鸡肉们的前世今生精华,熬成了这一碗碗号称「拉面界胶原蛋白」的神將拉麵! Shinsho Ramen – No pork? no prob! This slurplicious and collagen-rich Paitan broth actually leave us asking for more!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 刘大人]

自从某一日看了部日剧「爱吃拉面的小泉同学」后,大人我的拉面魂便久久不愿离开。每当想起小泉同学为了品尝美味拉面的执着,还有那把汤底一饮而尽后,所展露出的幸福神情与笑容,大人就无法阻止自己将车开往拉面店,自制力瞬间跌至谷底,只因为我太想拥有小泉同学的那种幸福感了。

Watching how Ms. Koizumi loves her ramen noodles in《Ramen Daisuki Koizumi-san》and consumes it with ravenous delight, we couldn’t help but felt inspired to scour Johor Bahru and the country in search of the perfect bowl of ramen, one we could hear screams of “shiawase”.

提起日本拉面,看官们脑海中会先联想到的是汤浓味鲜的豚骨汤底吧?大人平日最爱的口味亦是如此,若非近来在社交媒体上瞧见许多饕客盛赞的「鸡白汤」拉面,大人或许至今仍未能走出豚骨汤底的五指山呢!

据大人的日籍好友芳子透露,以鸡肉久烹的「鸡白汤」汤底乃近五至十年来才在日本悄悄崛起,而且市场似乎越来越走俏。

早在八月上旬,被大人我誉为「拉面界胶原蛋白」的乳白色汤汁其实已悄悄在新山南钥城大东方保险公司的底层见客了!

Mention ramen, the staples that come into mind are tonkotsu, shoyu, miso and shio. In recent years, there is a boom for a new flavour in Japan, and it is getting so huge this past couple of years that we can now find many newly opened eateries, particularly ones owned by young masters are focusing on this new trendy soup type. Ladies and gentlemen, may we present Toripaitan Ramen, a fresn new ramen broth that took Japan by storm that’s setting a new standard for how rich ramen broth can be. Instead of adding to the bevvy of tonkotsu-broth ramen joints in Johor Bahru, a low-key ramen restaurant located just below the Great Eastern branch in SouthKey has quietly open since early August 2019.

「取名神将,乃其拥有守护、吉祥的含义。」神将拉面里,真就只得鸡肉一味,这在主张美食应该多元化的社会里,纯粹得好不真实。其实在日本料理店里,职人们各有专精乃常见之事,大人今日在这宽敞地可容65人的神将里,总算可以了解原来鸡肉们在这儿终于找到了赏识它们的主人和客人啊!

Drawing inspiration from the guardian gods which signified a source of blessings and protection, the 65-seater Shinsho boasts a warm and brightly-lit interior inspired by the traditional Japanese style of decor with the prominent usage of neutral colours and wood furnishings. We can get up close with the chefs if we choose to sit at the long bar table surrounding the kitchen, while we’re seated intimately with other patrons.

一口流利的日语,与芳子聊起日式料理时,眼里立即充满热情的主人家 Raymond,原来自19岁起便居于日本学艺。身兼主厨的他,在彼岸新加坡原已是数家著名日本餐厅的主理人,神将拉面则是其在本地所设的第一家拉面餐馆,「我们的面条都从日本进口,而且全店只以鸡肉入菜,能让更多族群享用最醇厚的鸡白汤拉面。」

A native of Penang, Raymond became interested in Japanese culture after working in a Japanese restaurant back home and decided to pursue his culinary interest in Japan at the age of 19. Fluent in Japanese, the restauranteur is also the proud chef-owner of a few notable contemporary Japanese restaurants in Singapore, before turning his attention closer to home with his first F&B venture in Malaysia. Considering that much of the Japanese ramen we had stemmed from a pork broth, those who do not consume pork will be missing out the chance to enjoy this popular Japanese cuisine. Taking this into careful consideration, Raymond opts to come out with a series of ramen speciality where chicken would occupy a strong foothold in its new menu, with much of the ingredients such as the noodles imported directly from Japan!

总是在两岸间奋力冲刺的 Raymond,坦言新山的料理选择确实需要注入更多新元素与特色,边享用着香脆炸鸡皮 (Crispy Chicken Skin, RM5) 的大人我深表认同,「话说当我将此鸡皮靓照寄返府中聊天室时,一伙饿人盛赞这鸡皮未免也炸得太好了吧,油色好干净!你们真是好眼光!这鸡皮不油不腻,脆口宜人,大人都快沦陷了!」

如今千篇一律的餐饮概念随处可见,老饕们若是遇着让人食指大动的馆子,总会多了份惺惺相惜之情。

Serving ramen on a strictly no pork and no lard circumstance, especially in a multi-racial country like Malaysia, meant that virtually everyone and anyone can get to enjoy this delectable favourite from Japan. As the latest ramen fad in Japan, Raymond is quick to capture this new trend and bringing it into the local scene with its paitan-based offerings. Now having just ramen seems too plain without any side dishes, so if you’re a chicken skin lover like us, you’d probably agree the greasy goodness of these aromatic Crispy Chicken Skin never fails to hit the spot, except that they managed to fry the chicken without as much flour batter, giving that skin more crunch but with less grease.

Now if you are game for something new or love pure chicken goodness, look no further than this new kid on the block. For all you know, you might love this so much that you would make good of this tori paitan as your preferred ramen choice from now on!

神将の鶏白湯は
Shinsho Chicken Paitan Broth

开放式厨房大剌剌地把煮食场景无码高清播放,立体的视觉与嗅觉飨宴此时正在大人面前流畅呈现。早前,大人提及神将拉面里只得鸡肉一味,而这在日本近年来所盛行的「鸡白汤」汤头,在东京街头想要朝圣的拥趸人潮已有超越豚骨汤头之势。据悉,每日在神将里以纯净水质熬煮长达六个小时的「鸡白汤」汤头,意即豚骨汤的鸡汁版,浓郁的滋味主要来自于以大份量的全鸡只、鸡皮油脂、葱油及食蔬熬煮而成,「鸡只不能冷藏后再解冻,滋味会较为逊色。」

大人我热烈期待这一大碗经过熬煮后分解的乳白汤底,能透过嘴来到我脸上,赐予我满满的胶原蛋白!

For the uninitiated, chicken paitan broth is the chicken-based cousin of the ubiquitous creamy and rich tonkotsu ramen broth made from pork. The thick soup which is favoured by Shinsho comes with absolutely no poultry smell brings out the savoury flavours using large amounts of whole chickens, chicken bones with meat, chicken legs and several kinds of vegetables with only pure water slow-cooked over a long period.

Simmered for over six hours, the broth isn’t offered there and then. Instead, it is served the next day after being chilled overnight to heighten its rich and gelatinous quality to achieve a milky and flavourful broth that’s good to the last drop. In addition to being delicious, white soup is also rich in collagen.

鶏つくね
Chicken Meatball with Raw Egg Yolk

鶏つくね (Chicken Meatball with Raw Egg Yolk, RM9) 味鲜咸,口感既扎实又弹嫩,蘸点生蛋黄与特调酱汁,你这鸡肉串真是嗨翻了大人我的唇齿,「在美食的世界里,自私无罪。」

我想一人独享,应该没问题吧?

Chicken Meatball with Raw Egg Yolk? Yes, please and just look at its sheer size! Loaded with plenty of meat, the raw appeal of eggs is also an invitation for us to dip the meatball to give it a slippery smooth texture. Oishiiok ne!

自家製 味付け雲 天口
Homemade Flavoured Wanton (4 pcs)

以鸡肉自制而成的饺子自家製 味付け雲 天口 (Homemade Flavoured Wanton, 4 pcs, RM9),不论是内馅、酱汁还是铺顶的葱丝,都被大人我一扫而尽,脆咸多汁的非凡滋味,让我至今还记得送入嘴后小鹿乱撞的口感,「一般人或许很难想象大人我吃个饺子也那么感动是怎么回事,其实自小便不吃红肉的我,总是与饺子无缘,今天居然能大口大口吃着不含一丝猪肉的饺子,眼泪都要滴入饺子馅了。」

我会再来找你的。

Interestingly, Shinsho does not serve pork at all, so the wanton’s stuffing is made of chicken that is fresh and seasoned in a homemade sauce that leaned to the lighter side. With the natural sweetness coming from the sufficiently juicy and flavourful filling inside, we can keep devouring these beautifully shaped crescents without being too sick or having the taste becoming too monotonous. So if you’re someone who doesn’t fancy pork, these Homemade Flavoured Wanton might be just the fit for you. And despite its gorgeously bronzed bottom giving that satisfying crispness, we could still snack on them all we want without feeling too unhealthy too. 

酱油拉麵
Soy Sauce Broth Ramen

熬制了12个小时的酱油汤底,酱油拉面 (Soy Sauce Broth Ramen, RM23) 里那瞧得见的胶原蛋白,让人眼里发光,大人我化身小泉同学的好日子要来临啦!「这里没有叉烧哦!取而代之的是以低温慢煮的超软嫩鸡胸!」

Left to simmer for over 12 hours, the Soy Sauce Broth Ramen was light and savoury with some sweet notes. No chasu, no problem. In their place are the chicken slices prepared sous-vide to perfection and were evidently soft and tender, which we thoroughly appreciated.

日式拉面常予人较重咸的口味,对于神将拉面汤头相当满意的芳子就告诉我们,日本本土的咸味更是有过之无不及啊!与芳子多次四处觅食的大人我觉得,「大和民族对于咸味的接受度绝非我们能想像的呢!」

Having joined Yoshiko on various “find-dining” expeditions for authentic tastes of Japan in JB, we’ve more or less acquired the Japanese tastebuds for “umami”, but there are still a lot of people out there who just can’t handle that massive hit of salty grease. If super salty ramen remains too much umami for your taste, the soy sauce version at Shinsho is excellent for those who enjoy the taste of savoury broth, yet prefer something lighter on the palate.

追加 Add On

  • 鶏 チャーシュー Chicken Breast (5 slices) RM 12.00
  • 味つけ卵 Japanese Flavoured Egg RM 3.00
  • 海苔 Japanese Seaweed RM 2.00
  • ともろこし Sweet Corn RM 2.00
  • メンマ Bamboo Shoot RM 3.00
  • もやし Bean Sprout RM 2.00
  • 白ご飯 Steam Rice RM 3.00
  • 鶏 にんにく炒飯 Chicken Garlic Fried Rice RM 12.00

特製黒ニンニク拉麵
Signature Black Garlic Broth Ramen

大人在追剧时也发现,「食欲与食育,是分不开的环节。」在日本若是饕客想为刚上桌的拉面拍照留念,一般皆会先请示师傅以表尊重,「因为在拉面上桌后,需以一秒一的时间先饮一啖汤,接着再品尝面条才是正解。」

看师傅抛甩的动作,其实还蛮疗愈人心的。

While we prefer to say that there are no rules as ramen is meant to be enjoyed and not fussed over, it pays to learn how to slurp ramen without looking silly, especially in front of our Japanese counterpart. It is also completely acceptable to take photos of our food, but if we want to take pictures of the ramen master cooking or anything inside the shop other than our bowl, we should politely ask for clearance.

After all, watching our food being prepared right before our eyes is a feast on its own, agreed?

这碗特製黒ニンニク拉麵 (Signature Black Garlic Broth Ramen, RM29) 的零味精汤头层次分明,黑蒜居功至伟,是大人今日的心头好,「玉蜀黍、食蔬、溏心蛋、嫩鸡胸… 还有浓郁的汤头与弹嫩的拉面,难怪连主人家也将之列为最爱。」

其实被这汤头给掳获的何止主人家呢?大人真想请小泉同学也来大快朵颐一番啊!芳子还盛赞,「这溏心蛋 is so perfect!」

For those who want your ramen to have a little more kick, this Signature Black Garlic Broth Ramen will satisfy your craving. Using the same paitan broth and toppings, the only difference was a dollop of black garlic oil. But oh, what a difference it made! If you prefer intense, pungent flavours as we do, a good stir of the oil into the broth will result in an aromatic and fragrant slurp with a long-lasting garlicky aftertaste.

The ajitama was spot on, with the marinade permeating the entire egg while the yolk had a nice gooey, lava-like consistency as well. Perfect!

辛味噌拉麵
Spicy Bean Paste Broth Ramen

稀薄的汤底在这里无立足之地啊!端上桌的每一碗拉面都搭配着醇厚的汤头,即便是辛味噌拉麵 (Spicy Bean Paste Broth Ramen, RM25) 也不例外,颇有本土浓郁咖喱的影子。「夹起面条时,还能瞧见汁液紧紧不离面条呢!」

话说每个人对于自身可接受的辣度皆不相同,今日的辣度一入口先是让大人一惊,或许是我太轻敌了,远比我想像中辣得多呢!

To us, a meal would always be better with a spicy kick to it, so the Spicy Bean Paste Broth Ramen is a no-brainer for us, with the noticeable differences being the addition of chilli oil and a little mound of bean paste.

Initially, all we could taste was the curry-like creaminess that came with the dish. As the seconds ticked by, however, the spiciness from the chilli oil started to spread throughout our mouths. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the ramen a lot as underneath the heat of the dish, we could still taste the umami flavour from the broth. Our stomach felt a little bit hot, but it didn’t leave any after-effects for us to suffer through even after wiping our bowl clean.

照り焼き沾麵
Teriyaki Tsukemen

「这照烧鸡排真的太美味了!焦香恰到好处!」遇到极度合心意的料理就会词穷的大人,这一碗沾麵,大人真心推荐。

Another of our recent favourite is the Tsukemen, where the teriyaki chicken with a sweet honey-like glaze along with the other components of the dish are placed neatly above the noodles, and it comes with a separate dipping bowl containing the broth for the noodles.

照り焼き沾麵 (Teriyaki Tsukemen, RM31) 的蘸汁其实也以鸡白汤的汤底制成,只是这在日本近年风行的沾麵食用法可非人人皆知,这下子大人当然得有请芳子为我们示范 (上图),「只需夹起适量的面条蘸入汤汁即可,与荞麦面的食用法雷同,万勿将汤汁都倒入拉面里拌搅哦!」

For best enjoyment, do what the Japanese do and dip our noodles into the bowl, and the chewy noodles will be coated with the rich creaminess of the paitan broth, each bite is a delightful combination of flavour and texture. Like Japanese soba, never pour the entire bowl of soup onto the noodles!

经过了胶原蛋白的无私洗礼,大人深感进门前与进门后的颜面相差了十岁!若非亲眼目睹 神将拉面 Shinsho Ramen 碗里盛着的香浓乳白汤汁,绝对想不着这满满的胶原蛋白竟是出自于鸡肉们的前世今生精华,在这颜值当道的时代,若不定期来补充,似乎说不过去。「让嘴里愉悦,脸上添光,大人的一石二鸟之计,绝对事半功倍!」

Chicken isn’t usually as flavourful as pork, but at Shinsho Ramen they do it just right. In our opinion, the paitan broth is equal to a tonkotsu broth in terms of hearty flavour, and it’s a welcome change from the pork-based ramen but equally satisfying and delicious. With only a handful of variations on the menu as of now, Shinsho Ramen will be looking at introducing new items very soon. Frankly, we don’t think they need any more.

Do us, and your skin, a favour and make sure you get this.

 

Shinsho Ramen 神将拉面

📍 #01-02, Block A, Komersil Southkey Mozek Persiaran Southkey 1, Kota Southkey, 81100 Johor Bahru, Johor
📞 +607-338 2307
🕙 Daily from 11:00am to 10.00pm
💻 Shinsho Ramen 神将拉面

🍽️ NO PORK, NO LARD

 

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