打开美食任意门,“经典”娘惹美食在眼前 Classic Nyonya – a delicious mashup of Malay and Chinese culinary traditions!

[编辑 Editor 吕大人   英译 Translator 刘大人   摄影 Photographer 黄大人]

[大人爱分享] 周末不知该到哪儿用餐吗?#7月30日 (星期日) #中午12点至晚上9点 位于五福城的娘惹餐馆 Classic Nyonya 有义卖活动哦!#大人也爱吃 #高貳理叁校外義賣Still to plan for your…

Posted by MAGistrate 杂志大人 on 29hb Julai 2017

 

大人心想,融合中国与马来菜系的娘惹菜会不会是历史最悠久的 fusion 菜系呢?六百多年前郑和下西洋时,除了促成许多中马佳偶联姻外 (婚后所生的后代男生统称 峇峇女生为娘惹,也称土生华人,主要分布于马六甲、槟城与新加坡) ,也衍生出了由两种菜系所合并而成的娘惹菜系,中式烹调法遇上马来传统香料,注定是一场浪漫的味觉传承。

大人每回从新山到马六甲或槟城都必尝一顿丰富的娘惹菜才算 “不虚此行” ,奈何公务缠身许久未曾踏足边境,看官们可否明白那种疯狂思念200公里外某种美食滋味的感觉呢?不禁想问:「在新山,想品尝经典美味的娘惹菜真的那么难吗?」

Nyonya food is in a distinctive gastronomic realm on its own – possibly the oldest fusion cuisine with particular nuances of tastes and flavours since the 15th and 16th-century, when the Chinese immigrants settled down in Melaka and adopted aspects of the local culture. Their descendants, referred to as Peranakans (“Baba” refers to Peranakan men, “Nonya” to Peranakan women), not only developed its unique language, but also created their distinctive culture and cuisine – a delicious mashup of Malay and Chinese culinary traditions.

Melaka has long been the number one place to go for good Nyonya food, and what better way to relive and experience the Old World charm than through its absolutely irresistible cuisine. However the 3-hour journey by car just to satisfy our regular craving for good Nyonya food is proving to be a headache, so we have been putting it off until we stumbled upon an unpretentious eatery which bears a striking resemblance in both Peranakan name and menu style, right in the heartland suburbs of Taman Sutera Utama.

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「踏破铁鞋无觅处,得来全不费功夫」这句话今天真的派上用场啦!大人某日途经五福城商业区,竟然发现有家名为「经典」的娘惹餐馆!二话不说当然得试试这让大人魂牵梦萦的娘惹滋味啊!

负责人 Ms Pang 告知餐馆刚於数周前 (2016年8月) 才开始营业,大人我只能直呼好幸运!在获悉「经典」传统马六甲娘惹餐 (位于新山人颇熟悉的五福北京楼斜对面) 厨房里的美味秘方源自於马六甲后,大人毫不犹豫选了几道他们家较特别的菜肴来品尝,好期待!

大人颇为认同一句话,娘惹菜好不好吃真的无法蒙骗得了食家们的味蕾,因为每道佳肴工序繁琐,材料下得不足是难以用一般酱料“修复”味道的啊~ 小葱头、蒜头、姜、辣椒、香茅、香花菜、薄荷叶、亚参膏、峇拉煎、班兰叶等等等无法一一列举,没有丝毫经验与功夫,还真无法恰如其分地拿捏准确。

Right across the street from Restoran Pekin Sutera is lies a modest eatery that isn’t at all extravagant and felt more home-like instead of a heavily-decorated restaurant – like stepping into a friendly neighbour’s home for some delicious food, and dishes served piping hot from the kitchen. Helmed by a native chef from Melaka with secret home-cooked recipes passed down for generations, we are certainly in for some Classic Nyonya (aptly named for a restaurant that says it all) treats that have been long overdue.

According to Ms Pang, Nyonya cooking is not only about the blending of spices but also the long marinating of meats and seafood. Fresh herbs such as lemongrass, lengkuas and kunyit are pounded by hand using a granite mortar & pestle, while the chillies, candlenuts, shallots and belacan are a must in most Nyonya dishes. Aromatic leaves such as peppermint, pandan, daun salam and daun kunyit further add ‘Nyonya zest’ to their wonderful cookery.

沙葛片 Sengkuang

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真的别小觑这看似普通的沙葛片 (Sengkuang, RM5.10/5片), 抹上虾酱与花生碎后可是极品啊!咸香脆集於一身,饭前生津开胃或饭后当小点心皆可。好吃的沙葛片除了口感甜、爽脆外,水分含量足够也是重点,对于生活在终年是夏的马来西亚人来说,多吃沙葛还能去热散火噢 (大人即兴表演连吞两片)!

Sengkuang might not be your typical starter for most Peranakan meals, but the crispy slices were incredibly juicy and refreshing, a cooling appetiser in this somewhat erratic weather that taste even better when topped with the dark, sticky, sweet-yet-savory dressing, finished with crushed peanuts that leave us asking for more.

参峇峇拉煎清蒸羊角豆
Steamed Lady Fingers with Dry Sambal Belacan

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今天大人就不点平时常吃的蕹菜了,改点这道能凸显店家参峇峇拉煎真实风味的清蒸羊角豆 (Steamed Lady Fingers with Dry Sambal Belacan, RM12.60)。新鲜的羊角豆 (又名秋葵)口感绝对无法欺骗看官们的味蕾,咬下后的清甜滑润和店家秘制的参峇峇拉煎,香咸辣脆甜正是大人追求的青蔬滋味。难怪有人封营养成分极高的羊角豆为“绿色人参”,看来大人得多吃多吃啊!

A welcome change from our usual Kangkong Belacan, we were inclined to try something different, and the Steamed Lady Fingers with Dry Sambal Belacan had left us salivating for more. For sambal belacan lovers, all it takes is a dollop of this chilli paste to make even the simplest meal appetising, and this no-frills fare certainly ranks high on our list.

酸菜鸭汤
Itik Tim Soup

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来到娘惹餐厅怎能不点酸菜鸭汤 (Itik Tim Soup, RM24.10) 啊?鸭肉独有的香味与重口味的酸菜经过长时间熬煮,「真的好有“家”的味道啊!」还记得奶奶说:饭前喝汤,胜过药方酸酸咸咸地异常润肺开胃,大人真的好喜欢。

The Itik Tim Soup (duck and salted vegetable soup) is a perfect rainy weather dish anytime, especially served with a steaming bowl of rice. The simple but comforting soup, which consists of salted vegetables, tomatoes, tamarind juice and asam gelugor – a mixture of tangy and savoury flavours infused into tender duck meat that reminded us of grandma’s rendition of as this “sick man’s dish”. In fact, this soup was so appetising and wholesome that the more we drank, the more hungry we were, which serves us well for the other dishes that were coming fast and furious (slurp)!

黑果焖鸡
Ayam Buah Keluak

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黑果焖鸡 (Ayam Buah Keluak, RM24.10), 懂得品尝正宗娘惹菜肴的看官们应该不会错过这道极其费工的好味道!大人必须说黑果焖鸡的滋味非常难以形容,因为一般大马所能尝到的中餐、马来餐或印度餐,皆无使用黑果作为调料,只有土生华人才懂得烹调这道世代相传的料理啊!首先清理由印尼入口的黑果,经人工捣碎后就得用上近一天的时间炒制再浸泡数天后,挖出黑色果肉与香料匀和成酱,后再釀回果壳里与鸡腿、各式香料等焖煮至汤汁收干 (如图),工序繁琐,值得好好享用。大人觉得黑果的味道酸酸咸咸的,有点像豆豉,搭上鲜嫩的鸡腿肉,「好特别的味道!又多了一道口袋娘惹美食!」

Arguably one of the most iconic Nyonya dishes, the Ayam Buah Keluak (Chicken stewed with buah keluak) will no doubt strike a chord with anyone who grew up in a Peranakan household. The black tint in this chicken dish comes from the earthy Indonesian black nut (Pangium edule), whose tedious cooking process include soaking and fermenting the bitter, poisonous fruit to make it edible. It’s then ground into a complex rempah paste of candlenuts, turmeric, galangal, lemongrass, belacan and dried chilli, and made into a stew with assam paste juice and shrimp-stuffed buah keluak. Not the most typical of ingredients found in almost all other cuisines, this dish turned out to be more succulent and flavourful than we had first imagined, thumbs up!

干咖喱羊肉
Mutton Curry

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大人近来吃羊肉的机率比起数年前真是高出许多,可见很多本地餐馆开始把可益气补虚的羊肉列入餐谱。以娘惹香料烹煮的干咖喱羊肉 (Mutton Curry, RM26.20大人倒是首次尝鲜,「没有羊膻味!而且很香,咖喱的稠度恰到好处!」这下子不添饭不行了,无羊不欢的羊肉迷们千万别错过!

Not a fan of mutton for its perceived wild gamey flavour and rough meat texture, the Mutton Curry was surprisingly quite delicious and that somehow changed our mind. With the rempah sauce which is prepared using fresh ingredients and manually blended every day, the mutton is slow cooked to perfection, resulting in fork-tender meat that has been thoroughly infused with the rich flavour of the spices. A must-try even for the uninitiated!

娘惹亚叁虾
Fried Asam Prawn

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参峇虾或亚参鱼吃多了,当然得点些特别的来与看官们分享。大人今天就点娘惹亚参虾 (Fried Asam Prawn, RM29.40) 吧!这虾子好大一只,亚参酸酸的口感特别引人开胃,大人不晓得今天得添多少饭才行啊~ 「虾头部位的酸酱也别放过!」

The Fried Asam Prawn here reminded us of the version by our close associate back in Melaka, prepared just the way her mom would, retaining the sweetness of tiger prawns while infusing the dish with just the right amount of dark soya sauce and assam. We literally polish the entire plate, including the source, much to Ms Pang’s surprise and delight.

招牌辣椒酥炸金目鲈
Chili Garam Fish

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鸡、鸭、羊、虾、菜都点了,怎能少了鱼?大人翻阅餐谱时就对其一见钟情啦!铺满店家特制娘惹辣椒的酥炸金目鲈 (Chili Garam Fish, 也可选红鱼,时价),「外脆内嫩啊!记得一定得挤酸柑噢!」这辣椒最独特之处就是后劲十足,嗜辣的看官们必点啊!简直好吃得大人还想呼叫「可以再添辣椒吗?」

No meal is complete without this seafood staple, and our choice of Chili Garam Fish is probably one of our most rewarding choice ever. The fresh sea bass is lightly seasoned and deep fried to crisp while the special fresh grind chilli paste is spread on top, which goes hand-in-hand to give it refreshing and tongue-awakening punch. Unanimously our overwhelming favourite dish of the day, we could even polish off two bowls of steamed rice just with it alone!

娘惹煎蕊
Chendol

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来吃娘惹佳肴,不点煎蕊 (Chendol, RM5.80) 简直如入宝山空手而回!大人最爱马六甲椰糖 (Gula Melaka) 的焦香味了,「比例绝佳的椰糖与椰浆就是煎蕊好不好吃的最大关键,这真的好好吃啊!还能解辣!」煎蕊与红豆不会过甜,配上绵密的白冰冰,口感极佳!没问题!大人可以连喝两碗!

The Chendol is not just delightful to look at, with its myriad of colours and of course delectable to have, we were blown away by how deeply rich and earthy the gula Melaka was. Sweet with the faintest tinge of bitterness, each spoonful leaves behind a lingering sweetness and a creamy aftertaste from the fresh coconut milk. The green cendol strips were soft, with a nice, springy chew, making this a worthy way to cool down from the sweltering heat, and the perfect palette cleanser from the sambal belacan in between dishes too.

沙谷米椰糖
Sago Gula Melaka

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另一道娘惹甜品沙谷米椰糖 (Sago Gula Melaka, RM4.80) 也是大人的至爱!类似半透明珍珠的沙谷米本身其实没有味道,但当搭上万人迷马六甲椰糖与椰浆时,立即成了人见人爱的饭后甜点。大人特别喜爱这里的椰糖比例,「怎么办?简直停不了口!」

In need for more cooling down from the somewhat erratic weather of late, your must go for the Sago Gula Melaka for some instant relief, incidentally another of our Peranakan favourite. The mixture of the chewy sago pearls with the rich and decadent santan, alongside the aromatic and gooey gula melaka syrup is simply ethereal – surely a great combination which most dessert aficionados would approve, and a satisfying way to end a delicious meal here.

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奈何大人只有一个胃,餐谱上好多娘惹佳肴拼命呼唤大人「选我!选我!」,以上几道雀屏中选的佳丽们,不好意思是佳肴们… 你们表现得太好啦,整体美食的辣度适中,香料毫不手软下得够足,大人的味蕾陷入热恋中 😀

Frankly speaking, everything on the menu is worth our time (and tummy space), but we could only feel apologetic that these are as much as we could bring you. A gentle word of caution though, Nyonya food is known to be spicy, so be prepared to sweat it out!

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大人其实刚有把几道这回未选上的偷偷记录起来,例如据闻吃了会辣得猛掉泪、嘴巴会肿得很性感 (噢?) 的辣椒臭豆煎鱼 (Chili Petai Fish, RM15.70)、娘惹釀鱼 (Nyonya Stuffed Fish, RM18.90) 、娘惹豆酱焖鸡 (Chicken Pong Teh, RM18.90)、娘惹杂菜 (Nyonya Chap Chai, RM14.70)等,不能再说了,大人已陷入崩溃边缘 … 来人们你们可是省下了200公里的脚程啊!话不多说快打开眼前这道娘惹美食任意门,大人要立即点菜啦~

As you can probably imagine, Peranakan cuisine goes way beyond what is on our table, and any of these Classic Nyonya dishes from Chili Petai Fish, Nyonya Stuffed Fish, Chicken Pong Teh or Nyonya Chap Chai would be more than sufficient to settle your regular Nyonya fix, without having to call upon the “dokodemo door” or braving the 200-km journey by car from now on!

 

Classic Nyonya Restaurant

No.90, Jalan Sutera Tanjung 8/4, Taman Sutera Utama, 81300 Skudai, Johor Bahru, Johor.

Time: Tue – Sun : 11am – 10pm (Off every Monday)
Reservation: +607-550 6767
Email: classicnyonya@gmail.com
NO PORK, NO LARD

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结案陈词 Verdict
  • 环境 Ambience
    7
  • 价格 Price
    6
  • 食物选择 Variety
    7
  • 服务态度 Service
    7
  • 味道点评 Taste
    7
The Good
The Bad
0
6.810
MAGistrate 杂志大人

Creative Director & Chief Chinese Editor

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