氤氲於方寸间的咖啡香,有实力又何需哗众取宠?My Liberica Coffee: Bringing coffee back to the basics using quality beans!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人   资料 Sub-editor 郑大人]

常言道「台上一分钟,台下十年功」,这句话若以大人今日专访的精品咖啡馆内四壁与家饰来验证必然属实,因为大人还没入店就闻到了浓郁的咖啡香气氤氤氲氲在这方寸之间,这是一股名为「专注」的气味。五年间默默吸收了咖啡日月精华的非生物,倒也间接应证了店家忠于自己的坚持。

坚持理念,四个字,知易行难。试想当面对大环境排山倒海而来的更迭时,求稳已非易事,更何况是坚持理念。犹记得幼时家中长辈常说,「关关难过,关关过」,冲破难关需要的不仅是具判断力的智慧,也得有豁出去拼了的勇气与决心,冲破了那一关,战斗力自然上扬。

It takes 10 years of hard work behind the scene for every minute of glory on stage, and the same could be said of this simple small cafe born out of only one reason: a passion for coffee, and bringing it back to the basics and using quality ingredients for every step.

Today, there are endless options when it comes to coffee, with numerous cafes popping up everywhere, styles and combinations abound. If the beans are not delicious on its own, our coffee is not what it could be, no matter what creamer, sweetener, or syrup we add. Not just a fad cashing in on the mad coffee rush, My Liberica Coffee is actually deeply rooted in Johor and actually has its own coffee bean plantation in Kulai. From seed to cup, My Liberica Coffee promises to be part of the growing coffee scene for years to come.

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2011年8月4日於新山百合花园诚稳立业的 My Liberica Coffee,历经兄弟数人的胼手胝足,一步一脚印冲破无尽难关,终于在本地精品咖啡市场上有了「从咖啡种植到制成一杯咖啡完全掌控的咖啡企业的鲜明定位,这或多或少缘自于务农家族的实干作风,有实力又何需哗众取宠的噱头,是不?

大哥博乾 Jason 与小弟博勳 Bryan 今日特地於百忙之中从自家咖啡园赴大人的约,大人原以为这将会是一场极为认真探讨精品咖啡的见面会,事前还研读了不少咖啡知识以免贻笑大方…岂知两兄弟谈吐极度幽默风趣,话匣子一开,天南地北一聊竟从中午延续到日落啊!「刚开业的半年里,我们几兄弟真的就在这儿打地铺,虽然拥有种植咖啡的背景但完全没有餐饮经营经验就开始创业确实吃尽苦头,所幸当时生意还不错,业务巅峰期间甚至在馆前还能见着长长的排队人龙。」大哥 Jason 回忆起5年前的奋斗史仍旧历历在目。

始终坚信”开业就得信任员工”的他,透过这些年的经验逐步建立起一套兼顾咖啡品质、环境与服务的完整内部管理系统,早年因资金匮乏,甚至连店内所有的设计动线也得一把抓。原对室内设计一窍不通的 Jason,无计可施之下只好硬着头皮自行拼凑绘图,所幸老天待他不薄,负责为其制作店内家私的老师傅亲自出马倾囊相授,才完成了今日你我身处所见的 My Liberica Coffee,「有了这样的经历,设计自己非常在乎的内部动线也就自然而然成为了我日后的傍身之技。」

Having first started operations on 4 August 2011, My Liberica Coffee is the brainchild and vision of the eldest Liew, supported by three brothers, who each have a different role in the business, each focusing on the coffee plantation, roasting, marketing and overall operational side of things. Recently, we had the pleasure of catch up with Jason, the big brother and Bryan to visit the very farm and processing mill, where it all begin. [More on our farm tour later]

Taking a guided personal walking tour of the coffee fields and the processing facilities, both Jason and Bryan recount the early days when they decided to venture into the cafe business. Even with many years of experience managing their coffee plantations, running a cafe is an entirely different story, as the enormity of what faced them finally began to sink in as the Liew brothers literally made a home out of their cafe premises. We can almost imagine their days off were few and far between, holidays non-existent and hours were long. Cash flow in the early days was tight, to the extent that the Liew brothers had to DIY the interior from scratch practically. So, with a lot of hard work, a few tears, precious few arguments (thankfully) and the unexpected aid from a contractor who spared no effort in sharing his expertise and helped put together a proper floor plan and countless drawings, before My Liberica Coffee could become a reality!

On the plus side, neither were the brothers prepared for just how much fun it was too, as they looked back over the past 5 years, having met so many wonderful people and brewed some fantastic coffees and teas and made some delightful bites along the way.

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满室大地色调,在这家举目皆是暖心实木的咖啡馆内,泡制咖啡的嘻唰声响萦绕耳边,已成潜意识里不可或缺的一角。一杯好咖啡足以让六感顿开,难怪始终戒不了咖啡的知音那么多。

Jason 笑称自己并非天生就为嗜咖啡之人,「2005年在台湾求学时被虹吸式咖啡所吸引,随后疯狂购入大量咖啡书籍与器具,进而非常享受炒豆过程与期待每一次的风味成果。」 Jason 一路坚持走到现在的,始终是味道这回事。毕业后曾留台工作数载的他,历经事业低潮期,那一刻的不顺心不禁让他开始思索未来与人生目标。就读国立台大农艺系兼且来自务农世家,返乡让家族事业提升并进入永续经营模式,似乎成为了他冥冥中的使命。位于柔佛古来占地50英亩的咖啡园即为 Jason 回国后的心血之作,弟弟们毕业后也相继加入了这一门家族事业,并在机缘巧合下开拓了品牌特许经营的作业流程系统,时至今日已陆续展店至茂奥斯汀、古来与五福城。

As a third wave cafe believing in artisanal coffee and food, My Liberica is considered a stalwart of the local coffee scene and one of the first specialty cafes to open in JB. Spotting a classy decor that features lots of wood for that warm and welcoming feeling, the cafe is well designed with many cosy nooks for us to chill and enjoy coffee and cakes.

Much to our surprise, Jason was actually a non-coffee addict with no prior knowledge of speciality brew, but a chanced encounter in a cafe while studying in Taiwan has left him mesmerised by the theatrical nature of the syphon brewing method. Jason wasted no time in reading up and tried his hand on learning the trade, and the rest were history. On returning to JB having earned his agricultural degree from Taiwan National University, Jason began turning part of the family’s oil palm plantation near Bukit Batu into a 50-acre Liberica coffee plantation and was joined by his younger siblings upon their graduation. The business soon grew to become fully vertically integrated, and My Liberica soon ventures beyond Taman Molek to Mount Austin, Indahpura and Taman Sutera Utama.

土生土长的 Liberica – 自家精品生产的咖啡豆

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My Liberica 顾名思义专售世界三大咖啡品种之一的赖比瑞亚咖啡 (Liberica),「之所以取名为 My Liberica 除了有自家咖啡园如何诠释豆子的种植、处理、调配及冲泡的含义之外,也代表了这为马来西亚土生土长所种植 (Malaysia) 的 Liberica。原产于西非赖比瑞亚的Liberica 向有魔鬼豆之称,味道不易让人接受,像其他品种每100公斤的产量即能处理约20公斤的豆子,而 Liberica 只能处理7公斤,成本因而相对较高。由于土壤、气候、文化皆会让咖啡展现出不同风味,因此我们在自家园地不断开发、栽种与钻研豆子的处理法,利用咖啡废料制作成有机肥料并施用於园中、让果皮及咖啡花也能制作成茶等,专注在烘培控制炒豆深浅的老四博渊 Adam 也试图在每一季变化出更多的口味。」由于对品质极有要求,My Liberica 自家的豆子皆以全手工精挑,成本也随之高涨。初时接手园地时,购入的器材其实并不适用,因 Liberica 的浆果与种子比 Arabica 大了近两倍,别无他法只能自行动手将原专为小果及中果而设的机器改装成大果适用的版本,这一路的披荆斩棘,只因在 My Liberica 的字典里始终不允许有坏豆或瑕疵豆的存在。

【 大人小分享】咖啡豆大致可分为以下三大原种:阿拉比卡 Arabica,占全球产量约55%;罗巴斯塔 Robusta,占全球产量约45%;赖比瑞亚  Liberica,占全球产量约1%,生产国多供自销。

By now, it’s no secret that My Liberica is named after the Liberica coffee beans which are grown on their farm in Kulai – what patriotism to use homegrown coffee beans and even name their cafe after it! Originally found in Liberia in West Africa and then brought to Indonesia during the late 19th century, and are also grown in Malaysia and the Philippines. Surprise surprise, the Liberica bean only represents a mere 1% of total worldwide coffee production, with the majority being Arabica and Robusta varieties.

Jason chose to grow Liberica because it is a lowland coffee varietal and thrives well in the slightly acidic soil in his farm. Despite the strong coffee smell produced, the demand for this bean is relatively low because of the mild taste. However, the Liberian coffee beans can be harvested all year long, and the berries’ size is the largest compared to the other coffee species and has harder skin. It takes more time to process, and that might be the reason why it has strong aroma and flavour.

My Liberica is the one and only specialty Liberica coffee bean producer in Malaysia, with the Liew family taking full control from seed to cup, with their own coffee plantation, processing mill, roastery and an in-house cafe that serves specialty Liberica coffee in Johor.

全马独家首创 - 咖啡果皮香槟 Cascara Champagne

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馆内招牌饮料 - 咖啡果皮香槟 (Cascara Champagne, RM15) 乃全马首创,将苏打注入饮料中后香气四溢,再以高脚香槟杯示众,「有汽的带甜咖啡果皮香槟果然让人忘了其原身竟与咖啡有关。为了不影响风味, My Liberica 就连冰块也是以 Cascara 诚意制成,难怪能成为馆内人气之选。」Jason 此时笑称,开发创意饮料毕竟还是弟弟们比较在行啊!

Besides the usual lattes, cappuccinos and espressos, we also get to enjoy the full range of exotic specialty coffees, beginning with the Cascara Champagne. Also known as coffee pulp, Cascara is the skin from the coffee cherry – a surprising yet ingenious choice that warrants its place as the first of its kind Cascara Champagne in Malaysia. Double strain into a highball glass filled with Cascara cube and top with soda water and serve, the result is a sophisticated New World meets Old World coffee cocktail that is the perfect start or finish to any meal.

食验味星 (一般为五星满级,偶尔会爆表) / Rating ★★★★

君度橙香咖啡 Cointreau Coffee

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加入了一茶匙法国出品的君度橙酒后,这杯由博倫所特调的君度橙香咖啡 (Cointreau Coffee, RM18) 立即显得与众不同。由100%全天然橙皮精酿,风靡世界150多年的君度橙酒其实并不会过于苦涩,「融合着巧克力、咖啡、橙酒与奶香,这杯如甘泉般的饮料毫无意外广受好评,浓郁的柑橘香久久不散让人回味无穷,大人啜饮后的表情竟与拉花神似!」

The Cointreau Coffee by Loon offered some respite for those rare moments when we need to choose between coffee, alcohol and dessert as we are already so full that we can only have one. Cointreau is a unique orange liqueur, produced according to a secret recipe that has remained unchanged for 150 years, our palettes found the flavours to be perfectly balanced between bitter orange and sweetness with a lingering coffee note. Guess what, we couldn’t quite tell our faces apart from the latte art that’s in the cup LOL!

食验味星 (一般为五星满级,偶尔会爆表) / Rating ★★★★

抹茶拿铁 Matcha Latte

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这杯抹茶拿铁 (Matcha Latte, RM10) 热饮,以清香的自选优质抹茶粉、滋味醇厚的新鲜蒸奶及奶泡混合而成,「在意大利文中,Latte其实是牛奶的意思,抹茶拿铁意指抹茶牛奶,并无咖啡成分。午后抿几口抹茶独有的绵密香浓茶涩,温暖得让大人无法招架。」

Matcha has a softer and creamier flavour, with higher antioxidant content than standard green tea brews and hence can offer us a warming ritual similar to drinking an espresso coffee, but with arguably fewer downsides. The Matcha Latte has the milky goodness and slightly bitter yet fragrant green tea flavour balanced together, giving us an intriguing mix that we still find irresistible even to date. Oishii desu ne!

食验味星 (一般为五星满级,偶尔会爆表) / Rating ★★★★

抹茶冰沙 Matcha Ice Blended

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含强化抗氧功效的抹茶,大人自是一杯也不会放过!不喜热饮的看官们不妨点选这杯 My Liberica 抹茶冰沙 (Matcha Ice Blended, RM15) 来抗衡室外高温。精选来自日本的抹茶粉,鲜奶油上再缀以几颗自制抹茶冻,Q韧清爽「真是铺天盖地的绿意盎然啊!」

If you prefer your matcha nice and cold, the Matcha Ice Blended we tried was creamy, frothy and flavourful, with a subtle hint of green tea where we can actually taste the ‘matcha-ness’ and fine distinct quality of the powder in its subtlety. We particularly enjoyed the jelly cubes which was simply matcha-licious!

食验味星 (一般为五星满级,偶尔会爆表) / Rating ★★★★

太妃糖香蕉松饼 Banoffee Waffle – Vanilla Ice Cream

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想要在 My Liberica 瞧见热食的踪影?答案可能要让各位绝望了。开业至今老板们始终坚持以咖啡为主,轻食为辅的原则 (由于热食的油烟有很强的附着力,对整个空间的咖啡气息将产生极大的影响),所以今日咱们就点一份当家轻甜食太妃糖香蕉松饼 (Banoffee Waffle, RM18.90) 来尝尝吧!「噢?何谓 Banaffee? 原来是太妃糖与香蕉 (Banana x Toffee) 的创意结合体。厚实香脆的松饼叠上太妃香蕉与香草雪糕,用作饱腹绝不是问题。乍看之下像不像八爪鱼在阻止大人侵犯松饼啊 😄 !」

The Banoffee Waffle (Banana Toffee) is a rare treat and hits all the right spots, and is by far one of the best renditions we’ve had in town. The crisp waffle, the sweet toffee and the fresh bananas all came together beautifully. Then again maybe we are biased because we love anything coffee and toffee!

食验味星 (一般为五星满级,偶尔会爆表) / Rating ★★★★

鸡蛋美乃滋牛角三文治 Croissant Sandwich – Egg Mayonnaise

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另一道极受青睐的轻食既是鸡蛋美乃滋牛角三文治 (Croissant Sandwich – Egg Mayonnaise, RM11) 。将原本咸香酥脆的牛角面包制成扁平状,内馅可见清爽食蔬与鸡蛋美乃滋,「记得趁热尽速享用那百分百的香脆啊!」

What can we say about these delectably crisp French delight baked to a glorious golden hue, with the delicious egg and fresh garden salad with mayo all sandwiched in a scrumptious butter croissant? Filling, flaky, and sinfully good, just remember to enjoy it warm!

食验味星 (一般为五星满级,偶尔会爆表) / Rating ★★★★

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不跟风不亦云,这也是许多每日闻香而至的常客与慕名而来的非常客,放心将一天一杯的额度交付于 My Liberica 的主因。

2016年12月,My Liberica 再有新作,位于柔佛武吉峇都 (Bukit Batu) 的咖啡处理厂将转型以更透明与富教育意义的角度出发,透过组团观园的形式让公众更深入了解这仅占世界1%产量的赖比瑞亚咖啡豆。对大人来说,这无疑是柔佛、甚至於马来西亚独有的咖啡文化资产。欲想了解参观详情,可点阅询问 My Liberica Farm & Processing Mill 

Come December, My Liberica Farm & Processing Mill near Bukit Batu will be opening their gates to the public for educational visits and scheduled tours for schools, families and coffee lovers to see some rare Liberica beans up close and personal. Make no mistake, the four brothers are on a mission not to get ready customers for their father’s coffee farm, but rather promote and elevate the status of our local Malaysian coffee to an international level in line with other specialty coffees, which in turn will encourage other farmers to plant more coffee plants and export the beans. The process may be long and arduous, but Jason and his enterprising siblings seem to be making inroads.

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My Liberica Coffee @ Taman Molek

Address:  73, Jalan Molek 3/10, Taman Molek, Johor Bahru.
Reservation: +607 – 361 1069
Time: Taman Molek & Mount Austin: 12.30pm-10.30pm (Sun-Thu) 12.30pm-11.30pm (Fri-Sat); Kulai & Taman Sutera: 1.30pm-11.30pm (Taman Sutera Branch closed on Wednesday)
Website: myliberica.my

NO PORK NO LARD

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结案陈词 Verdict
  • 环境 Ambience
    7
  • 价格 Price
    7
  • 食物选择 Variety
    7
  • 服务态度 Service
    8
  • 味道点评 Taste
    8
The Good
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0
7.410
MAGistrate 杂志大人

Creative Director & Chief Chinese Editor

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