【把信任,托付予料理人】不时不食,赏一场 Omakase 无餐谱日法料理协奏曲。Leave it to the chef to fill our VOiD with omakase dining!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 刘大人]

车子驶入了靠近 Iskandar Puteri 的领域,经过了乐高乐园、松木影城及位于美迪尼第三大道 (Persiaran Medini 3) 的双威国际学校后,眼前这一栋集合了住宅、办公及零售的建筑正是大人今日与友人新约的晚餐地点。

As we approached Iskandar Puteri and drove past LEGOLAND® Malaysia and Pinewood Iskandar Malaysia Studios into Sunway Iskandar, our attention was captured by this awe-inspiring building, with its statement glassy facade gleaming all white and sterling in the setting sun – the perfect stage for our highly anticipated date for the evening.

新旧城区虽皆临近南方边城上的一弯碧水旁,Sunway Citrine Hub 这儿对许多久居新山市区、初次到访的看官们而言,映入双眸的清新绿境,不禁心生了一份向往。多了雅致清幽,少了车水马龙,一城二景,倒是个适合体验生活真趣的好地方。

Sunway Citrine Hub 里标记着「让人好想进去尝尝」的餐厅原来不在少数,看来大人实在应该再多来几回微服出巡才行。绕着商场打量了一会儿,指针上显示七时廿分,也是时候赴约了!

The “hub” is part of the Citrine integrated development which features designer offices, boutique residences and retail outlets which overlook a resplendent emerald lake garden – a far cry from the hectic hubbub of Johor Bahru where tranquillity still prevails even in the most dynamic of cities.

Local folks don’t talk about Medini with the same reverence as they do Johor Bahru, Skudai and Mount Austin suburbs, but that looks set to change with a slew of cafes, master roasters and speciality stores hitting the market. So if you’re all shopped out in Sunway Iskandar, make a pit stop at one of these cafes and restaurants at Sunway Citrine Hub for a good cuppa or casual dining. Before we knew it, our watches read 7.20pm, time to make our move upstairs to Level 1 to meet up with the rest.

「啊!还以为走进了艺廊。」推门而入后的二楼目的地 – VOiD,日法Fusion的气息、木器暖灯一霎间惊艳了大人的双眼。做菜何尝不是一门艺术呢?食物之于人,是一种成长过程与生活记忆的刻度,并非一定得是高档食材才能成就一桌大菜,但要能做好料理,放慢脚步急不得的心态确是必须。

West-landers would rejoice as Restaurant VOiD is situated at Sunway Citrine Hub and just a short distance from the Second Link for those coming in from Tuas. The brainchild of Chef Shawn and Pastry Chef Sunny, foodies familiar with the local F&B scene will know Shawn from his Rowan & Parsley days. Known for continually pushing culinary boundaries by combining numerous cooking techniques to better bring out the natural textures and flavours of each ingredient, Shawn and his team promise a glorious dining experience, melding classic French cooking techniques with authentic Japanese flavours, embodying Shawn’s own journey into the realm of east-west fusion cuisine.

结识 Chef Shawn 有好一段时日了,有他存在的厨房近乎完美,总让大人好放心将口腹交托予他。 「今天不妨来场 Omakase 吧!」一行人在 VOiD 的台前列席而坐时,正逢周五各自放下了忙碌的担子,心情莫名放松地连点菜这回事也交给 Chef Shawn 来决定!其实 Omakase 即是日文中的「厨师推荐」,待餐时大人其实并不晓得待会儿将上桌的餐谱,不时不食,一切皆交由厨师挑选当季优质食材,现场烹制而定。「充满期待的心情果然与平时滑手机待餐的感觉大不同。」

Some chefs pay attention to the latest culinary trends, and others create the trends. Chef  Shawn is definitely one of them! Having been “deprived” of some bold and daring culinary experiments for the past year, we are glad to be posted about his new F&B venture and invited to check out a different dining concept, inspired by the Japanese local tradition and prepared with carefully-selected local and seasonal ingredients.

Injected with the Japanese “tatami” essence, VOiD‘s layout is based on openness and the concept of interaction between chefs and customers. The counters take on a modern loft kitchen design, while the use of darker wood and honey hues pieces of furniture bring luxury and a masculine vibe to the overall space.

为何将餐厅取名为 VOiD 呢? 「不希望被局限在某一个框框中,无边界料理是我一直想要完成的一个想法,如今终于可透过 VOiD 来实现,亦是填补了内心深处的那个缺口。」Chef Shawn 感性说道。

We asked Shawn why he picked the name VOiD for his restaurant. Just as we imagined, Shawn envisaged his dining space to resemble a pure canvas where he and his team can paint anything they like – no restrictions, full of surprises yet always ready for more ideas. At the same time, the restaurant also fills a personal “void” which he felt was missing from his early days in business.

餐厅一隅的精致法式甜点柜里,有着出自 Chef Shawn 的人生最佳拍档 Pastry Chef Sunny 之手的精心杰作!「那乔装成三文治模样的法式蛋糕,超抢镜!」大人心想今晚的 Omakase 餐谱里应该也能尝到 Sunny 的好手艺吧!

The dessert counter is reminiscent of a walk-in chocolate jewellery box, a curation of Pastry Chef Sunny‘s approach towards her creations and spatial environment to create a multi-sensorial experience that is both balanced and harmonious. One thing comes to mind at the sight of the “sandwich” sitting among her other pastry creations – Surely there’s room for at least one of Chef Sunny’s sweet treats during our meal? 🤨

VOiD 的供餐时段分别为从早上10am至傍晚5点的早午餐时段 (亦备有素食餐谱)、傍晚5点至6点之间仅供甜点,而晚餐时段则从傍晚6点开始,除了由主厨精心设计的 omakase 餐谱共会呈献11道餐点外 (Fish RM288 | Pork RM288 | Lamb RM298 | Beef RM398, last order 9pm),尚有单点的晚餐餐谱让饕客们各择所爱。

VOiD serves brunch (including vegetarian options) and dinner from 10am to 11pm, but the focus here lies primarily on seasonal produce, of which their menu comprises. Unable to decide what to order? Think omakase. The intriguing thing about omakase is that we don’t know exactly what we will be getting, but in Chef Shawn we trust, and rest assured that you will definitely be fed well and in good hands for the evening.

VOiD‘s omakase dinner consists of 11 courses, with prices ranging from RM288++ (fish) to RM398++ (wagyu beef) per pax, depending on the choice of meat for the main course.

选择困难症?想要挑战好奇心?Omakase 或许就是最适合看官们的进餐形式,上餐前主厨会细心事先询问饕客是否会对特定食材过敏,口味由清至浓依序上阵,所以无需过于担忧所品尝的餐点会抵触味蕾。柜子上陈列的即是 Omakase 的精致餐具,看官们是否发现刀叉出现的场次好像不多,大人不禁对待会儿的餐点愈加好奇!

From the seasonally inspired ingredients right down to the silverware and serving plates of which Chef Shawn’s gorgeous creations are presented in, VOiD reflects a particular culinary style that’s both visually stunning and sensorial from taste to texture.

「在开放式厨房处理餐点真的得自带勇气才行!」眼前这一幕各司其职自信的演出,大人不晓得他们上场前演练了多少回,默契这回事有时需要一点时间来撮合。来自厨房里的铿锵声响与耳际听着的乐曲竟毫无突兀,心情好久没那么愉悦了!「今天为你们挑选了2017年份的Chilean Concha Y Toro Reservado Cabernet Sauvignon。」Chef Sunny 说这一款红酒口味并不会太厚重,入口宜人,果真如此。

Once our whole party arrived, Chef Sunny briefly introduced our Omakase menu which typically consists of a series of plates, beginning with the lightest fare and subsequently proceeding on to the heavier dishes, and checked with each and every one of us on our food allergies (if any). To start our palettes rolling, Chef Sunny introduced us to the 2017 Chilean Concha Y Toro Reservado Cabernet Sauvignon from their cellar, an easy-going light-bodied wine with attractive fruit aromas, with herbal and chocolate notes that has a nice finish. With the wine flowing freely, we are all set for our dinner which was quite a joy watching the crew prepare our orders from the comfort of our seats. Itadakimasu!

1st Course
Umami Tart

首道上场的甜点充满海洋的味道,却找不到一丝海鲜的踪迹!Umami Tart 里那入口即化的芝士、棉花糖与海苔的咸香,以及极脆的烤酥饼皮所带出的相对口感相当出色,「一人只有一颗,也太勾人回味了!」Omakase 的11道餐谱全由厨师决定,所以大人今日所享用的,下一回再光顾可未必能再品一回啊!「好珍惜 Umami Tart 在嘴里化开的那瞬间。」

Personally prepared by Chef Sunny, our starter was a tiny tart with chewy marshmallow topped with cheese, torched and then crowned with a pinch of seaweed. Our first bite into it yields the savoury factor. Before long, a subtle sweetness will work its way through, and we’ll be crying on the inside with joy. The crust is somewhat buttery that blends with the tart to give natural ocean umami to whet our appetite for our mains.

Even if it’s just the first of many dishes to come, we secretly wish for a second helping 😄

2nd Course
Bread & Butter

皮衣微脆的开餐面包香气与体积绝对不成正比,「微烫的圆面包遇见了牛油后立即融化为一体,香气更甚。」

For our second course, you might think, “eh, it’s just bread what” (because that was us initially), but the way the good ol’ salty pat of butter melts on a warm fluffy bun makes quite an irresistible combination.

3rd Course
Buttermilk Chicken

别小觑这造型简单的 Buttermilk Chicken,皮脆肉嫩里外入味,「灵魂都锁在汁里了,好吃。」

Do not underestimate this Buttermilk Chicken. As a dish on its own, this cut-out piece of a typical chicken chop was perfectly cooked to just the right doneness, juicier and has a  nice and balanced savoury sweet flavour.

4th Course
Cracker on Oriental Shrimp coated with Avocado Mousse

很得人心的 Cracker on Oriental Shrimp coated with Avocado Mousse,将虾子、柠檬与鳄梨制成慕斯抹在脆饼上,「清爽绵密又酥脆,连平素不吃虾的那一位都赞不绝口,好滋味可想而知啊!」

Our fourth-course Cracker on Oriental Shrimp coated with Avocado Mousse was equally delightful, even for one of us who’s not a fan of anything shrimpy. The avocado mousse was more than just as a complement to the shrimp, but a real meal enhancer. The taste and texture was that of a cold salad – creamy, smooth and somewhat felt healthy too.

5th Course
Foie Gras Mousse with Black Truffle Puree

Chef Shawn 总是不缺点子将看似家常的食材幻变出不同凡响的滋味啊!Foie Gras Mousse with Black Truffle Puree 以低胆固醇的优质鸡蛋匀和鹅肝酱慕斯与蒸马铃薯泥,缀以看似鱼子酱的黑松露泥,让人惊艳!「若是没亲自尝鲜,乍看之下还以为是平日所食的半熟蛋呢!」

When we were served what resembled a “soft-boiled egg” for our fifth course, our initial reactions were that of eye-rolling bewilderment. Turns out that the Foie Gras Mousse with Black Truffle Puree served in an eggshell is a novel way of serving up petite portions of this delicate dish. A twist to the well-known French delicacy, their foie gras mousse is rich, airy, delicate and yummy to the max!

大人真觉得你这颗「扮」熟蛋可真似模似样,让人回味啊!

If only all “soft-boiled eggs” at home can taste as good as this…

6th Course
Tomato Salad

脱水后的番茄皮衣,品尝起来有着柴鱼片的嘶嘶声响,搭以来自法国的 Heirloom 品种多彩番茄与浓缩后的意大利陈年葡萄醋,不同色彩与熟成度的番茄擦撞出相异的滋味,「轻而易举再度完成开胃任务。」

Our next dish is a salad of deconstructed Heirloom tomato dressed with balsamic vinegar reduction to give it some acidity. These seasonal, colourful, strangely-shaped tomatoes are not just cool, but juicier and crunchier, in particular, the dried tomato skin. 😋

7th Course
Onion Soup

「这是我所喝过的洋葱汤中最好喝的一盅,没有之一。」不得不提及这瑞士 Gruyère Cheese 的拉丝功力一流,与洋葱在汤里一起全力挥洒魅力,众人异口同声,得票率一致。

All of us agreed that this was the best French Onion Soup that we’ve had for a long time.

This is a simple dish with complex flavours and textures, interacting with one another. Sometimes it was the onions, sometimes it was the soggy bread, soaked completely with soup, with the sweetness of the bread. Sometimes it was the Gruyère cheese with its long gluey strands. Sometimes it was savoury, and sometimes it was sweet. Heavenly!

8th Course
Almond Meringue with Cured Pork Lardo & Pork Snow

Almond Meringue with Cured Pork Lardo & Pork Snow 以法式蛋白脆饼配搭腌猪肉,再以猪油脂与盐渍而成的雪花缀顶,咸甜软硬兼具,「味蕾里有着满满的冲击感。」

The Almond Meringue with Cured Pork Lardo & Pork Snow is yet another eye-candy and such a treat. Made from cured pork back fat, our pork lardo is such a treat, with its super smooth, buttery texture adding the most incredible flavour to the candy-like sweetness (pun-intended) of almond meringue. Super nice!

9th Course
Unagi

另一道大受好评的料理 Unagi,乃是以意大利天使面 (Angel Hair) 佐以牛油、橄榄油、辣椒、鳗鱼皮衣与青葱,简直是佐料界的天作之合,「据说这一道也是平日单点晚餐食谱中最受欢迎的料理。」

One of the most popular items in the menu, the Unagi is another of our to-come-back-for dish. Well greased with butter and olive oil, the soft pasta was well infused with the distinct taste of the eel, with a hint of spicy heat from a bit of chilli giving it the extra oomph!. Simple, but yet so tasty, this dish turned out to be our favourite of the lot.

每一丝面条都充斥着鳗鱼的香与味,大人一度真以为这一道意面是用鳗鱼「汁」烹煮出来的哦!

At one stage, we really thought the umami-ness of the dish was a result of cooking the pasta in unagi “jus” LOL!

10th Course
Mackerel 

这一晚,早前选择了 Fish 的部分友人桌上出现了这道大伙儿蛮熟悉的 MackerelChef Shaun 保留了鲭鱼的弹嫩肉质,搭配菠菜、白奶油酱汁巧妙中和了鱼身的天然鲜咸。「与常吃的日式鲭鱼口感大不同。」

For the main course, some of us opted for the Mackerel, which is grilled to a light crisp and managed to retain a nice amount of juiciness. The amount of salt used was spot-on and adding the spinach, and beurre blanc (French white butter) did well to highlight the mackerel’s natural flavour.

Iberico Pork

西班牙国宝级伊比利亚黑毛猪的身价矜贵、肉质细腻,想必近几年来已为人熟识。「皮脆、肉质弹嫩、有嚼劲、无腥味。」综合了挑了 Pork 选项的大人与同伴一致的赞美,Chef Shawn 所呈献的这道 Iberico Pork 无疑是今晚主食里的亮点。「以真空低温烹调两小时后再煎过的黑毛猪,搭以原味 Pork Jus 与南瓜泥一起入口,微甜解腻极好味 。」

One of the crown jewels of Spanish cuisine, the chunky blocks of Iberico Pork is first sous vided for 2 hours, pan-seared then baked to perfection. The result of the pork crackling combined with a sweet pumpkin puree makes for a great mix of flavour, while the pork jus also hits close to home, reminding us of our grandmother’s char siew sauce for that added nostalgia!

Pre-dessert
Espresso Bomb

一口咬下后的惊喜,好喜欢这微苦的 Espresso Bomb,对于我这种夜晚喝咖啡也能呼呼入睡的人而言,这甜品来上几颗我也很愿意接领啊!「于是,我连同伴的份额也吃了。」

Here’s a bonus on the house, a strong shot of caffeine-filled chocolate Espresso Bomb before we hit the final course, and the road. We bet you’d love the “explosion” of a bittersweet symphony in your mouths!

11th Course
C • H • O • C

「看似厚重,其实极度轻盈。」喜欢 VOiD 的餐后甜点,毫无过于甜腻的心理负担,C • H • O • C 与舌尖接触的那瞬间,像空气般无声无息融化,「感觉吃了,又突然不见了,好神奇的感觉。」

And now, for the grand finale as the C • H • O • C made its bow. The aerated chocolate started out light and firm in the mouth but then becomes denser and creamier, while the hazelnut snow and orange foam quickly melts and evaporated into thin air the moment it touches our palettes, leaving a negligible burden on our calories count as we wrap up for the evening.

自空气般的甜点融化在舌尖后,大人深知筵席已来到了尾声,虽然每一道料理份量皆很精致,却颇饱足,不得不佩服团队们精准的计算啊!

看了看表,「尝了12道料理与甜点后,原来不知不觉已经10点了!」两个半小时的晚餐,在美味面前却一点儿也不觉得耗时,反倒觉得今晚像是欣赏了一首极致料理的协奏曲。谢谢 Chef Shawn 与年轻的幕后团队们 (大伙儿的平均年龄不到23岁!),料理人的贴心让大人一行人实现了完美的 Omakase 初体验!当然,大人也要祝贺 Chef Shawn 终于梦想成真了啊!

What an AWESOME meal! Over 2 hours and 12 dishes later, our gastronomy void was heartily filled by Chef Shawn (still only 26 years of age) and his youthful team with an average age of 23 years. From humble but delicate tasting starters right down to premium seafood and meat options, the execution of each course is simple yet refined, with an array of alluring flavours leaving us beyond satisfaction. Do note that VOiD’s omakase dinner accept walk-ins up till 9pm, but if you want to treat yourself, or bring that special someone out on a date, do make your reservations early, so that you don’t miss out on this unforgettable omakase experience.

Our heartiest congratulations to Shawn and Sunny for your dreams come true. It’s heartening to know that JB’s culinary scene is still well alive and… cooking 😋!!!

 

VOiD by Shawn Shum

   1-20-1-22, First Floor, Sunway Citrine Hub, Persiaran Medini 3
   Sunway Iskandar, 79250 Iskandar Puteri, Johor
  +6011-5502 6828
  Daily from 10.00am – 11.00pm
 Brunch 10.00am – 5.00pm; Omakase 6.00pm – 10.00pm
   Restaurant VOiD
   
NON-HALAL

 

杂志大人美食免责声明 DISCLAIMER
大人秉持在地美食分享,定得实地品尝、实地采访拍摄,美食形态各异,点评纯属大人浅见。
All content and ratings are based on MAGistrate’s collective opinions and experiences, which we hope will be informative and interesting for readers and perhaps, lead you to form your own opinions and preferences. While we make every effort to ensure that our information is current and correct, some items and prices may change without our knowledge.

 

No Comments Yet

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.