忙碌因夜晚而息,夜晚为相聚而生。大人今夜与新山罗咪老街 “Night at Replacement” 有约 What happens when day turns into Night at Replacement?

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人]

晨昏线是地球上昼半球和夜半球的分界线,日出日落,昼夜立分。当大地披上夜幕后,七点霓虹灯初上,The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen 也随之与晨昏线同调,纯白墙衣不再似白昼高调,气温失去了张牙舞爪的蛮力,识相地降了几度,可那渐层的紫霓让谁也无法再伪装内心的炽热。

忙碌因夜晚而息,夜晚为相聚而生。
大人今夜在,新山罗咪老街 (Jalan Dhoby) 的 Night at Replacement

There are few sights more impressive than a city at night shimmering under the bright glow of illumination, or buildings reflecting the vibrant colours of the twilight sky. Wherever we are in the world (and Johor Bahru’s included), any town will be transformed as day turns into night, and there are amazing scenes and moments to be captured.

If there’s something that always hits the spot when paired with post-work drinks at this point, it’s tapas. Light and delectable, these savoury dishes are served in small portions on sharing platters and are best washed down with a glass of specialty drink and a dose of good company in a convivial atmosphere. When we caught wind of the all-new tapas menu at The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen, we decided it was time to head back to Jalan Dhoby, considering our last visit more than awhile ago.

若说历史让淳朴老街充满了知性的专利,那 Night at Replacement 的诞生则让老街一瞬间逆龄了好几岁。醒神咖啡香,六点准时谢幕;微醺酒香,七点准时登场。这儿的主人因眷念着旅行时的美好小时光,进而生念把当时的情景都给迁进了馆子里。为分享而生的何止是酒饮,精心混搭烹制的开胃小食 (Tapas) 更是称职地不得了,美艳不可方物之余,滋味更是难挡。

【大人小分享】Night at Replacement 的食材由获清真认证的供应商提供,并竭力以本地时鲜上桌。以下所示价格皆未含服务税与消费税。

Possibly the first of its kind in Johor Bahru, The Replacement is a cool place to see showcases of old town vibes while hanging out and sipping specialty coffee and all-day brunch. From 10am to 6pm, the eatery still dishes out its signature churros and coffee, but come 7pm, it’s “replacement” now morphs into a tapas bar serving tipples and small plates at night where we can dig into Spanish tapas with Asian ingredients.

PS: All ingredients used are from Halal certified suppliers and from local sources at its freshest best to cater to all guests.

生活本是一场旅行,心动的地方更是让人想久留。在 The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen – Bed and Breakfast,除了能享各式精致料理与特色饮料外,位于二楼的住宿空间也是念旧旅人们的一时之选,欲详阅可点击:入夜后在新山老街赏星月轨迹,留一宿 The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen – Bed and Breakfast: for the wanderlust to rest between wanders!

Kudos to Edward and his team for giving JB a nook to celebrate good food, there’s no question about how more convenient and location-savvy it could be to have a Bed & Breakfast situated just above the cafe for the wanderlust to rest between wanders!

Craft Beer (Hitachino Red)
Mocktail (Citrus Sparkle)
Japanese Highball (White Oak Akashi)

Night at Replacement 的夜饮组合分为4部曲:Japanese Highball (RM30) , Craft Beer (RM30), Mocktail (RM18)  Hot Tea (RM12)。

Craft Beer 类别中点选了 Hitachino Red (上左图,RM30),「淡雅米香,入口后回甘。结合着清酒与啤酒的双重滋味。」除了赤米,亦有 Hitachino White, Two Birds Taco, Brewdog Jackhammer, Rogue AmericanOld Engine Oil 静待青睐。

Mocktail 类别中的 Citrus Sparkle (上右图,Yuzu, Peach, Orange Zest, RM18)「恍如乔装为果汁的鸡尾酒,尤其柚桃互不抢味,适口宜人。」

Japanese Highball 类别中,大人所品的为日本白橡木明石威士忌 White Oak Akashi (下图,Marshmallow, Spices, Raw Corn and Vanilla, RM30) ,乃由拥有逾120年酿酒技术的日本国宝级酒藏手工酿制而成,较苏格兰威士忌口感细腻,「闻起来微呛,少了烟煤味,入口后却温和回甘。」

Starting with the Drinks section of the menu, drinkers will be glad to hear that Night at Replacement offers a small but well-curated selection that is both modest in length yet wide in variety for you to imbibe. We are usually not a fan of malty beers, but the Hitachino Red was unlike any beer we’ve ever tasted, with bursts of bold, ripe fruit combine with earthy, roasted, rice flavours that’s reminiscent of sake! If this is not your glass of Craft Beer, you can take your pick from Hitachino WhiteTwo Birds Taco, Brewdog Jackhammer, Rogue American and the trusted Old Engine Oil!

For those of you who fancy non-alcoholic cocktail, These mocktail selection will let you join the party without getting schnockered, and they also happen to taste really good. Don’t settle for just a glass of Citrus Sparkle, with the fragrant, slightly bitter citrus notes of yuzu, peach and orange zest divinely refreshing and screams summer anytime!

The Japanese Highball we had was an infusion of White Oak Akashi, whose aroma is delicate with notes of marshmallow, spices, raw corn and vanilla. Slightly hickory-smoked but without the typical smokiness of Scottish whisky, we thought their Japanese counterpart from Hyogo (West of Kobe) has a somewhat smoother and balanced finish.

Soil – Beetroots  |  Baby Gem  |  Asparagus

不得不赞这儿的开胃小食,滋味远超大人所能预见,丝毫不因是下酒菜而马虎。以蔬果为主的 Soil 系列色彩斑斓,围桌而坐尝得特别尽兴。大人这一回点选了 Beetroots (上图,Beet, Granola, Yougurt Dressing, RM15),「好清新的一道小菜!新鲜的甜菜根,经微微盐烤后稠实可口。惊喜之处自是添入豆子、燕麦与优格乳后,酸甜异香恰到好处。」健康与美味指数鲜能雷同,Beetroots 乃个中佳例。

Depending on the season, we can enjoy the most excellent produce for that time of the year in a good variety of conceptual tapas dishes. If you only have space for one from the Soil section, go for the Beetroots with yoghurt dressing. We certainly can’t beat the beets for this sweet, savoury combination that works perfectly and is topped off with granola that adds crispness to the melt in our mouth texture and all the flavours we love!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

貌不惊人的 Baby Gem (中左,Baby Gem, Tomato, Salsa Verde, Granola, RM14) 让大人另眼相看!以娃娃菜为主,番茄与燕麦豆子为辅,再拌上欧芹青酱,「这真的超好吃!豆子与橄榄油青酱好搭调生香!

The fresh Baby Gem with thinly sliced tomato in salsa verde dressing managed to achieve a delicate balance between savoury and refreshing which we appreciated. This interesting touches of savouriness, with the granola adding a hint of crunchiness, but still manage to wrap it up rather refreshingly.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★☆

清脆多汁的翠绿芦笋 Asparagus (Asparagus, Poached Egg, Chorizo, Brown Butter, RM18) 与软绵的水波蛋、西班牙肉肠丁携手演出,感动了大人的味蕾。「奶油香绝对让这道下酒菜生色不少,戳破了那诱人蛋黄后只会让滋味有过之而无不及。

We are not sure if anyone has ever described an asparagus with “grilled to (near) perfection”, but we thought this best sums up the lightly seasoned Asparagus that were well-cooked with none of that bitter aftertaste and yet retained its firm and nutty flavours. Overall, the combination of asparagus with poached egg, chorizo with brown butter balances out the dish wonderfully.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

【大人小分享】Soil 系列共有6道精选开胃蔬食:Asparagus, Beetroots, Baby Gem, Potato, Tempura Tomato

Take your pick of 6 types of Soil from Asparagus, Beetroots, Baby Gem, Potato, Tempura and Tomato.

Sea – Prawn  |  Clams  |  Squid  |  Fish

食蔬如此出色,想必海鲜更甭质疑,是吧?「原来下酒菜可以如此认真被对待。

以西班牙加泰隆尼亞人常使用的 Romesco 酱料缀在鲜虾之上,让这道 Prawn (上图,Grilled Prawn, Romesco Sauce, Potato, Spring Onion, RM24) 带有微微酸甜清咸,将虾子的鲜美爽口往上调升了一个等级,「只想偷偷告诉你,那匿藏於葱段下的马铃薯,清雅滋味一点也不逊於主角。

As for the food from the Sea, freshness is key, and their seafood dishes are bursting with clean flavours. We couldn’t help ourselves raving about the homemade potato mash well hidden beneath the spring onion either, even though it just plain potato.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★☆

让大人既想下酒又想下饭的蛤蜊啊~ 咸香酱汁太迷人,真怕会一时把持不住。」Clams (中左,Clams, Parsley, Onion, Chorizo, RM18) 搭上西班牙咸辣香肠、洋葱、香菜热炒,甜咸香气甚足,没有白饭的夜晚,就让微烤面包当先锋吧。

In between bites of the firm, fresh prawns, the Clams are a welcome breath of cold, fresh air that enlivens our palate throughout the dish. Deliciously charred and chewy, we highly recommend this to anyone!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★☆

Squid (中右,Fried Market Squid, Lime Aioli, RM16) 完全就是典型下酒必吃的小菜,「搭上食蔬与数滴柠檬雨,眨眼片甲不留。

Simply seasoned and tenderly cooked, these firm, chewy pieces of Squid soaked up the lime aioli and is a joy to have with a mug of ice-cold craft beer.

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

每日采买的鱼种根据笨珍鱼市场上的新鲜度而择,上桌后掀开的那一刻必是主人晨间亲选的美味,Fish (下图,Market Fish Catch of The Day, Tomato, Salsa Verde, Shallots, in En Papilotte Style, RM28) 「主人家采用了传统法式家庭半蒸半烤的纸包鱼方式将鱼肉的鲜味与水份紧锁其中!这嫩度完全就是新鲜的最佳注解!与欧芹青酱的搭配简直让举座惊艳!由于只取最新鲜的渔获为当日主角,大人建议各位就将惊喜保留在“拆礼”的那一刻吧!

A spin-off from the typical tapas dishes, we have to say this Fish is our favourite of the list. Using only the fresh market catch of the day cooked “en papillote” in a large square of parchment paper, our fish fillet emerges succulent and saturated with flavours from the accompanying tomato, salsa verde and shallots. We found there’s truly a lot to like about food wrapped like a little present that is worth it’s 5-star rating!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★★

【大人小分享】Sea 系列共有5道精选开胃海鲜小食:Prawn, Fish, Clams, Squid Eel

PS: Fresh on the Sea menu are the Prawn, Fish, Clam, Squid and Eel.

Meat – Beef on Pepper  |  Beef Steak  |  Grilled Chicken

Beef on Pepper (上图,Top Side Beef Mince, Bell Pepper, Bagna Cauda, Rocket, RM18) 是这儿蛮受欢迎的开胃小食,以牛肉碎搭配特制意式热酱浇身,伴吃灯笼椒与芝麻菜,口感层次丰富多汁,秒杀。「可别以为牛肉碎就毫无嚼劲哦!这道软硬兼具、蔬肉同在的小食,集微辣、咸、苦于一身,难怪能成为桌上必点。

Breaking away from the mainstays, the Beef on Pepper was unlike our usual stir fried zi-char dish, adding a mild bell pepper-like sweetness to a hearty portion of top side minced meat. Add bagna cauda and rocket to the mix, and we have a real winner here!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

Beef Steak (下左,Skirt Steak, Baby Potato, Chimichurri Sauce, RM28) 为这儿的另一道牛肉小食,嚼劲与好感度十足!「蘸上特制酱汁后的牛肉越嚼越多汁啊!好过瘾。而皮衣披上一抹盐的烤薯口味亦简朴动人,好吃。

While we loved the Beef on Pepper, the Beef Steak was the one that stole our hearts. Literally “beef steak”, think skirt steak grilled to perfect tenderness, accompanied by baby tomato mixed with Argentinian-inspired chimichurri sauce. Each piece of the tasty cut prized for its flavour rather than tenderness with a chewy bite, and grill over a fire until the meat is charred on the outside and medium rare within. Must try!!!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★★

Grilled Chicken (下左,Chicken Thigh, Lentils, Green Apple Vinaigrette, RM16) 则巧搭了小扁豆增添饱足感,「皮衣薄脆,这弹牙鸡腿肉在齿缝中生香而不生腻,为何?全因特调苹果醋帮了个大忙!

The Grilled Chicken is an attractive layering of tender chicken thigh served with lentils, but it’s the green apple vinaigrette that’s the showstopper. You will appreciate the difference when you have it both ways.

食验味星 Rating ★★★☆

【大人小分享】Meat 系列共有5道精选开胃肉食:Beef on Pepper, Grilled Chicken, Beef Steak, Chicken Wings  Sausage Platter。

Choose from 6 types of Meat, ranging from Beef on Pepper, Grilled Chicken, Beef Steak, Chicken Wings and Sausage Platter.

Dessert – Signature Fried Bao with Ice Cream (a set of two: Matcha & Milk)

好趣致的包子,远看还以为是鸡蛋汉堡呢!原来是 Night at Replacement 一套二式的当家小点 – 冰淇淋汉堡 (Signature Fried Bao with Ice Cream, a set of two: Matcha & Milk, RM18)!「炸得酥脆的包子搭上冰淇淋,一冷一热简直嗨翻唇齿间!切记,这是道一刻也不能等的小食噢!趁热进食!品尝冰淇淋汉堡就别顾及仪态了,大口大口吃才脾涼舒爽啊!

If you think “fried” ice cream rolls are nothing special anymore, wait till you try their Signature Fried Bao with Ice Cream that comes in a set of two with Matcha and natural Milk goodness. With just the right blend of sweet and savoury, the Night at Replacement‘s interpretation has a pleasant warm and cold interplay sensation with a creamy texture and smooth consistency that is best enjoyed while it’s “hot”!!!

食验味星 Rating ★★★★

喝酒吃菜配话,日子特别愉悦,大人发觉 Night at Replacement 的 Tapas 料理倾向将本地食材里那最鲜的滋味与佐料的天然香气二合为一相辅相成,极具心思,值得推荐。「谁说老街没有 Night Life 呢?姑且不论您是在地人抑或是旅人,7点后的时光请记得与这儿有约。

Two years on, The Replacement Lodge & Kitchen is just as fantastic, if not more so with the newly introduced tapas menu. Regardless if the clock strikes 7pm, do not leave Jalan Dhoby without some HTHT or having a hearty meal at The Replacement, day or night.

The Replacement – Lodge & Kitchen
Night @ Replacement

Address: 33 – 34, Jalan Dhoby, Johor Bahru.
Time: Friday, Saturday & Sunday (7pm – 11pm)
NO PORK, NO LARD

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Valid from 9 June 2017 to 31 May 2018
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结案陈词 Verdict
  • 环境 Ambience
    8
  • 价格 Price
    7
  • 食物选择 Variety
    7
  • 服务态度 Service
    7
  • 味道点评 Taste
    8
The Good
The Bad
0
7.410
MAGistrate 杂志大人

Creative Director & Chief Chinese Editor

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