱼!据负责人Bryan告知大人 「剥皮鱼肉质与鸡肉类似,鱼身只有一根大鱼骨,非常适合以我们餐馆的特制辣酱涂抹鱼身烧烤食用。」听得大人胃液翻滚啊!此外,大人还对盒子鱼那奇特的模样深感兴趣,快据实禀报是谁打扁了您的头啊?看官们若是到此一游,记得来看看盒子鱼的倒三角完美真身比例!鱼虾蟹三将,这里当然也少不了螃蟹啦!「700g的螃蟹最好吃,比起一般市场上所售卖的500g螃蟹,肉质含量更多。 」快笔记笔记!

In a country with over 17,000 islands, seafood is bound to feature prominently. You can’t miss these larger than palm tiger prawns, with its distinctive grey or black stripes that turn red when cooked or the submarine look-alike boxfish and leather jacket fish that seems out of this world. The unusual boxfish do not have a conventional bony skeleton like most vertebrate, while the joy of the leather jacket fish (also known as Sukang Ikan) is not only because its chewy texture but also typical of these fish without thorns. Add the familiar crabs, clams, squids and other seawater catches imported directly from Makassar, this promises to be a seafood feast to remember!

店家特制酱料

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刚刚大人不是有说过苏拉威西岛民的嗜辣程度奇高吗?看了服务生呈上五碗一套、辣度不一的酱料与黄瓜,内心不免一惊!莫非… 别担心,据说由于部分食材与超辣辣椒在本地难觅,辣度已被调整,那就好… 大人可不想在这里被 “丰唇” 啊!

那么苏拉威西的道地吃法是否与本地相似?「苏拉威西岛民会将全部酱料与黄瓜匀和一起拌着来吃,本地人则仍习惯分开品尝。」大人各别试了一口,右上角那一碗里掺有江鱼仔的青辣椒酱极得大人心啊!

Indonesians, as a rule, eat a lot of chilly but in Sulawesi, the amount eaten is phenomenal and Sulawesi cuisine is known to be dangerously fiery and unforgivably bold with no exception. Having stayed and worked in Indonesia for the past 3 years, Bryan observed that the natives prefer to mix their chilli sauces with other condiments such as cucumber and acar as their favourite dip, while Malaysians typically enjoy theirs on its own. Having tried a small mouthful of each before mixing them up like the natives do, we must admit that these sauces, in particular the Rica Rica certainly packs a punch, though the combined mixture has a bit of sweet and sour tasting components to it while being spicy at the same time. Having undergone the necessary initiation to prepare our tongues, we duly challenged Bryan to bring it on LOL!

水果罗惹 Rujak Buah

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大人千真万确没写错,这一碟水果罗惹就叫 Rujak Buah (RM6)两地的罗惹分别当然不止于一个字母那么简单,因为虾膏份量大减所以苏拉威西式的罗惹酱汁较稀,加入了马六甲椰糖后整体口味偏香甜。再仔细一看原来里头还加上了木瓜,材料虽与本地有异,美味依旧 (苏拉威西菜式的重口味绝对不会因少了虾膏而失色噢)。

We love the simplicity of this Rujak Buah (fruit rojak) that is less gooey and drizzled by a generous dab of sticky sauce consisting of little more than Gula Melaka pounded in a mortar with chillies. We took an immediate shine to this sweet, sour and spicy concoction mixed with fresh fruits that are unlike our local version; its slight smokiness married seamlessly with the light and juicy fruits, even in the near-absence of shrimp paste.

印尼小吃 Jalan Kote

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这不是咖喱角,而是印尼传统小食 Jalan Kote (每件售RM2.60)。Jalan Kote 中译为边走边吃,脆皮里藏了红萝卜、马铃薯、冬粉和鸡蛋,大人边吃边蘸了红色辣酱在里头 (这倒是与本地吃法类似,强力推荐),好提味!「香脆的外皮薄而不油腻,而且现点现炸,难怪那么好吃!」大人好喜欢这道纯手工小食,待会儿就买些给捕快们填肚子 😍

Literally translated as “eat as you go”, Jalan Kote is a tasty appetiser filled with potatoes, vermicelli, bean sprouts, eggs and carrots – pretty much like our local puffs. Deep fried to perfection, this is a must try at any Indonesian restaurant and best enjoyed with their signature chilli sauce. Hey Bryan, remember to pack some extras for us on the go

各式饮料 Spice cleansers & thirst quenchers

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在辣椒叁峇横行的地方久留,当然得有几杯冷饮傍身才有安全感!加上外头的太阳公公实在太不给情面,大人不假思索点了几杯无添加糖分、解渴解辣的果汁来尝鲜,就从左上顺时针开始吧:Jus Markisa 百香果汁 (RM11)、Jus Alpukat 鳄梨马六甲椰糖汁 (RM11)、Jus Guava 红番石榴汁 (RM8) 和 Jus Sirsak 红毛榴莲汁 (RM8)。「鳄梨汁加上马六甲椰糖也太特别,这杯大人要定了!」

Great minds taste alike indeed as our random and preferred order of passion fruit juice, avocado juice, guava juice and soursop juice turn out to be some of their best-sellers. These sugar-free and freshly squeezed beverages are not only flavourful and refreshing but also served as a delicious way to put out that “fire” from the fiery sambal that would soon make their rounds shortly!

PS: If you are looking for a decadent treat that also provides a dose of healthy fat, this Indonesia-version Jus Alpukat with added Gula Melaka is just what you are looking for.

香烤茄子 Terong Bakar (Parape)

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这道香烤茄子 Terong Bakar (RM12) 其实有两种酱料选择 – Rica Rica 及 Parape,大人今日就选了 Parape (毕竟总不能道道都挑辣的来点吧 XD)。微烤过的茄子软而不绵,淡淡的茄香并没有被酱料功高盖主,两者配搭得恰如其分,大人不禁暗爽自己怎么这么会挑食物 😀

The Terong Bakar (grilled eggplant) took on a delicious smokiness and dark glossy sheen to its skin, while its insides turn into a creamy pulp, like a happy sponge soaking in the flavours of the accompanying sauce. Available in Rica Rica or Parape, we went for the latter (red onions broiled in special sweet sauce) to spare our palettes of an early “burnt out” from the extreme spiciness that lies await 😀

青辣椒酱叁峇苏东 Cumi Jantan Saos Cabe Ijo

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青辣椒酱叁峇苏东 Cumi Jantan Saos Cabe Ijo (RM18) 啊~ 你夺走了大人的心!「大人我已经拍板决定,每次来都要点这道!」爆好吃啊 (已跪) !如图所见,里头有香茅、青辣椒、秘制酱料等,大人的最爱齐聚于此,岂有不纳入胃中的理由?必点!

This simple street fare that fills the belly is now taken to a new level, with the Cumi Jantan Saos Cabe Ijo given a typical Indonesian preparation. The chef was careful to grill the squid such that its texture remains chewy with a delicate softness. Add to the sambal green chilli with lemongrass and other spices, this will definitely go down as one of the must-order dishes for our subsequent visits.

香蕉叶烤饭 Nasi Bakar

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不想吃白饭的看官们可以点这道 香蕉叶烤饭 Nasi Bakar (RM8) 来尝尝。被蕉叶包裹着的米饭中除了有烧烤过的微香外,还能瞧见江鱼仔与小辣椒的踪迹。大人觉得这道搭上炸豆腐与黄瓜片们的蕉叶烤饭非常适合独享,只需再点上其中一道大人这里所推荐的苏拉威西菜,一个人吃饭也能很精彩啊 😀

Need some rice staple to go along with the other dishes, you simply can’t go wrong with the Nasi Bakar. This grilled rice is another Indonesian classic where freshly steamed rice is wrapped in banana leaves that were lightly smoked first to release their fragrance before being rolled with ikan bilis and grilled for a few minutes. Mix it all up with the accompanying fried bean curd, sliced cucumbers and tomatoes, and you have the perfect companion to go with any of their Sulawesi’s special.

香料炸鸡 Ayam Goreng

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与 Ayam Penyet 口感有些许相似的香料炸鸡 Ayam Goreng (RM9),皮脆肉香再配上秘制香屑,「蘸上叁峇的确更可口啊!可不可以再赏我多点香屑啊~」

Similar to Ayam Penyet, what we loved about the Ayam Goreng here is that the chicken is not heavily breaded but marinated and deep fried to a serious golden crispiness, ensuring that all the flavour gets embedded into the chicken instead of the batter. Lip-smacking!

蜜烤甜辣老虎虾 Udang Sitto Tiger (Bakar Madu)

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比手掌还大的蜜烤甜辣老虎虾 Udang Sitto Tiger (RM38/3只),这回不必再担心抢不着了!一人一只恰恰好~ 共有5种做法的老虎虾,大人今日相中了Bakar Madu,「老虎虾肉又大又扎实而且很Q弹新鲜,配上甜甜辣辣的酱汁就是开胃呀!」当然看官们也能选择绝辣的Rica Rica酱、原味酥炸、咸蛋翻炒或巴东咖喱酱来呈现此道大虾 😀

Few things in the world are as beautiful as prawns the size of our palms (remember) and could hardly contain our joy as the Udang Sitto Tiger were delivered to our table. A delectable serving of three juicy jumbo tiger prawns charcoal grilled to perfection with a tinge of honey, the meat was sweeter, juicy and succulent. For one of the few times, we had minimal interest in checking out the other cooking styles that include their mainstay Rica Rica, crispy, stir-fried with salted eggs or the ever-popular Padang-style chilli sauce – they were that good!

印尼特色沙爹 Sate

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「印尼当地主要都是使用椰壳炭,一方面灰烬较少,另一方面是椰香在炙烤过程中会锁入肉质中。」的确,用椰壳炭所炙烤的印尼特色沙爹 (共有鸡、牛、羊三种肉类,每份沙爹有两种酱料) 看似与本地沙爹无异,送入口中才知椰香的真功夫!「在印尼,羊肉沙爹一般还会淋上酸柑汁,但并非所有本地食客都能接受这口味。」谢谢Bryan为大人长知识啊~

大人可是点了12串沙爹才能享有这个迷你烤炉作伴,万幸是12串!因为餐桌上的厮杀竟然没有官阶之分,大人差点吃不到~「你们就行行好,留一串给大人吃吧~」话不多说先让大人为看官们报价吧:鸡肉沙爹 Sate Ayam (RM28/12串, RM15/6串),牛肉沙爹 Sate Sapi (RM36/12串, RM20/6串),羊肉沙爹 Sate Kambing (RM40/12串, RM22/6串)。

For centuries, people in Indonesia have recognised the use of coconut husks not only as a natural raw material to produce handicrafts but also as an alternative supplement to traditional lump charcoal to improve and prolong the heat produced for cooking and to give food an aromatic, smoky taste. The best part, coconut charcoal is also considered environmentally-friendly where no single tree is cut for its production.

If you’re up for an entire meal of thick skewered and a goo-tasting meat on sticks, this is the place to do it, but that would shortchange several other exceptional dishes on this concise homage to unique Indonesian flavours. The satay (or Sate in Indonesia) come in bundles of half dozen or twelve skewers, and you could take your pick from chicken (Sate Ayam), beef (Sate Sapi) or mutton (Sate Kambing). While the satays went well with the more familiar and peanutty sauce, the natives actually prefer their sate (in particular mutton) to go with the more refreshingly sour and spicier dip.

店家招牌盒子鱼 Kudu Kudu

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还记得刚刚大人想替它伸冤的盒子鱼 Kudu Kudu (RM9/100g) 吗?经过大厨们的精心处理,此鱼被 “物尽其用” 成为了名符其实的盒子!负责人Bryan 禀报大人,这挖空鱼身的煮法可是源自苏拉威西噢!原先粘附鱼身的肉肉们被切成块状,抹上面粉酥炸后极为香脆,再以类似 “咕噜肉” 的酱汁裹身,「这肉质好特别,介于鱼肉与鸡肉之间啊!」

When palates crave the opposite of Sulawesi spiciness, this Kudu Kudu aka “helicopter fish” offers an unexpected sweet and sour reprieve. The highlight of our meal was definitely savouring the chewy fish meat that was wrapped in crispy flour in order to grow, while the very tough fish skin was ingeniously used as a container. Seriously, if this has been a blind food tasting, we could be forgiven for thinking we just had sweet and sour chicken instead, the texture was really that amazing despite its bizarre appearance!

剥皮鱼(鸡肉鱼) Sukang Ikan

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在点这号称只有一根大骨的剥皮鱼(鸡肉鱼) Sukang Ikan (RM7/100g) 时,大人非常犹豫该以什么酱料来烧烤,才能告诉同僚们我来过正宗的印尼餐馆啊!「餐谱上写着 Rica Rica 再附上三根小辣椒图形的绝辣酱看来非常诱人,就选你啦!」这绝辣酱放入口中绝对会让各位不嗜辣者轻敌!因为它竟然在2分钟后才给我来劲儿啊~ 幸好大人有提防 (暗笑中)… 这可难不倒爱吃香喝辣的大人哟!「剥皮鱼的鸡肉鱼昵称真是没叫错,你根本就是企图想假扮鱼肉的鸡肉嘛!」

While prawn and squid have a place in Indonesian cuisine, we felt this Sukang Ikan gets a far better showing for a fleshy texture that is perfect for dipping into the “mother-of-all” Indonesian sauce – the ultimate Rica Rica! Being a famous type of hot and spicy bumbu (mixture) found in Manado cuisine of North Sulawesi, the sauce uses a lot of chopped or ground red and green chilli peppers, bird’s eye chilli, shallots, garlic and ginger cooked in coconut oil and mixed with lime leaf, bruised lemongrass and lime juice for a taste like no other. The taste may be surprisingly mild at first, but be warned that the spicy aftertaste only kicks in after about two minutes haha. The fish meat may not be as sweet as other seawater catches and we almost mistook it for chicken meat, but we don’t have to fight the bones to eat the flesh, which is actually the best thing!

榴莲雪糕冰沙 Es Argin Mamiri

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苏拉威西菜肴道道色香味俱全,大人吃得好满足!好吧,不免俗来道甜品如何?这榴莲雪糕冰沙 Es Argin Mamiri (RM12) 只将马六甲和椰糖外露,把榴莲 (Merah品种) 和雪糕给藏得真好!「正宗苏拉威西吃法是将所有材料匀和一起,这样最好吃!」多谢Bryan指点,大人这就动手了!果王与雪糕再加上马六甲椰糖,只能说绝配!大人强力推荐!「之前也有尝试使用其他品种的榴莲,但唯有Merah最能带出这道甜品的滋味与色彩!」连甜品的色香味都顾得面面俱到,真有你的!

Cool off with a glass of Es Argin Mamiri, a crushed-ice drink with peanuts, Gula Melaka, coconut and DURIANS – a fitting finale to our gastronomic journey to the east. Unlike most other durian-inspired desserts, Bryan and team have literally tasted tonnes of durians from Tangkak to Segamat, before finally settling for Durian Merah, which gives it a smoother texture that blends perfectly with the ingredients. Again the natives like to mix things around so there is no harm in following suit for maximum enjoyment!

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「禀报大人,小的担心轿子支撑不了大人,已派人回去换顶大轿子来接你了~」

这么多有滋有味的经典印尼佳肴,难怪今午身心灵超级大满足啊!大人就在这里卖个关子,看到上图那四碗叁峇辣椒吗?里头有一碗特别辣噢!大人我是不会告诉你暗器在哪儿的 (逃~)

咱们新山与印尼美食可谓「新心❤️相印」啊!非常感激亲切的 Bryan 为大人揭开了苏拉威西美食迷雾,后会有期!

Oh dear, this was a difficult list to “digest” without drooling too much but we made it, thanks to Bryan for the fruitful insights to the world of Sulawesi Cuisine. We shall leave you to savour an authentic Indonesian culinary experience for yourself, and let us know your favourite dish, for we will be back again before it is too soon! Sampai jumpa lagi…

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Sulawesi Cuisine @ Mount Austin

Address: 55 Jalan Austin Height 8/8, Taman Mount Austin 81100
Reservation: +607 – 361 0907
Time: Mon – Sun: 11am – 10pm
Email: sulawesi.malaysia@gmail.com
NO PORK, NO LARD

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