土地里长出来的独立美食工作室 Rowan & Parsley – from plant to plate, a greener culinary pasture awaits…

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人   资料 Sub-editor 郑大人]

ROWAN & PARSLEY 暂时关闭以进行装修与翻新。请关注他们的粉丝专页以获取最及时的信息! ROWAN & PARSLEY IS NOW TEMPORARILY CLOSED for renovation until further notice. Kindly follow them on Facebook for the latest update!

踏入了 Rowan & Parsley Food Atelier 这扇门后,门外的喧嚣早已不得而知。这是一所从土地里长出来的建筑吗?大人不禁莞尔一笑,因为一分钟前的车水马龙,仿如上个世纪的事。自然生态里的表与里,既对立而又相生相依,在这里就是最佳注解。就如同费时半年打造的落脚处,你我以为的大门入口竟是厂房的原后门,而后门才是前门。

易经里说的:“形而上者谓之道,形而下者谓之器”。这里的一切好像皆与之有些许关联:人与自然食材的互动关系;社会对于精致餐饮的接受度;有异於现实世界倡导的经营模式。

这家开业已有年余的独立美食工作室,鲜少为自己发声与接受采访,食客到此多为口耳相传特地前来。线上媒体对其褒贬不一的食评或让人踌躇,然而坚信大自然必有其规律的工作室,却屡受旅居於本地的国外人士垂青,西式精致餐点在新山这块茁壮的土地上有其安身立地之所吗?然而,餐饮业的争名逐利,似乎并不存在於 Sam 与 Shawn 的经营字典里。

Step into the tall cast-iron gates of Rowan & Parsley Food Atelier for what feels like a secret enchanted garden, a welcome breather from the hectic city surroundings. As we walk up the pathway to the front door of Rowan & Parsley, we passed by small trees, a cluster of long stalks that might be weeds, a few flowers and other assorted greenery along the manicured walkway. What you may not notice is the bushel of soon-to-be fruit buds on the trees. Wild herbs and plants creep around the brickwork, and the purple and red blossoms are actually edible flowers with a sort of sweet spring and summer flavour.

Unknown to many, the entrance that many have trodden was, in fact, the rear access on closer inspection (and vice-versa), surprised? This observation may seem trivial, but sadly most are more interested to compete for the bragging rights and to bask in their personal glory, while others are quick to writing others off, without the faintest of knowledge in the subject matter they were coming into contact. Make no mistake; the restaurant is no stranger to the masses, thanks to the avalanche of online “publicity”, but despite being in operation for nearly two years, Rowan & Parsley is still pretty much an unknown quantity when it comes to a whole new culinary culture that is well ahead of time. It is, therefore, heartening that we now come across a growing minority like Sam and Shawn, who values simplicity and authenticity over sheer gimmicks, and just biding their time to get things (and taste) right. For those who are uninitiated and willing to experiment, it pays to hear their side of the story.

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Rowan & Parsley 里的植物,比人类还多。植物与人一样,无需太多闪光灯的喂养,越自然,越怡人。占地逾9,000平方英尺 (sq.ft.) 的偌大空间被阳光钦点,匀称撒落各处。眼前所见由自家堆肥与厨余滋养的70%草药皆能食用。近距离亲近食材,坚持不施药因而营养与香气成正比。

From seed to table, or “plant to plate” in the words of Chef Shawn, which sounds perhaps like a small movement from a backyard garden to a kitchen table, but the concept from which the time the seed is planted to getting the food on the restaurant plate spans much further than that. In fact, this culinary revolution has been quietly taking place in a discreet 9,000 sq. ft. space, well nestled within a light industrial estate along Jalan Kota, as Chef Shawn showed us the way….

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这里的一砖一瓦皆是以工作室的原想加上主人所钟爱的材质所筑起的,经过近两年的打造后,原来拥有一个能自给自足的生态环境并非奢想。户外十尺高的水泥墙,与社区隔绝后更显静谧。蓝天绿林虫鸣鸟叫作陪,此刻慢热的大人,正思索着该怎么与植物们一见如故。

Lo and behold, this secret garden is not built overnight, with nearly two years of painstaking effort and tender loving care going into this green sanctuary. Edible plants are planted on the ground along the peripheral fence and in the rear, a sizeable trough is planted with a wide variety of herbs and spices.

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以温室里的花为视角,看着室外的恣意横生,互相钦慕。崇尚自然有其规律的 Sam,不止让植物们随性而生,对于食物工作室里的一景一物也同样待以信马由缰的态度: “时间到了,她就会找到自己所在的位置。”

One of the most attractive features of the restaurant must be the floor to ceiling glass wall that keeps us in air-conditioned comfort indoors while we enjoy views of the natural greenery outside. This simple pleasure of eating homegrown ingredients flavoured with exotic herbs is the inspiration favoured by co-owner Sam, a humble and self-confessed kampung boy from Pekan (in Pahang).

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遵循无固定模式的工作室,生物与非生物在这里慢慢有了各自的行走轨迹。

In essence, this is more than just a restaurant, but a culinary workshop where everything comes to life!

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处处被大自然眷顾的环境,有时缺的只是,知音。就好似食物工作室没有特定的食谱与餐单,知你者,自会欣赏这份不经意的惊喜。

Seeing is believing, this outdoor landscaped garden is the source of many organic ingredients that go into their carefully crafted plates.

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仿如 Chef Shawn 在工作室厨房里所主张的 “无味精添味、无速成解冻”,灌以大量心力栽植的草本植物,定期翻土无施药,姿态各异,自信地伸展,只为了最质纯的滋味。从这里步行到厨房无需一分钟,新鲜与否,时间从来都是最称职的证人。

We simply love the fact that Rowan & Parsley have potted herbs from which Chef Shawn snips basil and parsley to pop on top of meals. Having plants around the place, coupled with the reduced food miles (the distance your food travels to get to your plate) can have a positive impact on the mood of the patrons. Plus, it looks awesome too.

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相机在 Rowan & Parsley 其实属违禁品,只因坚信 “美好的时光与食光” 得留在当下才是真理。主打法日 Fusion 的美食工作室,室内的确荡漾着典雅怀旧与惬意温馨,匠心独具。这样的用心其实也显现在其餐单上。Rowan & Parsley 对于每种食材的烹煮方式不似一般餐厅有多种选择,Chef Shawn 更倾向将当日最新鲜的食材推荐给食客们,美食工作室里的 Today’s Special 就常带给食客们一份由厨房精心献上的惊喜。

All are welcome at Rowan & Parsley, except perhaps your full-function DSLR cameras which are strictly off limits, for the simple reason that pure enjoyment lies in the very moment of truth where you spent time here, not the after-effect or bragging rights which categorise most meals these days. With their highly passionate and committed desire to ensure your best possible dining experience and to serve only the best plate on your table, all could be forgiven on this unusual request, though we received a special exemption from this rule of thumb for this time round LOL.

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复古的前台区与开放式厨房紧邻。对厨房要求极高的 Chef Shawn, 装修之前即精心自行绘制内部空间运用,因为他坚信厨房乃餐厅的心脏,必须条理流畅、卫生环节缺一不可(这里的每项食材皆储置於各自的冰箱,以确保食材原味)。打从烹调、走出厨房、端上桌、第一口至食毕的时间皆经过精密计算,原来师承著名意大利名师 Chef Andrea Sacchi 的他,在新加坡六星级酒店 The Fullerton Hotel 服务期间便备受赏识并得其倾囊相授。

精致料理与自在不做作的家饰打破了隔阂,轻易营造 Casual Dining 的氛围。不得不提这儿的服务人员,每道料理上桌后总会不厌其烦为食客解释里头的配料成分与建议食用方式。经过这年余对在地人的饮食品味拿捏推敲,Chef Shawn 对于食材始终有其坚持(原料与食材多由法国进口),但不拘泥於一成不变,从其前后三次修订餐单就可知一二(就连最普遍的鸡扒在这里也显得与众不同)。

Previously a factory, the interior was decorated with metal fixing to resemble an industrial setup, with the high ceiling and the vastly spaced furniture making the place looking extremely spacious. Diners can choose to either sit indoor or admire the night view at the outdoor alfresco area, a casual dining setting that is designed to break boundaries and to promote interaction and idea exchange among the patrons.

Casual but not informal, Chef Shawn previously plied his trade at the 6-star Fullerton Hotel in Singapore, under the personal tutelage of Italian Masterchef Andrea Sacchi. Drawing on his wealth of experience with renowned establishments such as Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts and Hilton Worldwide, as well as being a fast learner himself, Chef Shawn was able to bring home some of the latest arts and techniques in modern culinary for a taste of the world, right in the heart of JB. We are ready, are you?

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周末若能在这里享受 Brunch 时光,应该是人生美事一桩。Rowan & Parsley 并无固定的早午餐餐单,一切全依当日最新鲜的食材为主。你或许能品尝到厨房团队精心自制的肉饼、面包、酱料… 就静心期待厨房所准备的惊喜吧!

The ever-changing and expanding weekend brunch menu at Rowan & Parsley is also another key highlight, subject to the availability of the ingredients and produce available, so that you can be assured of the freshest platter to make your day, with some occasional surprises thrown in for good measures too.

惊喜自制面包 Homemade Artisan Bread

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以自家培植的酵母发酵而成,外皮烤得褐脆的自制圆面包,撕开后沾上 Oregano Cheese, Q弹生香。方形的面包名为 Brioche, 与圆面包口感有异。蓬蓬的外表看似柔软,放入口中后出乎意料竟有空气般的酥脆感,而且没有一丝油腻,有惊喜。随着碟子上的芝士被 “一扫而空”,大人的内心竟不小心空虚了一会儿。(注:圆面包与 Brioche 并不在定期餐单内,这就是惊喜。)

Rowan & Parsley has kept true to their “roots” and stands by the traditional techniques to make sure that even their range of artisanal loaves is très authentic. The brioches and sourdoughs went especially well with the accompanying Oregano Cheese spread that had us polish the entire plate spick and span! However, the above selection is not available on your regular menu so you can be surprised by what’s in store on a daily basis.

开胃菜-芒果与火龙果沙拉 Mango Dragon Fruit Salad

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酸甜苦辣咸,五味扎实就是这道 Mango Dragon Fruit Salad (RM25) 所带来的味觉震撼。由芒果与火龙果所勾勒出的酸甜,搭上芝麻菜(Arugula)的微苦、烤虾的鲜咸与特调的微辣酱汁,非常开胃。这是大人非常欣赏的一道开胃菜,份量精致,适时地唤醒了味蕾。

As the name suggest, the Mango Dragon Fruit Salad made for an excellent appetiser, with the finely diced fruits diced and their juices making a soft sweet bed for the seared prawns, topped with crunchy arugula greens which are light and refreshing, and opens up our appetite. Again, we loved it so much that we polish up the entire plate, even the juices.

松露牛肝菌菇蘑菇汤 Truffle Porcini Mushroom Soup

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牛肝菌菇 (Porcini Mushroom) 被视为松露菌以外的珍菌,属名贵稀有的野生食用菌,为“四大菌王”之一。由其所搅打出的 Truffle Porcini Mushroom Soup (RM20) 与一般蘑菇汤的浓稠口感大不同。经过过滤后的牛肝菌菇汤,搭以 Parmesan Cheese 所打出的芝士泡沫,再淋上松露油 (Truffle oil), 碟子旁还有两抹不同口味的芝士。服务人员建议先从原味品尝再陆续匀和松露与芝士。由于大人偏爱松露油的滋味,觉得加入了芝士后汤底更显醇厚。

The creamy Truffle Porcini Mushroom Soup uses one of the four “heavenly king” types of mushrooms to give us a raw taste of mushroom flavours, made up of a fine blend of dry porcini mushrooms, sprinkled with a trickle of truffle oil and a dash of Parmesan foam. To derive maximum enjoyment, start with taking a sip of the soup, before gradually mixing it with the truffle oil and adding the cheese foam to the mix. The taste was indeed… heavenly!

花香鲈鱼 Lup De Mare

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Lup De Mare (RM38) 是一道鲈鱼料理,看看 Chef Shawn 如何将新鲜采摘的草本植物巧妙融入此道佳肴中。必须说这是大人第一次品尝“鲜花”,红蓝绿交错其中,与烤得恰好的鲜美鲈鱼及马铃薯毫无冲突感。细细咀嚼草本植物那股天然香,暗暗赞许这滋味总是能恰如其分将这主食中唯一一道的鱼料理原味提升至另一层次。

Better known as the European or Mediterranean Sea Bass, the Lup De Mare is a favourite French classic which saw Chef Shawn season the fresh fillets with sea salt on both sides and then carefully grill the fish on the skin side until it is golden brown. Served with dried tomato, roasted potato, artichoke, buerre sauce and …. homegrown red button ginger and butterfly pea flower, you will be surprised that these floral garnishings are actually edible and lend a fragrant touch to the overall dish too!

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鳗鱼意大利面 Unagi Aglio Olio

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接下来这道 Unagi Aglio Olio (RM38) 是名副其实的 Fusion 料理,印象中所吃的鳗鱼隶属日本餐,如今东西合璧当然不能错过。原来撒了辣椒片末的 Aglio Olio 与鳗鱼的相遇滋味如此特别,记得配上新鲜采摘的草本植物入口,一股自然的甜辣鲜香在嘴里翻腾,这味道在味蕾字典里好陌生但将永远深刻。

This unique Japanese-Italian fusion is definitely our kind of pasta, a straightforward and tempting combination with no heavy sauces, only well-cooked linguine and herb-infused unagi, flavoured with garlic and chilli flakes. As always, the exquisite garnishing is edible and provide a perfect respite to the slightly spicy aftermath which we still adore.

法式香煎童子鸡腿 Grilled Poulet

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Grilled Poulet (RM38) 法式香煎童子鸡腿与鸡胸佐以猎人酱汁,底部则铺以超绵密的纯马铃薯泥。外皮烤至微脆,肉汁深锁其中,肉香菜香交融调味,愈咀嚼愈迷人。大人着实对马铃薯泥的细致顺滑赞不绝口,将之定义为固态与液态之间的薯泥糊应该不为过。

This is another must-try signature main course – Grilled Poulet, which is our favourite spring chicken with Chasseur (brown) sauce. The grilled chicken thighs are served with sauteed vegetables and mashed purple yam, with a unique sauce made with mushroom, tomatoes and chicken juice which is equally finger-licking good!

兰花特调饮品 Butterfly Pea Lemon

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室外采摘的新鲜兰花所调配而成的 Butterfly Pea Lemon (RM13.90),搅拌后由蓝渐变为紫,大自然的色彩魔力在此得到验证。

Interestingly, Rowan & Parsley’s beverages also bear a strong testimony to their “plant to plate” philosophy, and now taken to another level with this “garden to glass” signature Homemade Butterfly Pea Lemon (Blue Lemonade) created with their own herbs grown on site, using self-planted butterfly pea to make into their very own butterfly pea syrup and freshly juiced lemon and lime juices, lending a soothing blue to purple calmness upon stirring which make for a highly refreshing palette cleanser after dinner.

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太阳的刻度来到了此时,感谢 Chef Shawn 娓娓道来美食工作室一路荆棘满途但仍坚持不懈的信念,同时也为许多因理想而回流的年轻人们喝彩,新山有朝一日必将因这股力量而更趋精彩。

With the sun setting down as we conclude our food atelier tour and menu tasting, we couldn’t help but see a shiny glimmer of hope for our local F&B scene. As JB strive to reinvent itself and embrace a new breed of returning talents like Shawn & Sam, who can spice up our gastronomy foodscape one of these days, exciting times are ahead.

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走出门外,身后的车鸣声再度响起。大人心想坚守信念,本非易事,而大自然的平衡本意绝非弱肉强食,而是和谐共存,就如同 Rowan & Parsley Food Atelier 一直在默默实践的一切。

With sustainability fast becoming fashionable, there are a lot of businesses jumping aboard the low-carbon bandwagon and doing their bit to make a difference. This is great news for the planet, and it couldn’t happen at a better time. As Shawn says, food is cool again and more than ever; customers care about where their food comes from, so it’s worthwhile to understand exactly how and why such small changes by Rowan & Parsley Food Atelier can have a significant impact.

 

ROWAN & PARSLEY Food Atelier

Address: 17, Jalan Cenderai 20, Kawasan Perindustrial Kota Putri, 81750 Masai, Johor.
Tel: +607-382 1760
Business Hours:
Mon – Sun  (11.30am
– 10.30pm) * 4pm – 6pm serve drinks only.
Set Lunch (Mon – Fri, 11.30am – 2.30pm, RM28 nett with 3-course)
Brunch available on Sat & Sun only.
NON-HALAL

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    9
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    7
  • 食物选择 Variety
    6
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    8
  • 味道点评 Taste
    8
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