品川味,说鲜醇,道辣香:新山《满殿中菜馆》 For pure imperial indulgence the “Qing Palace” style @ Pulai Springs Resort

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人   资料 Sub-editor 郑大人]

中国地广人众,各地风味菜色经久因地理、气候、历史与风俗而呈鲜明口味,在各地人口尚未大量迁徙的时代,南咸北甜乃辨识两地口味的说法。南宋时期,北方人开始南迁,随身而携的当然还有家乡滋味,自此甜味在南方也开始有了立足点。清初,川菜、鲁菜、粤菜、苏菜并列为中国四大菜系;清末,浙菜、闽菜、湘菜、徽菜入局形成目前咱们时有耳闻的中国传统八大菜系。

川菜,作为中国早期传统四大菜系之首,以清鲜醇浓,麻辣辛香著称,最为本地人所熟悉的川菜莫过于麻婆豆腐、宫保鸡丁、泡椒凤爪、鱼香肉丝等。在新山,要觅得融合了传统川菜与道地佳肴的食府其实并不少,真正将两者都做得有滋有味的,大人信手拈来必有这家 – 位于 Pulai Springs Resort 内的《满殿中菜馆 Qing Palace》

Chinese cuisine, which includes cuisine originating from the diverse regions of China, is an important part of Chinese culture. Considering the climate of China varies from tropical in the south to subarctic in the northeast, as well as factors such as availability of resources, history, cooking techniques, lifestyle and geographic features also have a strong effect on the locally available ingredients, each style of Chinese cuisine is distinctive from one another. A number of different styles contribute to Chinese cuisine, but perhaps the best-known and most influential are the “Four Major Cuisines” known as Chuan (Sichuan), Lu (Shandong), Yue (Cantonese) and Su (Jiangsu) which represents West, North, South and East China cuisine correspondingly, whereas Anhui, Fujian, Hunan, and Zhejiang cuisines complete the Modern “Eight Cuisines” of China

Sichuan Cuisine, originating from the Sichuan Province of southwestern China, is the most widely served of all of China’s regional cuisines. Famed for its bold flavours, in particular the pungency and spiciness resulting from liberal use of garlic, chilli peppers, as well as the unique character of the Sichuan peppercorn and facing heaven pepper, with notable dishes such as Mapo Tofu, Kung Pao Chicken, Chicken Feet with Pickled Pepper and Shredded Pork in Garlic Sauce just to name a few. If you fancy Sichuan food like us, you’ll be delighted to know that Qing Palace at Pulai Springs Resort serves up even more flavour variations of this specialty fare.

於1997年启业迎宾的《满殿中菜馆 Qing Palace》早已获奖无数,屡得业界认同。古色古香的中式宫殿风格大器雅致,些许的斑驳木质乃岁月的凭证。推门而入后,犹如宫廷剧里的精雕细琢,华丽场景仿佛让人听见一声「传~ 杂志大人~」是的,这是一道记录着廿载美味光景的长廊,走了一会儿柳暗花明又一春,眼前这一幅古意盎然的殿堂,即是今日大人享用御宴之处。

Since opening its doors in 1997, Pulai Springs Resort has been an attraction for both locals and tourists alike in JB, either for their sprawling 36-hole golf course, clubhouse amenities, or one of the city’s top Chinese restaurant. Awarded the Best Restaurant in Johor Bahru by Tourism Johor (2012) and voted one of the Best Restaurants in Malaysia by Malaysian Tatler for 17 consecutive years (1999-2015)Qing Palace carries an ambience that reflects very vividly, a Chinese imperial setting. The grand entrance greets us with an antique era, of which the intricately-designed signboard, along with the dark jade roofing and red silk lanterns indubitably portray the legitimacy of genuine Chinese imperial palace. The intricately carved wooden doors instantly transported us to an ancient Orient, and we could be forgiven for thinking we have travelled through time for a Chinese imperial cuisine cooked from the imperial kitchens, fit for the emperors and empresses!

可容220位各路觅食饕客的《满殿》,也特设了两间贵宾包厢 (各12人,可开启合并使用)。待餐时就暂将手机摆一旁吧,站在木窗边遥望鱼池中那自由悠然的各色鲤鱼儿们,特别疗愈心灵,而这也成了大人每次到访最爱的一隅。

The main dining hall is spacious and modern, with tall ceilings can comfortably fit 220 persons inside, with two 12-person private dining room is available for more intimate gatherings. We always enjoyed the windows that look out onto a terrace and swimming pool, with nearby water features and carp pools surrounded by greenery setting an upscale mood for our imperial indulgence ahead.

招牌 – 樟茶片鸭 Camphor & Tea Smoked Duck

来到《满殿》,由总厨林民忠师傅 Chef Lim 所主理的招牌川菜 樟茶片鸭 (Camphor & Tea Smoked Duck, 小RM55, 大RM110) 乃绝对必点料理。「樟茶片鸭略为厚软的皮衣与大伙儿熟悉的北京烤鸭卖相各异,滋味平分秋色。选料制作严谨的樟茶鸭以拥有特殊香气的樟树叶、药材与茶叶经腌、熏、蒸、炸等工序制成,摆盘讲究,难怪每每上桌即能成焦点。」

Even if you are not a fan of duck meat for its stronger fowl odour than chicken meat, the Sichuan Camphor & Tea Smoked Duck is a quintessential dish of Sichuan cuisine and was surprisingly satisfying without any unpleasant smell. Painstakingly prepared by hot smoking the marinated fowl over tea leaves and twigs of the camphor plant, the amber-hued duck was succulent and tenderly soft, with a subtle hint of smokiness. Served along was fried mantou (bun) for a more substantial meal to complement the meat and wipe up all the tasty sauce, this is a must-order, and a dish truly worthy of royalty!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★★

四川酸辣汤 Szechuan Hot & Sour Soup

另一道太令人熟悉的经典家常四川菜 – 四川酸辣汤 (Szechuan Hot & Sour Soup, 小RM30, 大RM60),汤透味粘与酸辣度调和地极好,师傅特别吩咐品尝前需浇入了红彤彤的辣油与翠绿葱段才搅合,红绿交缠酸辣咸鲜香齐聚在内,「原有的白胡椒风味搭与辣油、冬笋丝、豆腐丝、蛋花、黑木耳丝及葱段,趁热喝特别去腻醒胃。」

Our delightful gastronomic journey continued with a simmering broth of Szechuan Hot & Sour Soup, easily another of our favourites due to the vinegary part. Tremendously appetising and soothing, slightly thick texture with just the right consistency comparable to shark fins soup, it is neither too gooey nor sticky. The soup was brimming with tofu, wood ear fungus, shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoots, egg drops and spring onions that open up our palate with the spicy aroma and sharp sourness to keep us refilling our bowls!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

青咖喱金目鲈 Green Curry Sea Bass

尝过了经典招牌川菜,另一道《满殿》必点道地料理即是充满南洋风味的青咖喱金目鲈 (Green Curry Sea Bass, 时价RM8.60/100gm),酥炸至香脆的金目鲈并不因此而失去鲜嫩度,入口后必会讶异青咖喱并无意掩盖鱼肉本身的鲜甜,皮衣反而因吸满汁液而香溢了彼此,弹牙依旧,大人好喜欢这一道鱼料理。「以咖喱叶与鲜奶调配的青咖喱酱汁 (无椰奶) 相较起泰式版本,辣度经已大幅减低,香浓依旧好下饭!就连孩子们也乐于尝鲜。」

Unlike the normal Thai-style counterpart, the Green Curry Sea Bass uses curry leaves and fresh milk (instead of coconut milk) into a whole new curry concoction to provide a burst of fragrance and flavours in this exotic Asian dish. The deep fried fish was drenched in creamy curry sauce, topped with vegetables and bean curd puffs. The flesh was tender, and all of us slurped up the sauce which was velvety and both savoury and sweet at the same time. Overall, the spiciness was mild, making it suitable for kids and those with low spicy food tolerance. Must order!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★★

芝麻酥鸡 Crispy Sesame Boneless Chicken

「这无骨芝麻酥鸡甜脆适中,芝麻不抢味恰如其分地缠绕在皮衣之上,真是太好吃了!」才刚送入口中咀嚼,大人我就闭眼猛赞,这道看似无难度的芝麻酥鸡 (Crispy Sesame Boneless Chicken, 小RM26, 中RM39, 大RM52) 由于材料比重拿捏得当,竟然出乎意料地好味,大人吃得满心欢喜。

This Crispy Sesame Boneless Chicken is yet another one for our food bucket list and the honey archives. Sweet, savoury, crispy, sticky and a little bit spicy, the dish covers all the bases for one of those meals that we gladly polish off. In fact, these chicken bites were baked not fried, saving tonnes of calories right off the bat. Not a scrap left.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★☆

粉丝虾煲 Glass Noodle with Prawn in Claypot

粉丝虾煲 (Glass Noodle with Prawn in Claypot, 小RM50, 中RM75, 大RM100) 又是另一道掳获海鲜控的当家料理。「充盈着汁液的琥珀色粉丝,咸香绵鲜好入味!伴着姜丝浸浴在粉丝中的鲜虾,与粉丝甜咸相辅相成,筷子一次次的起落诉说着大人我的意犹未尽呀!」

The Glass Noodle with Prawn in Claypot is the perfect comforting dish to order on a chilly, rainy day. The sauce base gives an inviting, silky texture to the already well-balanced flavour of the large and succulent prawns, and every chew of it releases tiny, rhythmical squirts of sleek oil that ooze and complements wells with it. The glass noodle was so mouthwatering that we slurp up every last strand of this dish.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★☆

干煸四季豆 Fried French Bean with Minced Chicken

川菜中另一道著名的传统开胃料理 – 干煸四季豆 (Fried French Bean with Minced Chicken, 小RM25, 中RM37, 大RM50),嚼着嚼着口口生香,非常下饭。川菜中,煸乃极为普遍的料理法,将食蔬、肉类用油慢慢煸干至微焦香脆,少一分耐心都不行。「满殿的干煸四季豆,搭以鸡肉粒煸炒,微咸极香,脆而锁汁。」

A decent vegetable dish for those who shy away from spice, this Fried French Bean with Minced Chicken gives a total contrast to the fiery Sichuan dishes, as it soothes our stomach yet very palatable. The great flavour that comes with stir-frying the French beans with minced chicken through and through, with a well-mixed and unapologetically sauté minced garlic makes this yet another a wholesome and tasty dish.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

招牌甜品 – 麻糍 Mua Ji (Peanut Ball)  |  福州芋泥 Oni (Yam Pudding)  |  龟苓膏  Chilled “GuiLing” Herbal Jelly

除了传统川菜与道地佳肴,《满殿》的招牌甜点也惹人钟爱。大人今日从六种甜点中钦点了三种:福州麻糍 (Mua Ji, Peanut Ball, RM7)、福州芋泥 (Oni, Yam Pudding, RM7) 与龟苓膏 (Chilled “GuiLing” Herbal Jelly, RM7) ,「送上桌时的自制麻糍尚有余温,软糯弹牙;而每回品尝芋泥最担心的就是甜度没拿捏好,《满殿》微甜暖嘴的芋泥绝对是大人的心头好;外观晶莹剔透、份量较一般大的自制龟苓膏,微苦而不涩。」

If you still have some space for dessert, these mouthful-sized Mua Ji are a pleasant greeting with its velvety smooth and slightly powdery texture. Cutting open a piece of the rice cake reveals a thick, condensed filling made up of peanut cream, which melts into a fluffy, marshmallow texture upon touching the tongue. The Oni (Yam Pudding) is an authentic traditional Fuzhou dessert made from velvety, creamy yam, crowned with sesame seeds and crushed red dates for that special fragrance. For chilled dessert lovers, options are aplenty too, with the Chilled “GuiLing” Herbal Jelly a pleasant sight as it is indeed healthy and cooling that has excellent health benefits too.

Overall, these desserts definitely make for a sweet ending to our splendid meal.

拥有逾43年厨龄的 Chef Lim,足迹遍布美国纽约、新加坡、马来西亚等地,询及本地川菜特色,Chef Lim 谓当初跟着老师傅一步一脚印学厨,五花八门的川菜集众家之长,学有所成之后再融会贯通添入自个儿的独到创意,正好迎合了「传承不守旧,创新不忘本」的现代川菜理念。每当饕客在《满殿》点餐前,师傅或是这儿的服务人员总会先探知各人口味再做出适当推荐,难怪大人今日所尝都如此合味啊!

Helmed by Master Chef Lim Ming Chong, whose vast culinary experience dated back over 43 years that took him to New York, Singapore and other parts of the country, he has developed a taste for authentic cuisine, while constantly endeavour to bring freshness and interesting concepts to the table, integrating ingredients and cooking techniques from other cultures into his dishes over time. To ensure we have the best of both culinary worlds, Chef Lim and the service crew will make it a point to understand our preferences before putting his woks and pans to work on his dishes that many have grown to love.

Come experience a bonafide and invigorating experience of Sichuan dining at Qing Palace, you will be assured of its authenticity and contemporary offerings that are seemingly unusual to Johor Bahru.

满殿中菜馆 Qing Palace Chinese Restaurant @ Pulai Springs Resort

Address: Pulai Springs Resort, 20KM, Jalan Pontian Lama, 81110 Johor, 81300 Johor Bahru, Malaysia.
Contact: +607 – 521 2121
Email: qing.palace@pulaisprings.com
Time: 12pm-2.30pm (Lunch); 6pm-10.30pm (Dinner)
NO PORK, NO LARD

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结案陈词 Verdict
  • 环境 Ambience
    8
  • 价格 Price
    7
  • 食物选择 Variety
    7
  • 服务态度 Service
    8
  • 味道点评 Taste
    8
The Good
The Bad
0
7.610
MAGistrate 杂志大人

Creative Director & Chief Chinese Editor

1 Comment
  1. Very thoughful for t npnl notice. If I may add a further comfirmation that t meat white or red r prepared according to Islamic std is much apprrciated even if u donot posesses Halal certificate…

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