过了这个村,就没这个店。相逢恨晚的滋味 Sprout – Fantastic fusion of flavours not to be missed!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人   资料 Sub-editor 郑大人]

SPROUT 暂时关闭并准备搬迁到新的地点。请关注他们的粉丝专页以获取最及时的信息! SPROUT IS NOW TEMPORARILY CLOSED and will be moving to a new location. Kindly follow them on Facebook for the latest update!

大人必须要对 Sprout 说声,我们来晚了。

不,大人其实并没有迟到,只是相逢恨晚。Sprout 选址于此,对大人来说,甚有 “过了这个村,就没这个店” 的含义。自去年8月1日掀开帷幕后,多少次天桥底下的呼啸而过,才能成就今日的聚首。望着顶上那复古灯箱上的61,大人偏执地自行解读为“留意”,生命里总是藏了好多不经意的留意,等待某一刻的静止回眸,若没有一颗懂得欣赏的心,再多的刻意也是徒然。

This review has been long pending, but still, it’s better late than never, right?

Nestled in a nondescript corner single-storey shop lot just under an overhead pedestrian bridge, this simple eatery is easy to miss if you’re driving by at high speed. Slow down as your car approach the bridge, and a mini “Sprout” signboard that sprouted “out of nowhere” will help you locate the shop. Despite its low-key location, word has gotten out that this humble restaurant is unlike anything that has debuted in Johor Bahru before since its inception on 1 August 2015. After all, great minds taste alike, so it’s only a matter of time before our gastronomy paths crossed as we finally checked in to check out what’s cooking at Sprout!

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Sprout 的勇气何止于选址?挑战食客将味蕾全开,并把味道留在记忆中,才是他们的看家本领。每一季更新的餐单与零距离的开放式厨房,没有几分自信,怎能自告奋勇让食物当信差?从新山市郊如金芭 (Kempas)、笨珍 (Pontian) 到古来 (Kulai) 等为最新鲜的美味寻根,正是 Chef Mui Chef Joseph 对料理的信念,坐在料理台旁的大人,看着眼前和谐的五重奏所演绎的食韵,满心期待。

15岁时既与烹饪结下不解之缘,两位主厨这些年来的焦点始终离不开美食。身为海外回流的一分子,两人的料理足迹走过大半个地球,始于新加坡,尔后前往英国伦敦与挪威奥斯陆的米其林星级餐厅精进厨艺,最后选择在家乡低调扎根。主打欧式料理风格的 Sprout出其不意地以本土食材为主轴,细分为5大类 (Snacks, Soil, Sea, Land, Desserts的餐单皆可看见熟悉的道地食材踪影。大人强力推荐看官们选择他们家的 3-Course Menu ( Snacks on the house + Choose 1 from Soil + Land or Sea + Choose 1 from Desserts),价格从 RM103 – RM185 不等,绝对超值。

Aptly described as brave and unpretentious by our friend Peggy, it doesn’t take us long to be in awe of the young chefs’ courage to set up shop in one of JB’s oldest residential area to keep overhead costs low, so that they can focus on creating a gratifying gastronomy experience for discerning diners. We are all the more impressed with how the culinary team is always finding new and innovative ways to cook local produce, depending on what ingredients they can source fresh from the farms in Kempas and Kulai, or the sea off Pontian.

Chef Mui and Chef Joseph grew their passion for cooking since the age of 15, having honed their skills in Singapore and London, as well as a short stint in a Michelin-stared restaurant in Oslo, Norway, to whip up a sustainable cuisine like no other. The menu at Sprout may be limited in terms of choices but not quality, and is clearly divided into a few sections for ease of selection: Snacks, Soil, Sea, Land and Desserts. For best value, opt for their elegant 3-Course Menu with your choice of main course ranging from RM103 – RM 185 and Snacks on the house, sit back and waiting to be wowed over.

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新山近几年来开始融入了Fine Dining 的饮食概念,而 Sprout 所奉行的路线则是将 CasualFine Dining 完美结合,在这拥有30人座位的专属美食空间用餐,并没有一般的拘谨,让人轻易卸下日理万机的疲累心防 (每天只营业4小时,晚餐时段 6pm-10pm,星期一店休) 。这在欧洲已日趋崛起的新型饮食美学,讲究的是有质感的当季食材加上厨师对土地与食材的熟悉与所倾注的艺术创作情感,质与量所呈现出的平衡,足以让食客们好好静下心来关注所有食材所相互带出的震撼,每一口吃下之际,都是舌尖上的飨宴。

We could be forgiven for thinking that we are suddenly teleported to northern Europe for the evening, with its minimalist and casual dining concept creating an intimate setting no matter how packed the place could be. Serving only 4 hours daily from Tuesday to Sunday (Monday off), connoisseurs of haute cuisine will be happy to know that this fusion between Fine Dining and Casual Dining concept is now quietly sprouting within the city. This culminated in a fitting tribute to the depth and diversity of culinary options that were commonplace only in the West, but now available in JB too!

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大人还未到访前早已听闻多位城中老饕倾力推荐。爽朗自信的 Chef Mui 来自古来血液里流淌着主厨们惯有的食材坚持,与天马行空的无奢侈美食论 (精致餐点并非高级食材代名词)。他认为,本地的食材虽较为普遍,迢遥而来的空运入口高级食材则因耗时过长(除肉类外,因本地肉质较为不稳定),新鲜程度肯定无法与在地食材攀比,相较之下,他更倾向以精创煮意来为新鲜度十足的在地食材妆点。点餐时,Sprout 会先询问食客是否对某些食材过敏及食材偏好,若是选择料理吧台座位,则有机会与主厨作近距离的品尝交流。

Hailing from Kulai and still at a tender age of 25 (for a chef), Chef Mui is on a mission to educate diners on new ways to appreciate local fresh produce, except for a handful air-flown or exotic ingredients such as wagyu beef or Iberico pork. Chef Mui also took time to explain every single dish they served, clearly very proud of their creations given the emphasis they placed on the freshness of their produce. The open-concept kitchen enticed us even more as we always prefer a chat and to observe the chefs in action, while secretly learn some plating skills. While the kitchen space is limited, the orchestrated flow which saw Chef Mui and his team dancing around with dexterity and artistry, as they exchange places between the oven, stove and various spots was certainly a sight to behold.

Soda 水果苏打

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不饮咖啡不饮酒,那就来杯苏打吧!苏打属弱碱性,有助于缓解消化不良、中和胃酸、增进食欲等,看官们若平日酷爱属酸性的肉类海鲜,不妨点杯苏打来平衡体内的酸碱值。 Sprout 共备有5种水果苏打饮料 ,大人品尝了其中四种各自精彩的沁凉口味 (从左至右): Lemon, Thyme (RM12) 、Cucumber, Mint and Basil (RM12)、Guava, Barley and Lemon (RM12)、Passion fruits, Lime and Mint (RM15)。「四杯都好喝!」酸甜各有所好,大人这回不偏心。

The sodas at Sprout make for an inviting pre-dinner drink, with the ingredients whisked together to create a chilly, frothy libation that also serves as a refreshing palate cleanser in between and after meals. Not in any particular order of preference, the Lemon and Thyme; Cucumber, Mint and Basil; Guava, Barley and Lemon; Passion fruits, Lime and Mint won all of our votes, hands down!

Snacks 精致小点 – Chicken Skins

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Snacks 精致小点之一的 Chicken Skins (Liver Mousse, Grapes, RM12),以鸡皮为底座,点缀上鸡肝慕斯与葡萄。毫米之脆的鸡皮有着薄饼的口感,咬下之际鸡皮原香实力展露无疑,「好脆!这怎么一点都不油腻!」大人惊呼着。细咀慢嚼,舌尖上的鸡肝慕斯呈沙酥口感,清咸之余还能尝到葡萄的微甜,作为今日的第一道料理,大人的[食欲观]由此萌芽,与店名正好来个呼应 🙂 。

Not the most common item on most Snacks menu by any standards, the irresistible Chicken Skins were right up there with some of the best “crackers” we have tasted, and they are surprisingly crispy and gluten-free even when paired with the creamy liver mousse! Looks like we are off to a great start, as we looked over the shoulder and wondered what’s next…

Snacks 精致小点 – Tortilla Chips

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Snacks 精致小点之二的 Tortilla Chips (Peas, Rosemary Oil, RM12),墨西哥玉米片 Tortilla Chips 同样不油不腻,搭着蘸上迷迭香油的青豆泥,能明显感受清香的豆皮与玉米片在嘴里软脆相呼应,「这吞下后怎么有回甘的感觉呀~」

The Tortilla Chips may taste ordinary, but the accompanying green peas puree infused with Rosemary Oil taste incredibly flavourful with every dip, leaving us craving for more and polish our plates clean!

Snacks 精致小点 – Toast

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Snacks 精致小点之三的 Toast (Hummus, Fermented Cabbage, RM14),「噢,怎么这道小点有中东的味道?」原来鷹嘴豆泥里小茴香 (也称孜然) 出其不意轧上一脚,浓郁的独特气味再配上发酵后的酸白菜,有层次得来却又不抢味。

The final Snacks of the day are the crispy Toast with hummus dressed with black olive crumbs and sauerkraut. If the starters are anything to go by for what is to come, we simply can’t wait for the rest of our meals to be served.

Soil  – 红萝卜料理 Carrots

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这道归属在 Soil 的红萝卜料理 Carrots (Roast in honey, puree & pickled, ricotta cheese, olives crumbs, wheat berries, lemon vinaigrette, RM33)菜如其名以红萝卜为当家花旦。裹着蜜糖香的红萝卜,有着微酸甜却不腻的多层次口感,妆以菜泥、自制芝士、小麦粒、橄榄屑、檸檬醋汁等,不容小觑的组合。大人觉得 Sprout 的料理都有项特色,一道菜多重滋味,简单来说就是每一口主角再搭以不同的配料,就能呈现风格各异的滋味,「这味道怎么与我向来所吃的红萝卜不同啊!」超乎想像的滋味,好神奇!

For those of you who dislike carrots for their raw taste or bitterness, think again. When your Carrots come roasted in honey, topped with housemade ricotta cheese, wheat berries, olives crumb, lemon vinaigrette, we can assure you this will forever be love at first bite from now on.

Soil  – 栗子麦粥料理 Chestnuts

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不喜肉类的看官们,大人再推荐一道归属在 Soil 的栗子麦粥料理 Chestnuts (Buckwheat porridge, sautéed mushroom, poached egg, mushroom ketchup, RM33)。独据一角的栗子泡沫,以威士忌慢煮再以高压容器制成泡沫 (如图所示),搭上荞麦粥、炒蘑菇、水煮嫩蛋等,能否让大人再次折服呢?「想不到荞麦粥这么顺滑可口。」大人们异口同声说道。微咸的乔麦粥与水波蛋的确讨喜,试着再匀和其他食材各自品尝… 大人正式宣布:味蕾擂台上这道 Chestnuts 胜出了!

If the carrot is not your “plate of greens”, the Chestnuts may jolly well blow your mind away. Made from chestnuts foam slow cooked in whisky, and finely balanced by the slight savouriness of the buckwheat porridge, sautéed mushrooms, mushroom ketchup and poached egg, this is our definite winner from the Soil category.

Sea – 烟熏三文鱼 Smoked Salmon

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这道并未在本季餐单中现身的烟熏三文鱼 Smoked Salmon (Smoked salmon with spices & herbs, basil emulsion, fennel puree, pickled fennel, burnt cucumber, fish roe vinaigrette),送入口中那一刻,「好嫩!」大人此刻只能扬眉点头精简表示,深怕一说话就分了心。当 Chef Mui 拿着喷火枪火炙纹理分明的三文鱼时,大人内心的澎湃可想而知。外身微焦而内里软嫩即化,滋味咸香,正是大人最爱的成熟度啊!「我们使用了调味料与香料草药将三文鱼腌渍了8个小时,再进行烟熏及火炙。」Chef Mui说道。淋上罗勒液的烟熏三文鱼搭上茴香酱、醃制茴香、醃制黄瓜及鱼蛋等,色与味皆醇浓,真让人回味无穷啊!大人一定要再来见你一面!

Making its first appearance, ahead of its full debut in the fall season is the Smoked Salmon. Infused with spices & herbs for up to 8 hours, the salmon is then meticulously fired with a blowtorch until the surface has a slightly charred appearance. Squeeze over lemon juice and sprinkle with sea salt, before presenting the dish with basil emulsion, fennel puree, pickled fennel, burnt cucumber, fish roe vinaigrette. What a culinary masterpiece!

Sea – 香煎比目鱼 Sautéed wild caught Sole Fish

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另一道海鲜料理为香煎比目鱼 Sautéed wild caught Sole Fish (Prawns, green peas puree, braised fennel, cabbage, lemon & capers beurre blanc, RM56) ,是以牛油香煎比目鱼,再搭以鲜虾、青豆泥、烤卤茴香、白菜等,还有一小撮褐色的粉末,「那是我们将面包屑加上黄糖煮至略焦,再打成粉状。」Chef Mui 解释了大人们的疑惑。大人对于混搭吃法屡试不腻,尤其是那貌不惊人的面包粉末,真没想到这总让人忽略的小东西竟然在这儿发光了呢!这道比目鱼真的颠覆了大人对鱼味的既定印象 (绝非你所 “看到而认为” 的味道)。

Not to be outdone, the Sautéed wild caught Sole Fish is next, with the fresh catch cooked in butter, sautéed prawns, green peas puree, braised fennel, fermented cabbage and lemon. The crustacean flavour of the capers beurre blanc sauce complemented the sweet Sole Fish flesh very well, and the result? More polished plates, much to the bewilderment and delight from Chef Mui and his service team.

Land – 法式烤鸭胸 Roasted French Duck Breast

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这道法式烤鸭胸 Roasted French Duck Breast (with lavender spiced, salt-baked beetroots, hazelnuts praline, berries, jus, RM85) 颜色耀眼地一上桌就让人猛打量。看看那鲜美多汁的鸭胸与褐脆的鸭皮外衣,刀具一下好软嫩,皮衣口感完美、肉质却又极富嚼劲,满嘴生香,大人情不自禁又再划下了一刀。一旁的甜菜根也没让鸭肉专美,以岩盐烤煮甜菜根2个小时至软,加上酸甜开胃的黑莓,再淋上以橄榄、榛果与鸡汤熬煮的酱汁,真是道适合细嚼品尝的美味。

The beautifully plated Roasted French Duck Breast comes with seared, roasted French duck breast coated with lavender spiced, surrounded by a medley of salt-baked beetroots, berries and mizuna. What we liked most was the tangy touch of hazelnuts praline dressing, which gave the overall dish a unique spin.

Land – 伊比利亚黑猪脸颊 Slow Cooked Iberico Pork Jowl

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号称世界最好吃的猪肉 – 西班牙伊比利亚黑猪,由于活动量大,脂肪含量与分布极为均匀,其美食地位可与和牛旗鼓相当。这道西班牙伊比利亚黑猪脸颊 Slow Cooked Iberico Pork Jowl (Parsnip puree, compressed pears, walnuts crumble, pickled grapes, orange sauce, RM70) ,含有丰富的胶原蛋白,浸泡在含各式香料的盐水中3个小时后,再耗30个小时无间断恒温将脂肪组织煮至软化,猪脸颊在封闭式的空间内不停以自身油脂循环,长时间锁住其润泽状态,可想而知肉质有多香嫩可口。微煎后的皮衣香脆微咸,淋上酸甜的香橙牛油酱汁后巧妙中和了滋味,再缀以牛蒡酱、压缩梨、核桃碎、醃葡萄等,不得不说这道伊比利亚黑猪脸颊彻彻底底征服了嘴刁的大人啊!

For those wanting a heartier meal, go for the Slow Cooked Iberico Pork Jowl that is infused with spices and sea salt. Slow cooked for 30 hours to retain the ideal moisture, texture and taste of the meat for the ultimate enjoyment, the juicy and succulent pork cheek could be pulled apart with just a fork. Add these to the parsnip puree, compressed pears, walnuts crumble, pickled grapes and orange sauce, we had possibly one of the best pork meat ever, seriously!

Desserts 甜点 – 法式榛果马林 Hazelnuts Meringue

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完美的一餐怎能缺了甜点呢?这道法式榛果马林 Hazelnuts Meringue (Yoghurt, camomile sorbet, chestnut cream, poached grapes & raisins, RM33) 里的优格乳与注入甘菊的雪酪皆由 Sprout 自家调制,缀以栗子奶油、葡萄与葡萄干、榛果碎,酸甜交融,沁凉滑绵。「沾上榛果碎的雪酪好香啊!」大人们频频点头低调的大地色系原来也深藏华丽的极致滋味。

The Hazelnut Meringue exuded a faint nutty taste and complemented the chestnut cream with its crunchiness, but it’s the chamomile sorbet that saved the day, which delicately balanced the flavours from the poached grapes & raisins.

Desserts 甜点 – 咖啡慕斯 Espresso Mousse

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「奇亞籽饼脆中带甜,咖啡的微苦,百香果的微酸,还真能搭啊!」大人惊呼。这道咖啡慕斯 Espresso Mousse (Coffee sorbet, gingerbread, passion fruit jelly, lemon puree & crackers, RM30) 的多重滋味让人无法忽视。同样由自家调制的咖啡雪酪,再以姜饼、百香果果冻、柠檬泥与奇亞籽脆饼点妆,酸甜润味十足却又微苦回甘,沁人脾胃啊~

Need some more sweet pep in your step? Look no further than this coffee-infused Espresso Mousse, which will leave your sweet tooth and caffeine cravings satisfied, complete with gingerbread, coffee sorbet, passion fruit jelly, lemon and crackers.

Desserts 甜点 – 黄梨白巧克力雪酪 Braised Pineapple

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第三道甜点里的主角竟是本地蛮常见的黄梨,而且是取较少被使用的中间茎核部位。黄梨白巧克力雪酪 Braised Pineapple (in rum & caramel, white chocolate sorbet, coriander coulis, spiced mango, RM30) 的黄梨茎以75度高温在朗姆酒与焦糖的汁液中烹煮90分钟,略带苦味,搭上白巧克力雪酪、香菜和芒果卷片等,「好有青木瓜沙拉的滋味噢!」大人直觉应是香菜的提味才有此错觉。

The climax of our dessert repertoire was surprisingly underrated, with the Braised Pineapple providing the unlikely back drop for the grand finale. The pineapple was well braised in rum and caramel at 75°C for over 90 minutes without losing its texture, while the white chocolate sorbet added a welcome respite to the slight bitter aftertaste. Fortunately, the coriander coulis and spiced compressed mango added a savoury and refreshing touch to the dish which is reminiscent of our favourite Thai green papaya salad, but perhaps the fusion has taken our taste palettes a little too far. This is worth trying nevertheless.

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Cooking is like painting or writing a song. Just as there are only so many notes or colors, there are only so many flavors – it’s how you combine them that sets you apart. – Wolfgang Puck

每一季都在茁壮成长的 Sprout 团队,孕育萌芽一年后,经过时间与环境的考验,新梢初长成。谢谢你们为在地的老饕们献出了令人激赏的料理,大人茅塞顿开 (终于了解为何有那么多食家们如此倾力推荐 😀 )!

Drawing their inspiration from the Austrian-born American celebrity chef and restaurateur, the cuisine served at Sprout was prepared with utmost sincerity. We can taste the explosion of flavours within each element in every single dish, highlighting the passion, dedication and creative direction of Chef Mui and his team in bringing together an elevated experience and culture for local communities.

The blurring of traditional cuisine and consumers’ discerning appetite for new and elevated experiences are the inspiration behind some of the rave reviews that have made their rounds in the past twelve months.

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除了能亲自登门造访 Sprout,大人建议食客们若能预先订位更佳。想要来场私人精致美食餐饮派对让嘉宾们惊艳?那就立即联系 Sprout 索取配套详情吧!

号外~ 崭新的户外 Snacks 区已于近日开放,餐谱与室内各异,开放时间则为 6-12pm。

Not the easiest place to find or to park our car, but that didn’t bother us and neither should it hold you back. Sprout is worth your trip but do call ahead to secure your table, and guess what, their beautiful outdoor tables are finally set and ready to serve you snacks and drinks all night long as we speak!

 

Sprout JB

Address: 61, Exit Jalan Tebrau, Bukit Ungku Aziz, 80300 Johor Bahru, Johor

Business Hours: Tuesday – Sunday (6pm-10pm) 
Reservation: +6011 – 2181 6118
Email: sprout.restaurant.jb@gmail.com
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结案陈词 Verdict
  • 环境 Ambience
    8
  • 价格 Price
    7
  • 食物选择 Variety
    7
  • 服务态度 Service
    9
  • 味道点评 Taste
    9
The Good
The Bad
0
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