置身色香味形意中,完美诠释一试成主顾的中式飨馔 - 美楽軒 A veritable trove of culinary “KS Treasures” awaits!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 刘大人]

就在外界哗然店址的前身餐馆为何舍得迁离此热点的极短时间内,大人便已发现这堪称新山大丰花园美食地标的商业角头单位居然悄悄动工了!密探捎来消息禀报大人这将会是一家中餐馆!到底是哪家店老板如此独具慧眼抢得这么好的地理位置呢?正所谓「没有三两三,哪敢上梁山!」想必来者绝对实力坚强!

The folks at Taman Sentosa may have been left bewildered by choice of the previously popular seafood establishment to vacate this landmark location along Jalan Sutera for other pasture green. Moments later “rumour” has it that another household name will soon take its place and shake up the ever-changing F&B scene with cuisines worthy of at least a single Michelin Star *. The question remains: WHO?

#答案揭晓!原来幕后推手乃是大人自幼光顾、位于柔佛再也的老字号《美乐厨坊》!这家名为《美乐轩》的进阶版现代化中餐馆刚於5月19日正式掀开帷幕迎宾,距今仅一个月却已吸引了许多邻里老饕循香而来,可见好味道无需大肆宣传也能透过口耳相传四周啊!

BINGO! For those of you who enjoyed good homestyle food at reasonable prices in Taman Johor Jaya since 1994, you will be glad to know that Kitchen Stories will now up the ante to serve modern Chinese cuisine at this new location. Aptly titled KS Treasures, the restaurant has a bounty of delicious dishes crafted with effort, skills, quality ingredients and helmed by a new head chef. Not yet a month since opening for business on 19 May 2018 and without any media shout out, sheer curiosity and the usual word-of-mouth have indeed travel fast in attracting both the traditionalists and hipsters alike!

大人与友人到访的周日傍晚,即可见许多阖家大小偕老扶幼的饕客围着圆桌享天伦,眼见服务生不停将佳肴送往别桌那一刻,大人早已认定这一餐绝对会让咱们的口腹之欲满意不已,「完全是经由大量偷瞄邻桌的料理而下的结论!」#瞧瞧圆木桌就是有种团圆的味道啊!由两家店面组合而成的室内格局极宽敞明亮,店老板的点睛之作绝对是那几面色彩艳丽的中式雕墙,暖色系就是会让人食指大动啊!

Overall bright, modern, casual and of course with a new concept, we would expect KS Treasures to have something completely different in store, so we are here to taste dishes from the latest additions to the old signatures. Upon arrival, we are warmly greeted by May at the entrance and led to our table. True to our expectations, KS Treasures presents itself with traditional fine-dining opulence that catches our attention immediately when we walk in, with pops of colour and warm decorative touches that brighten up the place.

「新鲜的海鲜们!大人来啦!」位于室外一隅的海鲜缸旁,饕客们即可亲选各式活海鲜让大厨入菜,想到待会儿就要亲自目送你们到厨房,大人内心太矛盾了啦!看来也只能请大厨们下手温柔又俐落,才不辜负这番壮烈的牺牲。

As if to prove the point that the new establishment is not “all the glitz and no substance”,  there is guaranteed freshness here as the ingredients used are literally right outside the restaurant, with tanks of live seafood lining the outer perimeters. And if we do wish, we can witness the catching even choosing our own “victims”, attesting to the freshness that goes into our dishes.

大人活到了这番年纪还不曾烹煮出几道让人回味的料理,而在《美乐轩》与大人年纪相若的执行总厨兼店老板之一的 Chef Benson 却已身怀高超厨艺!来自柔佛昔加末、厨龄逾18年之久的 Chef Benson,曾於新加坡同乐集团、滨海湾金沙酒店、荣膺中国上海浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店的米其林一星中餐馆、美国迈阿密海滩的 Hakkasan 粤式餐馆等地大显厨艺,多年征战在外,大厨其实仍心系大马,经营自家中餐馆始终是他的终极梦想,而《美乐轩》就在其与另一位餐馆伙伴 Jeremy 一拍即合的理念下实现了! Chef Benson 的贤内助 May 也於餐厅里夫唱妇随协助前台运作,「大厨战绩如此彪炳,大人我顿时好期待待会儿上桌的料理!」

The brainchild of Jeremy (owner of Kitchen Stories) and Benson (head chef & co-owner), the new 380-seater KS Treasures doesn’t just shallowly feature a particular cuisine in each dish of its meticulously-designed menus but delivers a timeless hodgepodge of contemporary Asian elements to present a seamless journey. Hailing from Segamat and a proud Anak Johor, Chef Benson‘s culinary experience span over 18 years that took him to Singapore with the Tung Lok Group and Marina Bay Sands Hotel, as well as stints in the award-winning Michelin Star Cantonese restaurant Hakkasan in Miami (USA) and the Ritz Carlton in Shanghai. With such glowing credentials under his belt, we expect to meet a gentleman approaching his fifties, only to be greeted by a youthful looking dude who showed a maturity far beyond his young age!

待餐的同时,友人们亦点了红酒为待会儿的料理作陪,就让大人先来尝尝特备的餐前小菜吧!飘洒了些许辣椒粉的香烤薯块还真别有一番风味呢!大人暖胃后愈加迫不及待!

While waiting for our dinner to be served, just as Chef Benson and his culinary team are in action in the kitchen, we helped ourselves with some crunchy potato appetiser that pairs well with some curry powder (upon request) and took our sips of red wine specially brought along by our host.

养颜椰子炖鸡汤
Chicken Soup, Peach Plum, White Fungus, Coconut

率先上桌的三道前菜与暖汤就让大人充满好感了!瞧瞧这养颜椰子炖鸡汤 (Chicken Soup, Peach Plum, White Fungus, Coconut, RM22/双人份) 多浓郁啊!「喜欢椰香的看官们千万别错过这道养颜汤噢!每一口都能尝到椰子的香味,加上里头藏匿的滋补食材如雪耳、红枣、枸杞等赐予的鲜甜,虽说每份可供双人享用,但为了不老容颜大人好想独享整颗椰盅!」

The first of our three starters was served in a hollowed out coconut shell, the flavourful soup consists of chicken and an assortment of peach plum, white fungus and Chinese herbs which was double-boiled to seal in the essences to provide a nice mixture of sweet coconut & herbal taste. Overall, a yummy & healthy combination, this refreshing Chicken Soup which yields the real fragrance and natural sweetness from the coconut flesh turn out to be an excellent thirst quencher for this hot and humid June. Soup is always good, and we very much enjoyed this to the last drop.

香酥鸭沙律 Deep Fried Duck Salad &
冰镇话梅西红柿 Chilled Cherry Tomato, Sour Plum

被芝麻菜、松子仁、柚子覆盖於底部的鸭肉丝实在勾人口欲,这道香酥鸭沙律 (Deep Fried Duck Salad, RM22, 上图) 的份量太超乎想像啦!「同桌们纷纷赞说这沙律绝对是下回再到访必点的前菜!芝麻菜、柚子与鸭肉匀和后原来如此搭调,大厨出手果然不同凡响!」

红彤彤的冰镇话梅西红柿 (Chilled Cherry Tomato, Sour Plum, RM10) 一上桌就紧抓众人目光!「这西红柿汁饱味微酸甜,大人轻咬一口居然不小心爆浆,好开胃!忍不住又偷偷再用竹签串了几颗入口。」

Moving onto the second dish, the Deep Fried Duck Salad was undoubtedly an exciting starter. Shreds of succulent, deep-fried duck accompanied by wild-rocket, pomelo beads and pine nuts were tossed thoroughly before each serving has a delightful balance of meat with greens, might just be what we need to get our evening boost. With more duck meat than salad greens that are actually delicious, we are definitely not complaining!

One of the dishes that tickled our interest was such a simple, yet lovely Asian appetiser – lightly pickled and Chilled Cherry Tomatoes uniquely served “on the rocks” (on a large mound of shaved ice). Sweet, savoury, tart and juicy, the cured Sour Plum added a tangy pop of sweet juiciness to this bite-size hors-d’oeuvre, packed with flavours waiting to explode in our mouths – a divine way to getting us ready for the upcoming dishes.

金汤一品海鲜泡饭
Poached Seafood Rice with Supreme Bisque

热腾腾的金汤一品海鲜泡饭 (Poached Seafood Rice with Supreme Bisque, RM118/2-4人份; RM228/6-8人份) 从厨房来到桌边的距离,简直让大人找不到不钦点它的理由!置顶的硕大海鲜,浓郁的鲜甜汤头,颗粒分明吸满汤汁的香饭,「再撒上脆米糠就更锦上添花了!」语毕,不停发出赞叹声的大人又想再添一碗啦!

Now onto the always loved and much anticipated Poached Seafood Rice with Supreme Bisque. A stellar dish of the restaurant and one of Chef Benson’s signature dishes, this fan favourite serves up a generous amount of protein with fresh clams, jumbo prawns, live whole crab, crunchy vegetables, fragrant rice and rice crisps adding many layers and oceanic freshness into this soup. Seriously, there’s nothing like tucking into a bowl of rice drenched in a rich seafood-y stock that had us sweeping the pot for the last remnants, and this has become our new-found favourite dish as well.

板烧白胡椒三葱炒斑球 Sauteed Grouper, White Pepper, Trilogy Onion, Cast Iron Plate &
招牌自制翡翠豆腐 Signature Homemade Spinach Beancurd, Enoki, Shimeji Mushroom, Oyster Sauce

无葱不欢的大人我对这道板烧白胡椒三葱炒斑球 (Sauteed Grouper, White Pepper, Trilogy Onion, Cast Iron Plate, RM48/RM70, 上图) 钟爱不已!肉质鲜弹的石斑有了白胡椒的提味,加上三葱的天然香气层层绽放,大厨还巧添了吸满了香汁的炸油条,「惊艳!举筷的手完全不受控!又多夹了几片入口,希望没被大家发现我独吞了那么多啊!」

接连尝了几道料理后,大人发现《美乐轩》的上菜份量真的不容小觑噢!就连轻食料理如招牌自制翡翠豆腐 (Signature Homemade Spinach Beancurd, Enoki, Shimeji Mushroom, Oyster Sauce, RM15/RM22) 里头的最佳绿叶-各式菌菇也挥洒得不假思索!「价格亲民,而且主角与绿叶都是大人的喜欢的食材!」

We always know when the next dish is about to arrive from the intense peppery aroma that wafts our way and accompanied by the sound of the sauce bubbling on the hot cast iron plate. Still sizzling from the heat, the chunky slices of Sauteed Grouper were firm but tender enough to taste the natural sweetness, and we could appreciate the subtle spiciness from the white pepper and onions, especially with the extra chew from the you-char-kway that soaked up all the goodness.

On the other hand, the Signature Homemade Spinach Beancurd was amazingly sublime with soft, rough skin on the outside, and a smooth and creamy texture on the inside. We were glad the tofu has a clean and neutral taste since we find the Oyster Sauce a tad salty, so the beancurd certainly helped to cut through the saltiness. Coupled with Enoki and Shimeiji Mushrooms and hopefully more greens, this dish can definitely add even more nutrients to our meal.

茶香熏烤骨
Smoked Spare Ribs with Longjing Tea Leaf 

单从外观来看,看官们或许不晓得紧接着的两道料理原来各有龙井茶与酒糟的加持呢!茶香熏烤骨 (Smoked Spare Ribs with Longjing Tea Leaf, RM32) 经多时腌制熏烤,早已形成轻剥就骨肉分离的状态,以龙井茶入味的排骨滋味细腻丰盈,微焦的表皮层让人能一次尝到茶香与肉香,「瞬间盘中只剩八根排骨,滋味可想而知!」

By far one of the best ribs we’ve come across, the Smoked Spare Ribs were soft enough to cut through like butter even with chopsticks. The robust, savoury marinade was layered with a unique “musky” taste made possible from smoking it with a right amount of Longjing Tea Leaves, causing each chunk of tea-infused meat to be a burst of flavour with each mouthful. We devoured all eight ribs until the only thing left were bones!

酒酿干烧虾
Sauteed Sea Prawns with Sweet Ferment Rice

酒酿干烧虾 (Sauteed Sea Prawns with Sweet Ferment Rice, RM42/RM65) 搭配 May 亲手制作的樱花馒头,大人姑且就将之视为《美乐轩》的神雕侠侣之作吧!老实说,只需一碗白米饭捞上酒香微甜的酱汁,就足以让人胃口大开啦!若未尝鲜,大人根本不晓得看似调味浓郁的大虾竟还能保持鲜甜滋味,而以弹牙的樱花馒头蘸点酱汁就更合大人之意啦!在座友人突然大呼「这馒头应被列为单点让大家有机会外带回家慢慢尝啊!」

With our inner carnivore awakened by the time we wiped the last morsel of meat off the bone, we were overjoyed upon realising that the next dish was a hearty plate of Sauteed Sea Prawns with Sweet Ferment Rice. With prawns that are sweet and fresh, we almost overlooked the slightly tangy sweet savoury sauce, which tastes mildly alcoholic till we realised there’s more than meets the eyes. As it turns out, we began enthusiastically scooping up the sauces with the sakura-shaped mantou (fried buns) to soak up all the sweet fermented rice gravy. Someone commented that the mantou here has a different texture compared to those at other Chinese restaurants, only to be informed that they were made by the Chef’s wife, May – who first greeted us on our arrival.

Note to Jeremy: Do make these mantou available as ala-carte or side order, we would gladly order or even tapao some home. 🙂

金瓜一品聚宝盆
Braised Assorted Treasures, served in Pumpkin

菜如其名!金瓜一品聚宝盆 (Braised Assorted Treasures, served in Pumpkin, RM68/RM98) 好有年菜的风姿哟!金瓜自带的甜味与海参、鲍贝、鲍笋、鱼鳔、海鲜、香菇、葱段等鲜味相融,「就像妈妈在家中烹煮的好味道!」阖家共赴馆子,这一道必能掳获长辈的心!

And finally, for our finale, we were treated to a wealth of Braised Assorted Treasures, served in Pumpkin. A long-handle ladle was provided so we could actually scrape the flesh off the pumpkin and have it together with the rest of the “treasures” that include slices of dried fish maw, dried sea cucumber, shellfish and braised mushrooms, pretty much like a mini “Poon Choy” that will touch the hearts of the elderly (and young) alike!

饱尝一顿美味料理真是让人一扫抑郁的良方!依依不舍回头张望,发现餐馆二楼远观灯火通明,探听之下原来是店老板正在筹划隐私度较高的专属用餐空间,全方位满足饕客的美食朝圣需求,看来此地又将重回往日车水马龙的荣景了啊!

Overall, it’s clear that Chef Benson is extremely passionate and knowledgeable when it comes to Modern Chinese cuisine. The food plating is exquisite and filled with details, as expected of a fine dining establishment. More importantly, the taste and experience reflected that. Do check out KS Treasures next time you are in the mood to treat yourself to some traditional, yet contemporary Chinese fine dining. We can almost always expect to have to queue for a table soon (like the good old days with the former restaurant), so you might want to get there early or make a reservation to avoid disappointment. Cheers!

 

KS TREASURES 美楽軒
📍155 & 157, Jalan Sutera, Taman Sentosa, 81050 Johor Bahru, Johor
🕚 Daily from 11.30am – 3.00pm; 5.30pm – 10.30pm
📞 +607-665 1133
📧 m.me/KS.TREASURES.RESTAURANT (FB messenger)

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结案陈词 Verdict
  • 环境 Ambience
    7
  • 价格 Price
    8
  • 食物选择 Variety
    8
  • 服务态度 Service
    8
  • 味道点评 Taste
    9
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