肉食界的艺术品:让人一秒臣服的顶级和牛飨宴 Dry-aged Wagyu beef @ Eugene’s Grocery – the perfect steak is a matter of perfect timing!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 刘大人]

https://www.facebook.com/MAGistrate.my/posts/2160500877601802

 

大人的好友曾说过,「在和牛面前,绝少有人能抗拒其美味。」此话不假,当一份只以简单调味的牛排端上桌后,肉眼所瞧见的嫩度,与毫无打算减速的扑鼻香气,无所不用其极地诱惑副交感神经释放唾液!而且,大人今日所尝的不仅是一般大伙儿最爱的鲜牛排,还有新山较鲜为人知的干式熟成牛排啊!阵容如此鼎盛,这下子可真难为了各位看官们的眼鼻舌啊!

The “steaks” are getting high now, as chefs worldwide are pushing the boundaries of beef by hanging meat for ever-increasing periods, and the resulting steaks are sensational. We are luckier than we know it, as we don’t really need to look very far. For gourmands seeking extraordinary culinary feasting, look no further than in the heart of Johor Bahru, amidst the familiar neighbourhood of Taman Pelangi.

以供给欧美顶级优质料理食材与酒饮配对服务 (需两周前预订),而让不少饕客趋之若鹜的Eugene’s Grocery,自2014年末即为城区揭开食欲之季,各式冰鲜羊排与牛排、波斯顿龙虾、美国生蚝、海鲜、香肠、意式面食、松露橄榄油、调料、甜点等纵身跃上餐桌的身影,让人屡屡回味的,终归食材们最原始的DNA莫属。

Since October 2014, Eugene’s Grocery has been offering premium gourmet merchandise sourced and selected from around the globe and showcases these through their in-store restaurant menu for patrons to enjoy. Apart from enjoying a leisurely brunch or semi fine-dining, ingredients from the day’s list, ranging from chilled meats, seafood, pasta, truffle oil and various seasonings are available for pick-up over the counter for those who wish to cook at home.

延伸阅读:唯有鲜美才是食材最好的调料,随大人来一趟「食欲满足,知识饱足」之旅!Eugene’s Grocery: Gourmet delicatessen for all your epicurean needs!

Eugene’s Grocery 所售卖的冰鲜肉食与海鲜 (Chilled) 与一般超市所能买到的冷藏食材 (Frozen) 最大的分别在于冰鲜肉 (一般约为攝氏零下0至4度) 不似冷藏肉需经长时间超低温冷藏 (近攝氏零下20度) 而流失汁液,整体肉质鲜嫩度高、异味少、较柔软及有弹性,只需以简单的调味如清蒸或香煎即可凸显食材原有鲜味;而冷藏肉类则因保存期长,在解冻后容易流失水分与营养,需以煎炸等重口味烹调法来掩盖冷冻味,食用时较易感受粗糙无味、口感干柴显老。

Freshness guarantees flavour and quality of our proteins, that’s why Eugene’s Grocery prides itself at importing and distributing only fresh and chilled meat and never frozen (below -20ºC), whether it is a perfect rack of lamb or an expertly aged piece of beef. The meat is rapidly chilled down (typically between 0 to -4ºC) at the peak of freshness where no water is absorbed to preserve the nutritive values and eating quality, so you get the natural flavour of the meat. While frozen meat will be cheaper than fresh and it will also last longer, there may be a loss of nutrients and quality due to the moisture lost through thawing and are mostly used for deep fried or heavily marinated dishes.

饕客除了可在 Eugene’s Grocery 选购自个儿偏爱的各国冰鲜肉类、海鲜食材外,也能现场请教店家如何辨识各部位、等级、烹调方式等,「有了专人指点如何挑选食材尚不足够,大人厨艺不精,当然得在现场请厨师出手将之诠释得色香味十足才不至于毁了食材。试想,在如此优雅的氛围里悠闲用餐,除了可随意点选不同的顶级肉食作为拼盘与友共享,还可依据食材搭配酒饮,怎不让人好生回味呢?」

What sets Eugene’s Grocery apart from the other grocers is the level of customisation provided in terms of meat preparation and marination, with broader and better range of services like meat portioning and marinating per our recipe. Every dish is painstakingly prepared with basic seasoning to retain its natural freshness and flavours. If we are not sure about the pairings, Edison and his team are on hand to offer their recommendations.

DRY AGER® 干式熟成柜
Dry-Aging fridge

这一回让大人齿颊留香的顶级美味食材-干式熟成牛排,就藏匿在这荣获2018年德国设计奖项号称全球首台全自动智能干式熟成柜中。DRY AGER® 拥有全球独家的专利湿度控制系统HUMICONTROL®,能让顶级品质的谷饲牛肉部位在恒定的湿度里熟成数十天,肉块肌纤维内的酵素酶将逐渐分解弱化难以咀嚼的缔结组织,致使烹煮后的肉质更加软嫩多汁;而恒温亦能使牛肉里的水分缓慢蒸发变得更为紧实,品尝时可感受类似蓝纹乳酪的登峰滋味。

At the core of all reputable steakhouses worth their meat, the secret to Eugene’s Grocery finest steaks can be found in this DRY AGER®, the 100% Made in Germany dry ageing fridge and proud winner of the internationally renowned iF Design Award 2018. Being one of the first of its kind that combines with an activated carbon filter with an active UVC-ventilated disinfection system, which sterilises the air in the fridge every minute, the portions of beef are stored in the cooler to elevate a more luxurious, softer and buttery texture. We were further impressed by the fact that the humidity can be accurately controlled and set anywhere in 0,1% steps between 60% and 90% even without a water supply, thanks to the integrated HUMICONTROL® system.

经熟成后的牛肉一般会缩小20%以上,熟成时间愈久,滋味愈浓郁,却也代表着需修清的棕红干硬表层愈多,而牛排可食用的部位愈小,价格当然亦随之高昂。「摆在餐厅里的干式熟成柜中,有着熟成了42天至60天的MB3-MB5等级和牛与澳洲安格斯牛肉供饕客们点选,当然亦可请教店内专业达人 Edison 为您推荐。」

For the uninitiated, the beef stays in dry ageing fridges for a minimum of 21 days and a maximum of 90, the time at which a steak sheds about 20% of its total weight and develops a robust, meaty flavour. The longer the meat is kept allows for the flavours to become more concentrated, resulting in softer and tender meat. In time, the meat darkens on the outside and forms a crust, similar to that of bread. Before it is cooked, this part is trimmed away, and the meat is separated from the bone or cut into steaks, and the dry-aged beef can be prepared in a frying pan or on the grill – just as a regular steak would. We couldn’t take our eyes off the Australian Wagyu and Black Angus beef aged between 42 to 60 days inside the fridge, waiting to be taken off the rack! 😉

此外,主人家亦为大人细心讲解由澳洲农业公司 (AACo) 所生产的各式和牛评级系统。AACo 创立於1824年,是澳洲最富经验与出色的和牛生产商之一,旗下牛肉品牌肉质软滑、滋味醇厚,屡获殊荣,「本地最常见的等级通常介于4-6;在日本,饕客们甚至可尝至等级12的极品牛肉。」

For our benefit, we were given additional insights into the grading system by Australian Agricultural Company (AACo), Australia’s largest integrated cattle and beef producer. Established in 1824, AACo’s Wagyu cattle are born and raised in a naturally clean and safe environment, and the integrity of the product can be attributed to AAco‘s unique Wagyu grading system where each of the prime cuts is assessed using the Japanese standards for marbling. A marbling grade ranging from 4-6 is the most popular range of wagyu and an affordable product for everyday use in bistros, cafes and restaurants, while we can also expect the absolute best quality with marbling scores of 9+ especially in Japan, or more upmarket, fine dining restaurants.

They don’t call wagyu the “Rolls Royce” of beef for no reason, and Eugene’s Grocery wanted diners to try the variants of wagyu so that we can compare the nuanced tastes side by side.

60天澳洲干式熟成肋眼牛排 (MB4-MB5)
60-day Dry Aged Australian Wagyu Ribeye

「真能尝出非常浓郁的特殊肉香!」这一份以五分熟姿态率先上桌的60天澳洲干式熟成肋眼牛排 (MB4-MB5, 60-day Dry Aged Australian Wagyu Ribeye, RM130/100gm, ) ,皮衣虽略呈深棕色,却完美保留嫩中带有嚼劲的口感,在毫无施加任何调味的状态下竟让人入口后眼前一亮,与平日的鲜牛肉风味截然不同,可见干式熟成「日久有功啊!」

大人小分享】点选了牛排重量 (min. order 200gm) 与部位后,只需额外添付RM30的烹煮费用,即可享用随牛排上桌的薯泥、当季食蔬沙拉与蘑菇浓汤。

Richly flavoured even with ZERO seasoning, the boneless Australian Wagyu Ribeye is dry-aged for a minimum of 28 days, leaving it well-marbled and its distinctive flavour comes from the decent amount of fat spread throughout the meat, making this signature cut an excellent choice. It was tasty enough and could stand on its own without the flavour of the sauces. Get up to 60 like the one we had or even 90 days of dry-ageing and, well, we’re talking ribeye royalty!

PS: The steaks which are a minimum of 200gm per cut, are grilled over a charcoal fire for that extra flavour and aroma and comes with fresh salad and mushroom soup, all for an additional RM30!

澳洲和牛肋眼牛排 (MB3-MB5)
Chilled Australian Wagyu Ribeye

「瞧瞧那鲜嫩欲滴的粉红肉质,多汁极了!」紧接着上桌的这份澳洲和牛肋眼牛排 (MB3-MB5, Chilled Australian Wagyu Ribeye, 九月促销价格 RM45/100gm) ,同是牛肋眼,大人决定让它以三分熟的姿态现身,尝尝不同的口感。毫无过于花俏的调味,童叟无欺诱引出最真实的和牛原味,拗不过这视、嗅、味觉所带来的极致挑衅,大人我决定叉起这一片片的幸福滋润舌尖!「好康不藏私,这个九月於Eugene’s Grocery享用此澳洲和牛将可享有RM45/100gm的优惠价噢!」

For our next serving, we had the same beef (Chilled Australian Wagyu Ribeye), minus the dry ageing with a marbling score of three to five (MB3-MB5). With a nice charred finish from the wood-fired grill, yet still retaining pockets of moisture and juiciness in the meat, this non-aged steak cooked medium rare had a perfect combination of marbling fats with flavour, while being quite evenly cooked throughout as seen from the pinkness. Again, there’s no need to sprinkle any salt or pepper to counter the taste or gaminess.

Enjoy premium Australian Wagyu beef for RM45 per 100gm from 7-30 September 2018!

42天干式熟成日本和牛西冷牛扒 (MB12)
42-day Dry Aged Japanese Hokkaido Wagyu A5 Striploin

品尝了两道澳洲和牛的醇厚滋味后,咱们的好心情指数早已破百。殊不知这来自日本北海道的42天干式熟成日本和牛西冷牛扒 (MB12, 42-day Dry Aged Japanese Hokkaido Wagyu A5 Striploin, RM208/100gm) 更是完美诠释了何谓「锦上添花」啊!那与肉质结合地天衣无缝的即溶油花让大伙儿过足了「齿颊留香」的瘾啊!此刻,大人完全领悟好友所说的箴言:「在和牛面前,绝少有人能抗拒其美味。」

We also had the 42-day Dry Aged Japanese Hokkaido Wagyu A5 Striploin which turned out unanimously to be our favourite among the three. A notable difference to the meat is its soft texture, intense aroma and tasty meat compared to other steaks. Interestingly, the meat is not marinated before it is placed in the cooler so we could consume its pure flavours after the ageing process. Its marble score of 12 also makes it one of the pricier options on the menu, but the flavourful meat makes it worthwhile.

What can we say? There is just nothing like dry-aged beef, which adds unmatched flavour and tenderness that marinating just can’t touch!

上等和牛涮涮锅双人套餐
Wagyu Set Shabu Shabu For 2

大人平素就极爱品尝火锅,一周至少得聚上一回打打牙祭,没想到原来 Eugene’s Grocery 近日亦悄悄推出了让人无法回绝的惊喜 - 上等和牛涮涮锅双人套餐 (Wagyu Set Shabu Shabu, RM120 for 2 Pax)!「全天候皆可点选噢!亦可额外付费增点食材添加风味。」

If you love beef and also hotpot like us, then this Wagyu Set Shabu Shabu extravaganza is for you. Unlike our earlier western meal presentation, shabu-shabu offers a simple, social and sumptuous feast for the same meat, with a fun, social element to it and even easier to eat. Continuing our wagyu theme, this decent set for two is available all day and comes with a right combination of seafood, vegetables and chilled Australian beef (MB3-MB5)!

将盘中的各式海鲜与菌菇食蔬摆入了熬煮多时的鸡肉上汤后,升级后的鲜甜有多豪奢可想而知。瞧瞧这滚烫的靓丽汤头,刚刚的素颜如今华丽大变身,每一口皆毫不欺场,「是时候请和牛登场了!」

We were impatient to get started, so we dumped everything into the broth. Once the soup came to a rolling boil, we wasted no time in picking up our prized wagyu beef for that one defining moment!

令人叹服的精巧刀功!这薄如蝉翼的透光和牛肉片,红白相间肌理分明,「用筷子卷起的幸福!毫米肉片微微涮了数秒后由红转褐,恰恰好的滑嫩。别忘了裹上一层蛋液,啊!好丰美的人间滋味!」

Everyone was eagerly anticipating the moment when we could watch the meat collapse into the boiling broth as we pushed it. Our advice is to swish it around in the pot for a few seconds to soak up the flavours of the broth quickly as the meat’s sliced thinly, so it cooks pretty quickly. For better indulgence, try dipping the cooked beef into the beaten egg mixture and enjoy the taste. Incredibly tender and the fatty bits melted as we chewed, what more can we say? Oishiiok!

欢享了一下午的销魂滋味,大人迫不及待将美食以视像传递於至亲的群聊中,纷至沓来的踊跃反响让大人不得不立即询问店家该如何享有更诱人的优惠啊!「原来生日可享有15%的折扣噢!欲在餐厅内举办私宴或商务洽谈,亦可预订可容16-20人的私人包厢,周日消费只需达RM1500/周末RM2000便可,需提早预约。」

大人小分享Eugene’s Grocery 也会不定期在自家脸书公告优惠促销与当月精选料理,不想错过的饕客们记得锁定追踪。

We have tried and tasted the different wagyu products, and the tenderness is out of this world! But hey, try it for yourself! We reckon this special beef is ideal for merrymaking, or every time we get the craving for something spectacular, so make sure you celebrate at Eugene’s Grocery and enjoy 15% off on your birthday treats. For a more intimate affair, there is a private room within the restaurant for accommodating between 16-20 pax, affording your guests the exclusivity for special occasions, with a minimum spend of RM1500 on weekdays or RM2,000 on weekends.

PS: Follow Eugene’s Grocery on Facebook for regular promotion and monthly specials. Dining reservations are highly recommended on weekends to avoid disappointment

Eugene’s Grocery

Address: No.14 & 16 Jalan Perang, Taman Pelangi, 80400 Johor Bahru, Johor
Reservation: +607-331 1353
Time: Wednesdays – Mondays, 11.30am – 10.00pm (Closed on Tuesdays)
NO PORK NO LARD

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