原来你与日本四国零距离!濑户内海的时鲜,香川县的讃岐乌冬,说来就来。A taste of Shikoku, delivered to JB by “Shinkansen” via Kokomo Sushi

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译/日译 Translator 刘大人/土屋芳子   摄影 Photographer 刘大人]

大人有次与日籍友人闲话家常时,方才发现原来咱们新山在日本可是赫赫有名的城市啊!这倒也解开了大人我心中的谜团,因为近年来有许多日本连锁餐馆选择落户新山作为首家海外分店,部分原因除了该归功于马来西亚我的第二家园计划 (MM2H) 在海外推展成效不俗外,咱们的优越地理位置也该计上一功。

It came as a pleasant surprise that Malaysia has topped the list of countries favoured by Japanese for extended stays. Apart from our lower living costs, warm year-round climate and the MM2H (Malaysia My Second Home) privileges bestowed on those with the proper visas, the cultural, racial and linguistic diversity also appeals to many Japanese looking for ideal options for their “second life”. With the burgeoning Iskandar Malaysia’s development and close proximity to Singapore said to be a big draw, Johor Bahru is now home to thousands of Japanese families living, working and even retiring comfortably.


说起自个儿对日本的了解,或许仅限于最为人所知的本州以及北海道,因此当瞧见这位于新山百万镇 Kokomo 寿司餐馆前的日本地图指向东南部的四国岛时,「四国岛的名产料理有哪些?」脑海中的问号让大人不禁想更深入了解为何许多日本朋友在谈及自己家乡的一景一物时,言谈间总能散发一股诚挚有自信的气息。

Located south of Honshu and east of Kyushu, Shikoku (literally “four provinces”) is the smallest of the four main islands of Japan and the least populated. Famous for its temple pilgrimage route and steeped in history, rich in culture and filled with natural sights creating a pleasant atmosphere of tradition and country charm, there are some local delights here that we shouldn’t miss if we ever have the chance to visit this region.

本州の南、九州の東に位置する四国は、日本の4つの主要な島の中で最も小さく、人口が最も少ない島です。 その寺院巡礼ルートで有名で、歴史に溢れ、文化に富み、伝統と心地よい雰囲気を作り出す自然の光景が魅力です。

大人瞧见卡片上的公司名称为 Thirty Five F & B,好奇之下问了缘由,原来 Kokomo 的创办人於1983年以35之龄在香川县扎根起家,这36年来一步一脚印,如今在日本已拓展至八家直营店,而位于新山百万镇的这家则是海外首家分行 (2018年7月杪开业)。

「地图上那位于四国东北部的香川县  (Kagawa ken) ,面向濑沪内海 (Setonaikai),乃日本面积最小的一个县。」濑沪内海以品种丰富的海产闻名,而香川县最为人所津津乐道的名产即是「讃岐乌冬」了 (Sanuki Udon,香川县旧称讃岐)。「知其然知其所以然,大人此刻对待会儿想要点选的料理终于有谱了。」

There are many ways to indulge in the delicacies from the Shikoku region, but the easiest one is to head down to Kokomo located in Permas Jaya (opposite Renaissance Johor Bahru Hotel). Founded in Kagawa prefecture of Shikoku in 1983, the brand now operates nine direct-operated revolving sushi shops in Japan, before opening its first Southeast Asian outlet in JB under Thirty Five F & B Malaysia Sdn Bhd last July. Out of curiosity, we were told that the name is in tribute of its founder who founded the brand, though no prize for guessing, at the tender age of 35!

Fresh ingredients are obviously essential in Japanese cuisine, and the Shikoku region is home to abundant and varied seafood from the two seas, wild game meat from the mountains, high-quality rice and vegetables from the plains and delicious nuts and citrus fruit grown in valleys and coastal orchards. Being a real foodie haven, Shikoku is also home to over 900 udon shops, with the highest udon noodle consumption per capita than anywhere in Japan. WOW!

四国地方の郷土料理を満喫する方法はたくさんありますが、最も簡単な方法は、パルマスジャヤ(ルネッサンスホテルの向かい)にある「ここも寿司」へ向かうことです。 1983年に四国の香川県で設立されたこのブランドは、昨年7月にThirty Five F & B Malaysia Sdn Bhdの下でJBに東南アジア初の店舗をオープンしました。日本では8つの直営回転寿司店を運営しています。


Conventionally, we tend to associate quality Japanese food with excessive spending, but that’s not always the case. Managed by Takeshi Nishikawa, Kokomo gives a very authentic Japanese atmosphere. Their menu changes seasonally, with their signature dishes written in Japanese and prominently displayed throughout the restaurant. Fortunately, the list is also available in English, with each seat outfitted with a touch panel tablet that allows us to place our order.

従来、私たちは高品質の日本食を過剰な支出と結びつける傾向がありましたが、そうではありません。 西川剛史さんが運営する「ここも寿司」は、本格的な日本の雰囲気を演出しています。 彼らのメニューは季節によって変わります。彼らの代表的な料理は日本語で書かれて、そしてレストランの至る所に目立つように表示されています。 幸いなことに、このメニューは英語でもご覧になれます。各席には、注文するためのタッチパネルタブレットが装備されています。

Kokomo 独有的「新干线寿司轨道」绝对是这儿的活招牌,店内的每一组座位皆被设计成马来西亚各州列车站,当饕客以平板电脑选定餐点后 (有新干线符号的餐点才会乘车而来哦),只需待餐片刻,运载着寿司与酱料的新干线列车即从厨房出发,并以极速直达您的列车站桌,「4号桌就是咱们柔佛站,不过大人今天是坐在2号森美兰州站迎接寿司们的大驾光临啦!(欢迎欢迎)」

The real draw at Kokomo is, of course, the “high-speed” rails that send sushi hurtling towards us at a breakneck pace. Unlike the typical sushi restaurants with slowly rotating conveyor belts, Kokomo uses a proprietary single rail system that sends trays able to hold three plates of sushi. After we got our food, the empty “train” will automatically depart and rocket back to the kitchen!

If you can’t wait for the real HSR to commence beyond 2026, you can jolly well experience having your favourite sushi delivered right at your home (Johor Bahru) station from Kuala Lumpur (kitchen), or anywhere along the proposed route at Negeri Sembilan (our seat), Melaka and even Singapore 🤣!

「ここも寿司」の魅力のひとつは、もちろん、寿司を猛スピードで送り出す「高速」レールです。 コンベアベルトがゆっくり回転する典型的な寿司レストランとは異なり、独自のシングルレールシステムを使用しています。 私たちが食べ物のお皿を手にとった後、空の「新幹線」は自動的に出発し、高速でキッチンに戻ります。本物のHSR(高速鉄道)が2026年以降に開始されるのを待つことができない場合は、お気に入りの寿司を、クアラルンプール駅からシンガポール駅へのルートに沿った各駅(座席)まで運ばれる経験を楽しむことができますよ!

寿司套餐 (松) Matsu Nigiri Set

中国的岁寒三友 saikansanyū「松竹梅」,原来传扬到了日本不仅成了吉祥的象征,若出现在餐馆或旅宿的价格目录时,则又立即变身为划分等级的分类指示啊!「日文中的「松竹梅」发音为 Shō-Chiku-Bai,以松代表特级、竹代表上级 、梅则代表普通等级,三种等级在价格、品质与份量上皆会有不同的呈现方式。」

For those of you who frequented long establishes shops, restaurants and inns of Japan, you’ll come across a type of ranking system known as “Shō-Chiku-Bai” (松竹梅), a three-part word that translates to mean “pine (松), bamboo (竹), plum (梅)”. Originated from the Chinese phrase “saikansanyū” which means the three fellows of winter that are strong enough to withstand the cold against cold, but in Japan, the phrase developed in its own unique way and in time came to describe symbols of good fortune. Generally speaking, their symbolism soon becomes a three-tier ordering system similar to gold/silver/bronze in sports or distinction/merit/pass in university. “Shō” is at the top or refers to deluxe, “Chiku” will be special, and “Bai” will be standard which also can be differentiated by their price, quality, and quantity of each serving as well.


那大人今日点选的寿司套餐 (松) Matsu Nigiri Set (RM56.4, 附可无限添加的味噌汤) 即是 Kokomo 的特级版料理,「大和民族对于米饭的口感向来极其重视,尤其是用来做寿司的米饭,更是讲究。大人这就来尝尝 Kokomo 日籍师傅们的好手艺!」

好的醋饭 (Shari) 不可捏握得太过紧实,微暖的温度、米粒间的粘合度与饱满度决定了入口的丰盈感,滋味良好的寿司必须是饭上的配料 (Neta) 与醋饭一起入食后,弹润的米粒再将食材的鲜味提升至极致,「在口中双双化开的那一刻最能体现寿司的美味。」

Personally, we prefer Nigiri over Sashimi because rice is a staple food to us while adding texture to the soft fish meat. The raw fish was fresh the moment we took a bite of it, with a pleasant hint of fishiness, and the thick slices had a firm bite. Our biggest gripe with sushi restaurants outside of Japan is that often the shari (sushi rice) is an afterthought. To us, sushi rice is what makes sushi sushi, while the toppings and things mixed in are almost secondary. So, for good sushi, we must have good sushi rice.

Although shari is the cheapest ingredient in sushi, it is arguably one of the most challenging aspects to get right. Cooking rice from scratch and seasoning it, all while trying to maintain a consistent temperature is a tall order. Producing a consistent product thus requires an incredibly high level of skill and attention. At Kokomo, the chefs focused on traditional technique and chose to season on how it best pairs with certain neta (toppings). Equally important, the shari at Kokomo is served at the “right” temperature at its best so that we can fully appreciate its flavours and the effort that went into preparing each and every nigiri.


Kokomo 的寿司饭以「希少糖」取代常用的砂糖,在讲究健康饮食的日本,选用「希少糖」不仅更健康,混合醋后捏握而成的寿司滋味更为清甜。「原来 Kokomo 的日籍老板在经营餐馆前,可是位米商啊!注重米质的他坚持旗下寿司餐馆得每周入货,绝不囤积米粮。」

「大人常见日籍友人用手吃寿司,一问之下才知这在日本是很普遍的传统吃法。」得到友人的亲身传授后,下回大伙儿吃寿司时,记得将 Neta 的部分翻转过来蘸点酱油或甜酱才是最正宗的尝鲜法则哦!「那大人我就先以这三文鱼与扇贝寿司练习一遍吧!」

At Kokomo, the sushi chefs use “rare sugar” in place of the refined sugar used in the seasoning of shari. Because rare sugar contains zero calories but maintains close to 70% the sweetness of regular sugar, this helps to prevent blood sugar rise after meals and fat build-up.

For best enjoyment, we highly recommend eating your nigiri by hand. If you opt to dip your sushi into soy sauce, please do it fish side first as the rice has been carefully seasoned and flavoured by the sushi chef, who has spent many years developing the recipe. In order not to disrespect the rice nor your chef, please dip your sushi fish side first and try to eat it in one bite.


对了,这儿就连芥末也超讲究的啊!「若是放在罐中任取,芥末将会失去原本的辣度。」为了保持芥末的香气,Kokomo 的芥末亦与寿司一样乘坐新干线从厨房里一碟一碟出发哦!「这儿也提供鲜芥末,呛辣依旧,唯滋味比混合后的芥末泥更鲜香。」

A dab of wasabi in between the rice and fish adds that extra zing and accentuates the delicate taste of fish. Actually, real and fresh wasabi is not spicy, and it’s more like the aroma of spiciness but without the pungent punch of the mustard used in the inferior substitutes. As wasabi is also considered difficult to grow and that makes it expensive, over 95% of wasabi served in sushi restaurants does not contain any real wasabi. Good news, as Kokomo do serve the real thing upon request. Promptly delivered by shinkansen when ordering our favourite sushi dishes, make sure only the fish side of the nigiri is dipped into the soy sauce.

容器にいれて置いておくと、わさび本来の辛さが飛んで風味が損なわれるので、わさびの香りを保つために、「ここも寿司」のわさびは、1人分ずつ厨房から新幹線に乗って登場します。 そしてうれしいお知らせが!「ここも寿司」では生わさびに近い上質なわさびも要望に応じて提供しています。

乌冬汤面和寿司午餐套餐 Udon To Sushi Lunch Set

「是讃岐乌冬耶! (Sanuki Udon)」来自乌冬之乡的雪白乌冬,以弹牙爽滑闻名,搭配清澈见底的入味汤头,沁人心脾。「关东区的乌冬以酱油为汤底,所以汤头呈褐色;而香川县的讃岐乌冬汤底则以清透著称。」日籍友人芳子告诉大人,乌冬面与辣椒粉的搭配,就像吃冷面时少不了芥末,两者是天生一对的味觉催化剂哦!

这一份乌冬汤面和寿司午餐套餐 Udon To Sushi Lunch Set (RM14.90) 大人真是点的对极了,以那么亲民的价格就能享用正宗的乌冬面,「天天来光顾都行!」

Sanuki Udon is a speciality and part of the food culture in the Kagawa region. Named after the previous name of the Kagawa prefecture and made from the “Sanukino Yume” wheat which is characterised by a chewy but al dente texture, Sanuki Udon is known for its long and thick white noodles with a silky consistency and toothsome bite. With a flavourful clear broth made from a type of dashi, the dish is best enjoyed with a dash of shichimi chilli powder. We just can’t go wrong with the Udon To Sushi Lunch Set to enjoy the best of both worlds.


猪排和盐烤鲭鱼午餐盘 Tonkatsu To Sabashioyaki Lunch Plate

大胃王们请注意了,猪排和盐烤鲭鱼午餐盘 Tonkatsu To Sabashioyaki Lunch Plate (RM19.90) 里的白米饭和味噌汤可无限添加!


With space to spare, we decided to indulge in the Tonkatsu To Sabashioyaki Lunch Plate. Being a regular dish we often cook and eat at home, we know a good grilled mackerel when we see and taste one. The fish was really meaty, and each bite was soft and moist with a strong fishy taste. Also generous in portion, the tonkatsu was crispy and incredibly juicy, topped with a runny egg that makes it all the more delicious. We bet you’ll be glad to know that the rice and miso soup are FREE-FLOW, as one bowl of rice isn’t enough to finish this pork loin 😋!


儿童寿司套餐 Kodomo Nigiri, Unagi Nigiri & Nama Salmon Nigiri

一众成人吃得如此精彩,一旁的孩子们也不能晾着吧?这一套五件的儿童寿司套餐 Kodomo Nigiri (RM9.10,仅限10岁以下孩童点选) ,有着孩子们最爱的美乃滋、玉米、鸡蛋、腐皮、鲔鱼和乳酸菌饮料组合,绝对能将他们哄得服服贴贴,「就请孩子们乖乖等待新干线将它们送达吧!」

大人我虽点了套餐,却还仍意犹未尽,大伙儿最爱的 Salmon (三文鱼)、Unagi (鳗鱼)、Buri (鰤鱼)、Maguro (鲔鱼)、Hotate (扇贝)、Tako (章鱼) 等皆从海外新鲜进口,其中鲔鱼更是在零下60度的低温冰鲜保存呢!「这儿的握寿司价格相当合理。」随即就加点了Unagi Nigiri (2pcs RM8) 与 Nama Salmon Nigiri (2pcs RM8) 来尝鲜,「嗖一声,寿司们原来已经到站了啊!」

Delicious kid-sized versions of Kokomo‘s signature sushi are also available for the little tots. Popular among kids, the Kodomo Nigiri (for kids below 10 years) consists of mayonnaise, corn, egg and beancurd skin served with Yakult, promptly delivered via the shinkansen much to the kiddos’ delight.

If you’re still feeling peckish, you could always order more nigiri by the ala carte. From salmon, unagi, buri, maguro, hotate to tako, almost everything is freshly imported and flown in bi-weekly from Japan, with storage below -60°C to ensure absolute freshness. Before we knew it, the Shinkansen has already pulled into the station with our Unagi Nigiri and Nama Salmon Nigiri within minutes of placing our order, talk about speed and efficiency huh!

サーモン、うなぎ、ブリ、マグロ、ホタテ、タコ、タコ など海外から新鮮な海産物が輸入され、中でもまぐろはマイナス60℃の低温に保たれています。

独特的天然环境,让日本人天生就对时令食材有着极敏锐的观察与分辨力,即便是每日接触的白米饭、 醋、酱油、芥末、食材、温度等,他们也有着最极致的认真追求。大人对于和食确实情有独钟,无论是市井或高档料理,极有仪式感的一句「いただきます」,更让我深深感受大和民族对待任何食物是何等慎重。对此,大人还蛮欣喜能时时在尝鲜中,透过美食了解异国文化,对所见所闻保持敏锐,不正是应付大时代变迁的不变法则吗?


Whether you visit Shikoku for the relaxed lifestyle, picturesque fishing villages or idyllic farms, be sure to sample its famous Sanuki Udon, citrus fruits and other delicious Shikoku food.

By the way, don’t be surprised if you spot a certain “Ken Watanabe” in town the next time you head to Kokomo. We are sure Takeshi-san probably wouldn’t mind, will he 🤣?

ちなみに、次回「ここも寿司」に行ったときに「渡辺謙」を見つけても驚かないでください。 西川さんはおそらく気づいていないと思いますが。

Kokomo Sushi Restaurant

📍 52 & 56 Jalan Permas 10/7, Bandar Baru Permas Jaya, 81750 Masai, Johor
📞 +607-386 3783
🕛 11.50am to 3.00pm & 6.00pm to 10.30pm (Mon – Fri); 11:30am to 10:30pm (Sat, Sun & Public Holidays).
📱 Kokomo Sushi Restaurant



杂志大人美食免责声明 DISCLAIMER
All content and ratings are based on MAGistrate’s collective opinions and experiences, which we hope will be informative and interesting for readers and perhaps, lead you to form your own opinions and preferences. While we make every effort to ensure that our information is current and correct, some items and prices may change without our knowledge.
MAGistrate 杂志大人

Corporate Trainer & Speaker

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