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喝粥吃菜话家常、暖心潮州粥幸福上桌 – 金阁楼 Ultimate comfort food that fills your belly and warms your heart

喝粥吃菜话家常、暖心潮州粥幸福上桌 – 金阁楼 Ultimate comfort food that fills your belly and warms your heart

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人   资料 Sub-editor 郑大人]

新山开埠早期以潮籍人居多,素有“小汕头”之美称。而向来笃信喝粥养生的潮籍人,其日常主食 -潮州粥(又称潮州糜)更是滋养了数代新山人的胃,一碗雪白清粥配上几碟咸甜小菜,就算日食三餐也不嫌腻。时代的变迁,大部分的美食更像是精致的“潮流品”,很多时候吃的是一种流行态度,而能真正静下心来细品的,反倒是家常小菜。对大人来说,潮州粥是一种既能独享,也能阖家共享的无负担美食。

记忆中的传统潮州粥总是设在较为陈旧的老城住宅区,看官们绝对想不到原来在高尔夫球俱乐部里也能享用到这传统好滋味。非常感激 Ponderosa Golf & Country Club 的热情款待,每次抵步后心情总是特别愉悦,因为亲切健谈的 Yvonne 总能点中大人的笑穴(这一点大人的确要俯首称臣啊~) 😀

When it comes to comfort food in JB (once known as “Little Swatow” due to most of Johor’s Teochew community originated from Shantou – a populous Teochew district of the Guangdong Province, China), a bowl of plain or sweet potato porridge accompanied by the humblest of home-cooked dishes, ranks high up there as one of the most soothing meals. For those who grew up eating these at home, savouring it now could take us back to our childhood days when simple meals were satisfying and memorable.

Fans of Teochew porridge would no doubt reminisce the good old days when the food was best savoured by the roadside stalls or in some old-school Chinese restaurants, so we were pleasantly surprised to receive the invitation from Ponderosa Golf & Country Club for yet more comfort food therapy, in the comfort of their well-appointed Chinese restaurant – Hop Sing. Speaking of atmosphere, there will be no shortage of warmth and hospitality here, as we’ll always be well-entertained by the lively and effervescent Yvonne, complete with her wits and humour that make for a perfect starter on every occasion.

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从宽敞的大厅拾级而上后,再往右侧小巷直走,就能窥见金阁楼 (Hop Sing) 的踪影。说这里是大人的私密厨房一点也不为过,因为自年前尝过其中式餐点后,大人的味蕾始终对其念念不忘,常会不自觉将大人牵引至此尝鲜。今正逢微雨凉爽,自是品尝暖心暖脾粥品的最佳“食刻”,不晓得今天 Yvonne 又会推荐什么好料给咱们呢?

Tucked away amidst the idyllic clubhouse, lies a great Chinese restaurant of timeless ambience of grandeur, elegance and style. Open to both club members and the general public, Hop Sing offers good old traditional Chinese fare, with a sumptuous menu that can rivals any 5-star establishments but at a price very few can match.

From Chinese New Year reunion gatherings to casual business lunches on numerous occasions, Hop Sing is always a safe option that can never go wrong. Especially on a cold rainy day (like today), there’s nothing more comforting than a hot bowl of porridge served with small plates of food – Teochew style. So what’s cooking, Chef Koh?

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啊~ 番薯粥!这是好多长辈的儿时好滋味,既能饱腹又有营养,李时珍的《本草纲目》就如此记载番薯的疗效:“补虚乏,益气力,健脾胃,强肾阴。潮州粥以生米粒入煲至米身爆腰,米粒仍见分明,而粥水则称为“洝”。若将 “粥” 字拆开解读,颇有古时使用柴火与沸水,左右开弓将 “米” 扯开的画面(乍看之下,真的很像碗里的潮州粥)。

煮得滑嫩绵密的白粥与松软绵香的番薯,非常开胃,怎能止得了口?幸好这里奉行无限添粥,幽默风趣的领班总是担心大人饿着了,频频询问大人是否要再来一碗(羞~)。除了番薯粥外,白粥也颇受食客欢迎。大人在谈笑风生中,一不留意就三碗下肚了。

OMG, the sweet potato porridge was thick, silky-smooth and wins hands down for having the best texture among all the sweet potato porridge we slurped up. After all, the legendary Ming Dynasty physician, Li Shi Zhen once wrote: Sweet potato is beneficial in digestion and it promotes the development of the spleen, aids digestion, improves intestinal peristalsis (contraction) and help to clear constipation. WOW! Seems like there’s little harm in going for our second serving, especially when the refill here is bottomless!

The enjoyment of Teochew Porridge lies in this age old, time tested combination of watery porridge with salty dishes. That small amount of “kiam” (salt) is good enough for one or two mouthfuls of porridge to cleanse the palate and then we can experience the warmth of the porridge slide down our gullet. Before we knew it, we were already tucking into our third refill.

j2这一碟碟腌渍小菜,就是拌粥的最佳拍档。金阁楼此次共推出多达30种不同的菜式,每碟小菜从RM2.50起至RM12.00不等,看官们这下有口福了!喝潮州粥,怎能少了口味偏咸的豆豉鲮鱼、咸蛋与豆腐乳呢?两口粥一口小菜,再品一口茶,舒畅啊~ 除了这三道腌渍小菜,看官们还能选择橄榄菜、南乳、咸菜、咸鱼及花生等杂咸。

What is Teochew porridge without the ever-present Fried Dace with Black Beans, Salted Egg and Preserved Chilli Beancurd just to name but three. After a quick round of refills of our Chinese Tea (and yet more porridge), it’s time to keep the dishes coming… Olive Vegetables, Preserved Beancurd, Salted Vegetables, Salted Fish, Braised Peanuts and more. The dishes served here are old favourites – simple yet so good, with every dish priced rather reasonably, starting from RM2.50 per dish (up to RM12.00), which encourages over-ordering since the portions come in tapas-size plates.

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越简单的家常小菜越是动人心,金阁楼的大葱煎蛋(也能挑选菜圃煎蛋)、咸鱼炒豆芽与炒茄子就是如此对味。没有一丝的火候与调味功力绝对无法胜任,大葱煎蛋酥脆而不油腻(大人对其蛋花边啧啧称奇不已);豆芽爽口脆嫩;茄子软而不烂,完全可以想像师傅在厨房时的那份用心。

For those who still couldn’t comprehend what’s so great about eating porridge with plain steamed, salted or braised dishes which could be too ordinary to many and is nothing remarkable, think again. Among the traditional side dishes, our favourite was the fried omelette with onion (there’s another Chye Poh or preserved radish variation), which’s perfectly round and crisp around the edges with a light, fluffy centre.  The Eggplant with Minced Pork was soft and fragrant, while the Bean Sprouts were crunchy, which comes with chunks of Salted Fish giving it more crunches and a touch of appetising tanginess. Overall, the outcome is saliva-inducing food packed with flavour and aroma.

这道鸡丝炒四川榨菜,口感咸度掌控得宜(一般上四川榨菜若处理不当,会咸得难以入口或软绵无脆感);而金阁楼的炒包菜则保留了包菜原有的爽脆,不会太过油腻。此外,其他热炒如菜心、番薯叶及炒豆干也是不容错过的必点小菜。看着这些充满回忆的美食,怎么就是有种令人开心上一整天的魔力?

j4Special mention must be made of the Spicy Sichuan Vegetable with Shredded Chicken, whose taste is a combination of spicy, sour, and salty. For the uninitiated however, these Chinese preserved vegetables may be too pungent in scent and appear rather unpalatable, but for us, the dish was well-executed. For more nutritious and natural goodness, take your pick from a wide variety of stir-fried greens such as cabbages, choy sum, sweet potato leaf and long beans just to complete a hearty meal which’s pretty much guilt-free.

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话匣子一开,食欲也跟着大增。一桌子的家传小菜,喝粥吃菜配话,筷子夹起的雋永滋味,入口后毫不费工地暖和了大人的心胃。

Every dish we tried lived up to the name of Teochew porridge dishes, simple with the taste of home cooked food. After all, what else could be more fulfilling than something so light and easy on the stomach after days of consuming heavy fare?

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能在这挥杆的绝佳环境中静享有滋有味的清粥小菜,何尝不是人生一大乐事?Ponderosa Golf & Country Club 的潮州粥将从7月11日起幸福上桌,快偕同挚爱同享哦!

When our craving for authentic Teochew porridge hits, or when anyone call to ask “Jiak Ba Buay?” in Hokkien or Teochew (which translates to “Have you eaten?”), our intuitive response is now “JOM Ponderosa Golf & Country Club“, for its wide selection, personable service, in a comfortable air-conditioned environment and most importantly, at a comfortable price we can also afford to indulge every now and then…

 

Ponderosa Golf & Country Club 

1st Floor, Hop Sing Chinese Restaurant
No.3, Jalan Ponderosa 1, Taman Ponderosa, Johor Bahru

Time: Mon – Sun : 12.00noon – 2.30pm
Price: Start from RM2.50 to RM12.00
Reservation: +607-354 9999 (Ext. 255) or +6016-763 4496 (Wish)
Email: enquiry@ponderosagolf.com
Website: www.ponderosagolf.com
HALAL

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