【私密推荐】打破传统界限,品一桌隐身於西餐馆中的暖心中式私房料理 Unexpected secret Asian cuisine inside… Eugene’s Grocery!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 刘大人]

对于手机根本就是被人类的美食给养得愈来愈大这话,大人我可是从没怀疑过。菜肴一上桌,主人们深怕爱机们饿坏了,赶紧打开按键喂食已成潜意识。

今午手机饱肚当儿 (大人当然也没在饿着),朋友们在另一端探口风,「你在哪家中餐馆?」啊,殊不知此时的我正在一家以西式料理闻名的馆子里享用着中式私房料理呢!

Unbeknownst to many, a “new” Chinese establishment has landed in the Taman Pelangi area, The first thing you will notice upon entering was that the interior is unlike any other Chinese restaurant you’ve stepped into, exuding a more contemporary vibe that’s more suited for a cafe or western restaurant. That being said, we liked the familiar surrounding and the exit from the customary prim and properly clothed table and suited service staff for this less formal setup.

Eugene’s Grocery 的西式料理有多让人回味,着实无需大人赘言。前几周才品尝了熟成牛肉,至今仍心心念念想再约一班同道中人砸重金大饱口福一番,料想不到短短数周他们家就出其不意推出了让人惊喜的中式料理!

Having tried and tasted the different wagyu products awhile back and still craving for this special beef, we are making plans to return to Eugene’s Grocery to try the other variants of wagyu when we stumbled upon something entirely unexpected, and an unlikely new face helming the same kitchen and whipping up new dishes that look distinctly… Asian!

👉 延伸阅读:肉食界的艺术品:让人一秒臣服的顶级和牛飨宴 Dry-aged Wagyu beef @ Eugene’s Grocery – the perfect steak is a matter of perfect timing!

👉 延伸阅读:唯有鲜美才是食材最好的调料,随大人来一趟「食欲满足,知识饱足」之旅!Eugene’s Grocery: Gourmet delicatessen for all your epicurean needs!

大人丈八金刚摸不着头脑,Eugene’s Grocery 里那坪数不大的半开放式厨房,竟能如此多变,「而且还不是一般常见的fusion料理,而是真实地端出滋味纯正的中西二式佳肴滋味。」由于中式料理的准备功夫较西餐更繁复,因此光顾前先预约才是上策啊!

Looks Asian, tastes Chinese; make no mistake as Eugene’s Grocery has no plans to mix up culinary styles and ingredients from different parts of the world in their cooking and pass them off as “fusion cooking”. Instead, the very same kitchen can now serve both authentic Asian and Western cuisine on demand, but owing to the intensive preparation required for the former, the new Asian menu will only be available for lunch and dinner, with prior reservation highly recommended to avoid disappointment!

大厨私房菜
Chef Roy’s Private Cuisine

大厨的私房料理方才粉墨登场,识途的寻味者们想必已在赶来的路上了吧!大人当然得把握良机趁着用餐后的时段到厨房串串门子,「与大厨密聊几分钟,胜过大人我苦读食谱几周啊!」

Eugene’s Grocery 的中餐掌勺者 Chef Roy 可是拥有扎扎实实25年厨龄的师傅呢!来自槟城的他在海外以精湛厨艺闯荡江湖多年后仍心系大马,归国后也不忘将各国菜系的特色巧添入其自创的中式私房料理内,身体力行以五味将地球各地的距离牵得更近一些。

Meet Chef Roy, the soft-spoken but highly talented Penangite with a zealous enthusiasm for cooking, While waiting for our friends who are on their way to join us, we wasted no time in chatting and clarifying some of our doubts on the different details of preparation, to which Chef Roy patiently explains the process and queries. With such a diverse range of culinary experiences over a 25-year career, we are getting ready for a private feast of epic proportions!

香鸡熏肉卷
Deep-fried Turkey Bacon Roll

开胃小菜肩负起开启这趟私房料理味蕾的重责!香鸡熏肉卷 (Deep-fried Turkey Bacon Roll, RM28/6pcs; RM15/3pcs) 蘸点了美乃滋后,那咸香的口感真的很难让人暂停咀嚼的动作!「喜欢馅料里包裹着微脆的葱花,原来貌不起眼的配角也能创造出不经意的味觉惊喜。」

First up, this Deep-fried Turkey Bacon Roll starter is a must-try for bacon lovers, with a filling of prawn encased in a rasher of bacon. Slightly salty with a tender interior, these small rolls of porky and seafood goodness left us wanting more. Additionally, the saltiness of the bacon blended well with the sweetness of the mayonnaise, giving the deep-fried roll an additional layer of flavour.

蟹肉蛋白炒饭
Fried Rice with Crab Meat and Egg White

这份蟹肉蛋白炒饭 (Fried Rice with Crab Meat and Egg White, RM28),掳获了一桌子的心,好!松!香!向来奉行低碳饮食的友人经不起诱惑尝了一口后说道,「低碳是明天的事了!」

份量足以让三至四人享用的蟹肉蛋白炒饭,湿润度完美、粒粒饱满的饭粒被蛋液紧紧裹着,送入口后葱香处处,让人好回味。饭后不禁询问大厨「一碟好吃的炒饭,诀窍到底在哪?」看官们瞧瞧,切丁的虾子、香菇、萝卜、带子、西兰花、葱花、炸蒜等,不就是咱们都会用的爽口食材?怎自己做就逊色一些呢…「蛋与饭下锅的次序、油量、火候都是关键。」

Presentation-wise, our second dish was very typical of the commonplace fried rice, but the perfectly fluffy grains of rice was fried with sufficient wok-fire fragrance which rightfully gets two thumbs-up from us! The Fried Rice with Crab Meat and Egg White was wonderfully smoky, non-greasy and tasty, not surprising considering the ingredients that went into this simple dish comprises diced prawn, mushroom, carrot, scallop, broccoli, spring onion and fried garlic. However, the real key to fried rice success, according to Chef Roy, comes from “how” we put it all together. What more can we ask for? More servings, please!

茅台吊烧鸡
Roasted Chicken with Maotai

用了茅台酒来腌制的烧鸡,肉眼就能看得见软嫩啊!这道以凤凰飞翔面貌上桌的茅台吊烧鸡  (Roasted Chicken with Maotai, RM28/Half; RM55/Whole)  与一般烧鸡口感大不同,「有着类似真空低温九分熟的柔嫩,毫无一丝干柴!」不得不说随附的辣酱,后劲颇足的辣度将肉质的美味又再释放出另一层次。

Our third dish may look like your typical roasted chicken, but it is far from ordinary. The Roasted Chicken with Maotai was incredibly succulent, moist and slightly savoury, almost as if it was cooked sous vide but actually infused with China’s national liquor – Maotai! What can we say? The use of wine in Chinese cooking is a real art, even with its very high alcohol contents (20% to 40%), that same intensity will give our food an extra kick of serious flavour layering that is hard to come by otherwise. We also loved the Thai-style chilli sauces to go accentuate the flavour of the chicken!

至尊鸳鸯豆腐
Braised Emperor Beancurd with Shimeiji Mushroom

Chef Roy 自制的至尊鸳鸯豆腐 (Braised Emperor Beancurd with Shimeiji Mushroom, RM18)满是蛋香啊!搭以日本鸿禧菇、小白菜等,好下饭。「高纤多醣体的鸿禧菇鲜甜甘脆,与菠菜豆腐好搭调。幸好大人有着蟹肉蛋白炒饭傍身,才不枉费这道家常菜。」

Reminiscent of a signature dish from another popular local Chinese restaurant, Chef Roy‘s homestyle Braised Emperor Beancurd with Shimeiji Mushroom is. The spinach beancurd was simply sublime, with the contrasting textures of the silky tofu and the light crispiness of the tofu skin especially enjoyable. Consisting of generous slices of shimeiji mushrooms and fresh greens, the result is an excellent balance of mouthfeel between the springiness of the vegetables and the smoothness of the tofu, which kept us reaching for more.

太极海鲜菠菜羹
Tai-ji Seafood Spinach Soup

大人在纸上用笔尚且勾勒不出一个完美的太极图形,更何况是在流质的汤里构图!所以当这道一上桌便引人瞩目的太极海鲜菠菜羹 (Tai-ji Seafood Spinach Soup, RM40),自是让大人对师傅的巧手心生佩服啊!

Finally, the long-awaited famous yin & yang, symbolic of balance and harmony, presented in the form of the impressive Tai-ji Seafood Spinach Soup is definitely the standout dish of the day. Come to think about it, many of us can’t even draw the Tai-ji symbol properly on paper, let alone portraying it on a bowl. 😂

Chef Roy 透露太极汤可是中国十大名菜之一,一般使用传统优茶珍品碧螺春入菜;而在Eugene’s Grocery 这儿,Chef Roy 的改良版则以菠菜汁、虾茸、鱼茸、干贝、马蹄粒、鲍鱼丝、蛋白等幻画出太极海鲜菠菜羹,阳中有阴,阴中有阳,巧妙展现出一股和谐的美。

Widely acknowledged as one of China’s top ten famous dishes, the soup was impressive, and not only because the fragrant stock featured hunks of flavorful abalone, prawns, scallops, swirls of egg white and leaves of baby spinach floating enticingly. It certainly takes years of training and some exceptional skills to expertly drift the fluffy clouds of white to one side of the serving bowl while the cool greens are collecting on the other making this a culinary work of art! Hats off to you, Chef Roy!

上菜时,师傅取太极拳论中「四两拨千斤」的精妙之意,顺着时针将汤汁搅匀了四回,「只能顺着转四回,才呈现出你中有我,我中有你的玄妙色泽。」随着勺子拨动而溢开的香气好浓郁,绵羹里还能尝到爽口的马蹄粒。太极羹这道料理在大马并不常见,Eugene’s Grocery 想必应属新山首创太极海鲜菠菜羹的餐厅,大人今日算是开了眼界。

Applying the Tai-ji’s principle of “leverage”, Chef Roy cooly swirled the soup in a circular, clockwise motion before scooping the content into our serving bowls. To preserve the pleasing emerald-like glow and hue, be sure not to stir the soup beyond four rounds to enjoy this delicacy at its best. While the soup was tasty and consistency was right, we felt it could do with a bit more flavour. Such a simple but nevertheless glorious soup, there’s no need for quick slurping since it managed to keep itself nicely warm! Having watched the dish prepared on screen from famous China’s culinary shows on numerous occasions, we are glad to finally savour this closer to home, probably the first of its kind in JB, some say Malaysia even!

黄金龙珠球
Deep-fried Golden Ball with Longan

以咸蛋包裹着龙眼的饭后甜点组合,套句友人的话,「乍听之下有点跳 Tone,尝起来滋味却相当好呢!」黄金龙珠球 (Deep-fried Golden Ball with Longan, RM6/3pcs; RM12/6pcs) 一送入口,马上就能感受何谓外脆内化,融合为一的味道微甜而不腻,想要品尝的看官们谨记需在20分钟前预订哦!

One does not have to be a salted egg lover to adore this dessert, and the Deep-fried Golden Ball with Longan were succulent and sufficiently crispy with salted egg sauce which was sweet and savoury. Considering that it was deep-fried, we thought the light and crisp outer shell was very well done with only a slight oily residue left behind. We really enjoyed this particular dish and would definitely come back for seconds, even though it comes across as something a bit more offbeat at first!

於10月6日粉墨登场的 Eugene’s Grocery 中式私房料理,每日上午11.30am至3pm (午餐时段);傍晚5pm至晚间10pm (晚餐时段) 诚意上桌。由于中式料理的准备功夫较西餐更繁复,因此光顾前先预约方为上策哦 😊!

With a very varied menu to suit all tastes, Eugene’s Grocery isn’t any ordinary gourmet grocer or Chinese restaurant for the matter. Trust us, you’re bound to find something that will whet your appetite, be it for a western steak or a hearty Chinese meal. Chef Roy has undoubtedly found his footing here, and we foresee this otherwise neighbourhood grocer seeing hungrier crowds.

Chef Roy‘s special cuisine menu is available daily from 11.30am to 3pm during lunch and 5pm to 10pm for dinner. As some of the dishes require advanced preparation, you are better off making prior reservations to ensure your favourite dishes can be served in good time! Bon appétit

 

Eugene’s Grocery

Address: No.14 & 16 Jalan Perang, Taman Pelangi, 80400 Johor Bahru, Johor
Reservation: +607-331 1353
Time: Wednesdays – Mondays, 11.30am – 10.00pm (Closed on Tuesdays)
NO PORK NO LARD

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